OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE - SPANNER SIZE
Discussion
I changed mine recently but can't remember the size. I know I used my normal socket set to take it apart, using the universal joint. It was a pain trying to turn the socket and push it in with enough pressure to engage the threads. I had to pack out the socket to ensure that the nut was as far forward in the socket as possible. I remember getting "shaky arms" and the language was not suitable for the kids until it eventually tightened up.
Yes i know what you mean, I am trying to remove the valve in situ and there isn't enough room to get a socket on it. Also, without a ramp, I am not confident I can measure the bolt head accurately enough.However, if I know whether it is metric or or not, I can get a couple of spanners to cover the range. Cheers for the response anyway guys.
Think it is metric and a standard spanner set should cover it.
If you plan to do more spannering yourself it is always useful to get a full set anyway, as well as a few axle stands, hydraulic jack etc, if you haven't those yet. Easy for me to say as have all the stuff, including a garage so can do all the work myself.... Even then sometimes using an adjustable wrench, which I hate to use as well as open-end spanners.
Rob
If you plan to do more spannering yourself it is always useful to get a full set anyway, as well as a few axle stands, hydraulic jack etc, if you haven't those yet. Easy for me to say as have all the stuff, including a garage so can do all the work myself.... Even then sometimes using an adjustable wrench, which I hate to use as well as open-end spanners.
Rob
If you need a little bit of space you can remove the horizontal bolts bolting the engine mounts onto the chassis in about 5 - 10 minutes and jack up the engine under the sump using something to spread the load - a thick metal plate.
This will be much less hassle than removing the oil pump cover.
This will be much less hassle than removing the oil pump cover.
Yep its a 1" spanner, its not getting the bold off and the spring out is the problem, its getting it all back in... thats the problem, you will need to press the bolt up to the oil case and turn the bolt to catch a thread at the same time.
I managed the last time with a small flat pry bar.
I managed the last time with a small flat pry bar.
In my experience (twice) the valve sticks open, resulting in no pressure at all. Worth checking for a weak or broken spring though. Otherwise, depending on how adventurous you're feeling, it might be time to whip the pump cover off to check for scoring on its face, and check / replace the pump gears.
Hi folks
I still haven't got around to sorting this. However, I have noticed that if I start the car and leave to get up to temperature and the fan kicks in, the oil pressure is showing just below 20, however, if I take the car for a run, when I get back the pressure drops under 10 when the car is showing the same temperature. Does that really narrow the problem down to the relief valve sticking and exclude other issues? Advice appreciated as ever.
Steve
I still haven't got around to sorting this. However, I have noticed that if I start the car and leave to get up to temperature and the fan kicks in, the oil pressure is showing just below 20, however, if I take the car for a run, when I get back the pressure drops under 10 when the car is showing the same temperature. Does that really narrow the problem down to the relief valve sticking and exclude other issues? Advice appreciated as ever.
Steve
The oil pressure on any V8 Wedge is never that great. My current Wedge starts off at around 30 when cold and goes down to around 15 when fully warm. The four previous V8 Wedges I have owned have all behaved in a similar way. What matters is how quickly the pressure rises when you rev the engine when warm, and if there are any rattling noises when idling and fully warm. Those aside, I wouldn't worry about it. Also the oil pressure gauges are never very accurate on these. If you want to know exact pressure, you need to connect up an accurate capillary device.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
My oil pressure starts off incredibly low and then slowly rises to around 24psi at cold, over maybe a minute. It runs around 40-45 psi at 2,500rpm but when hot and on tick-over the gauge reads around the 8 to 10psi. This concerned me so I bought an oil pressure test kit which showed all is actually well and it's the sender unit that is inaccurate. Actual oil pressure at tick-over is around the 18 to 20 psi. At some point I'll buy a new sender unit but at least I know the real pressure is okay.
The oil pressure does rise quickly as revs increase and there are certainly no nasty noises. I thought about the possible inaccuracy of the sender, although at idle when hot, the red oil light does ghost sometimes, and I thout it would be a bit of a coincidence for both senders to be playing up at the same time. However, your comments do give some comfort.
As Elvis says, fitting a proper capillary type will give you a much more accurate reading - I've fitted a Racetech combined oil temp and pressure gauge where my (broken) clock used to be. Hot idle is 20 psi, anything over 2.5K revs is 40 psi. The oil pressure warning light is probably set to around 5 psi. I would recommend upping the idle speed to 1K - this keeps the oil pressure up, and circulates the coolant a bit better. It's also not a great idea to let these idle for lengthy periods, as the tappets only start rotating above idle speed, so idling can induce poor wear patterns on the tappets. It doesn't sound like a sticking PRV - in my experience they either stick open or work - if the former, you will have zero pressure and the warning light will stay on. Still worth taking the bolt off of the PRV housing and looking at the spring - the PRV cylinder "should" drop out. In fact, if you've gone that far, I'd be inclined to change the cylinder and the spring, as the cost is low.
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