Replacing Drive Shaft Uni Joints.
Discussion
I started a new thread to avoid side tracking the 'gearbox oil change' thread.
Firstly, thanks to all who advised the change of both uni joints on the drive shaft. This I believe is a good idea and is exactly what I'm about to do. I have spoken to the mechanic doing the job and he says the drive shaft will be removed, so, yes it would be cost effective to replace both on that side. It has also been brought to my attention that the uni joints on the 400SE is slightly bigger than the 350 series and that they are not one and the same as I originally thought. I have ordered a pair and will be changing both on that side. The extra bits and pieces that are required for the job are apparently included in the kit. If anyone else can think of any more do's and dont's, I'd be pleased to hear it. Hopefully, once the parts are delivered to me, my mechanic will be fitting them sometime next week. I will post again here with the outcome.
Tony. TCB.
Firstly, thanks to all who advised the change of both uni joints on the drive shaft. This I believe is a good idea and is exactly what I'm about to do. I have spoken to the mechanic doing the job and he says the drive shaft will be removed, so, yes it would be cost effective to replace both on that side. It has also been brought to my attention that the uni joints on the 400SE is slightly bigger than the 350 series and that they are not one and the same as I originally thought. I have ordered a pair and will be changing both on that side. The extra bits and pieces that are required for the job are apparently included in the kit. If anyone else can think of any more do's and dont's, I'd be pleased to hear it. Hopefully, once the parts are delivered to me, my mechanic will be fitting them sometime next week. I will post again here with the outcome.
Tony. TCB.
Tony, the joints you need for the 400 are GKN (old Hardy Spicer) HS179 which are now part 18200 (30.2mm x 106.3mm). Definitely get the ones with lube nipples, but not the heavy duty versions are I believe they are very difficult to fit due to bulkier size). You shouldn't use nylocs on the flanges for heat reasons. Cant remember the exact name of the nuts but they wont undo themselves.I assume you know about the torque value for the hub nut. Pinning is recommended, but avoid re-drilling the shaft - just re-drill the nut to align with the existing holes (assuming there are some). Slackening the 2 lower wishbone nuts / bolts will enable the hub to be rotated (after disconnecting the tie bar from the hub and swinging it out of the way) which allows the shaft to be removed. Easiest to slacken the hub nut whilst the vehicle is on the ground whilst footbrake is applied. Re-tighten all suspension bolts once the car is back on the ground at normal ride height.
Edited by Number 7 on Friday 29th May 12:22
Number 7 said:
You shouldn't use nylocs on the flanges for heat reasons. Cant remember the exact name of the nuts but they wont undo themselves.
Indeed, although it seems TVR did 
The proper ones are 'stiff nuts', aka Philidas nuts. IIRC they're 7/16".
The heavy duty UJs have deeper cups (the needle rollers are longer, more contact area to spread the load) so to fit into the same space the cruciform is a bit smaller overall.
Wedg1e said:
Number 7 said:
You shouldn't use nylocs on the flanges for heat reasons. Cant remember the exact name of the nuts but they wont undo themselves.
Indeed, although it seems TVR did The proper ones are 'stiff nuts', aka Philidas nuts. IIRC they're 7/16".
The heavy duty UJs have deeper cups (the needle rollers are longer, more contact area to spread the load) so to fit into the same space the cruciform is a bit smaller overall.
While all metal is the way to go I personally doubt the rear brakes get hot enough to melt nylon unless you've got a bear on your tail or your name's Steve Heath!
btw Hi all
Been away from the forum for a while... and starting to think about getting the beast back on the road for summer. wootLeo
leorest said:
.. you sure that's not a symptom of the way you drive?
Yep, sorry, I don't push the wedge hard. The back brakes had a recurrent series of jams, on two occasions whilst dropping down the steepest hills on the Yorkshire Moors.After the first incident I rebuilt the calipers but it happened again, precipitating the full rear-end rebuild.
So far, touching plenty of wood, the brakes seem fine.
As well as replacing the lock nuts on the flange, I've been advised to change the hub seal, so first thing tomorrow I'll be ordering those. I need to have everything ready for the mechanic if this job is to be done properly. New uni joints, nuts and hub oil seal. Have I left anything out to repair one side?
PS. does anyone know if the lock nuts are 7/16" unf or unc.
Tony.TCB.
PS. does anyone know if the lock nuts are 7/16" unf or unc.
Tony.TCB.
ElvisWedgely said:
Have I left anything out to repair one side?
Make sure the output flange studs have good threads or your nice new nuts won't have anything to bite on.If they need changing, they're special bolts rather than studs, available from Jaguar bbut you'd better be sitting down when they tell you how much... and half the diff has to come apart to change them, by which time you may as well change the diff oil seals as well...
Wedg1e said:
Make sure the output flange studs have good threads or your nice new nuts won't have anything to bite on.
If they need changing, they're special bolts rather than studs, available from Jaguar bbut you'd better be sitting down when they tell you how much... and half the diff has to come apart to change them, by which time you may as well change the diff oil seals as well...
OK. Thanks for all the info. I'll keep all that in mind should the worst happen. I'll be posting again once the job is completed, keeping the fingers crossed.If they need changing, they're special bolts rather than studs, available from Jaguar bbut you'd better be sitting down when they tell you how much... and half the diff has to come apart to change them, by which time you may as well change the diff oil seals as well...
Tony. TCB.
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