rear end

[barrington]

just got drivers side rear suspension off and there are 3 spacers above the spring but not on passenger side any idear why? also the end of the drive shaft looks like swiss cheese were pins have been fitted does anyone now if this is of a ford or jag ?can anyone help me with this cheers

[dukeenfield]

Hi,I got spacers on the p/s spring,don't why,thinks the rear axle is xj6 Jaguar and shafts

[350matt]

the diff is jag XJ6 or XJS, and the shafts are TVR specials made up with MkII ford granada hubs and bearings, I'd reccommend Dave Mac Propshafts in coventry if you need driveshaft bits
Matt

[SEvans]

The drive shafts on my car have been drilled for split pins. Not a bad idea the first time, but if you keep drilling new holes then it does create a bit of a problem. It is possible to line up the hole in the shaft, mark the new nut and drill it so the holes line up. The original drive shafts were not drilled they just had the locknut and some thread lock. Having seen a few cars with no N/S wheel it seems something more may be required..... It's the N/S one you need to be more careful with as this is the one that is trying to undo the nut, unfortunately all the driveshaft's are the same, and not left or right handed.

[barrington]

the ends of both shafts have been drilled 4 times on drivers side 3 on passenger side also drivers side bearing fellapart (s--t) thanks for your help chaps

[jchase]

As for springs, the drivers one gets more of a beating, so tends to shorten quicker than the right. I had spacers on my 280 on the drivers side. When I replaced the springs I noticed it [the O/S] was a bit shorter than the N/S one, (and they both had a slight bend in them). New springs made a huge difference to that car, and was only about £50 to do !

IMHO, the O/S axle nut does not need a locking pin, as the wheel will tend to tighten the nut as you go forward. The only problem is the N/S one, where the wheel tends to loosen the nut. Loctite blue I think will have a higher shear strength than a 2mm pin, anything stronger and you won't get the nut off - ever.

-Jim

[dexy]

yeah my driveshafts were drilled five times on one side
and three on the other ,the more holes you have weakens the shaft which might cause the thing to snap,
i took mine to R.T Racing at Sheffield who refurbished both drive shafts (welded up all holes and rethreaded the shafts)so now i have the drive shafts with no holes in all i do now is just tighten the nut up put plenty of lock tight on it and keep checking the nut for tightness every so often to make sure the wheels dnt fall off.
while your there i would replace both wheel bearings
cheers neil

[19560]

dexy said:

my driveshafts were drilled five times on one side and three on the other ,the more holes you have weakens the shaft which might cause the thing to snap.

These stories are terrible. If the hole doesn't line up for the split pin then refit the nut with a shim. Iknow that it's a pain at the time but it's safe.

[dickymint]

Cant it be wire-locked or tab-washered somehow?
(he says not haveing seen the job) anybody got a piccy they could post?

[taz turbo]

Sorry to hear you have troubles with your rear end!!!

I went for castelated (check my Sp) nuts on my driveshafts, they have worked a treat, 12 years since I fitted them still no problems. And only one split pin hole in the drive shaft.

Regards to all,

Chris.

[barrington]

ive been cleaning the rear wishbones and found that the adjuster part has been brazed between the threaded part and tube for the bush on both sides is this normal ?