350i Wedge front brake pads.
Discussion
Mark,
Try MDB633 for the fronts, and MDB521 for the rear. Picture of the former looks like the one (I am going from my own notes when I had a 350, using Mintex pads in a standard Ford M16 caliper.
I would avoid DS2500, both on cost grounds and if it's strictly a road car with no track work, they would not be needed. Whereas I use them, track and road, and are very happy with them, despite the high cost.
Could I also suggest that it's a good idea to use the same brand and grade of pad both front and rear, to avoid any imbalance in the braking effect.
Try MDB633 for the fronts, and MDB521 for the rear. Picture of the former looks like the one (I am going from my own notes when I had a 350, using Mintex pads in a standard Ford M16 caliper.
I would avoid DS2500, both on cost grounds and if it's strictly a road car with no track work, they would not be needed. Whereas I use them, track and road, and are very happy with them, despite the high cost.
Could I also suggest that it's a good idea to use the same brand and grade of pad both front and rear, to avoid any imbalance in the braking effect.
Hi Peeps...Had a look at the front pads which actually look okay, I see someone has used pads with a wear indicator on but cut it off...What i don't like the look of is the colour of the brake fluid....Its a weird orange colour and there is sediment in the reservoir...Probably the seals breaking down inside the master cylinder...So a new MC/Pads & Brake fluid is in order...


FLUID

You can see the sediment in the res...

Cheers
Ziga
FLUID
You can see the sediment in the res...
Cheers
Ziga
Mark .... looks like your problem of long travel is part wear on the pads and potential leak / pass through on the master cylinder hence the black fluid. That is usually the early indication of failure to come :-( The cut off brake wear indictor is common especially with the cheaper pads. (Note you are not far off it) Easy fix and not too much money, I would always replace the MC rather than messing about with seal kits as it is usually false economy in time and money impo. With brakes "Do it once and do it right!" Pads are £25 from a decent local motor factor.
Thanks Chris...I have enlisted the help of Mr K again as he knows what he is doing and has a lift and all the tools...The pads have already been bought along with the MC and rear pads..Not sure what make but they are not cheap and nasty...I hope...
....
I will change the discs but at the moment they are not too bad..Just a bit crusty..
....
I will change the discs but at the moment they are not too bad..Just a bit crusty..

A massive thank you to PK500 for helping me out...We decided to just change the master cylinder as there was still a fair amount of pad guts left..Judging by the crud..(Microscopic remnants of seal rubber) in the fluid the MC was not far from failing...
I thought i had stumbled across a Wedge garage...There was a familiar striking blue 400SE outside and then there were another two inside...The V6 is loud mate..Not just in colour..I love that Daytona yellow..

Once the weather has warmed up a bit we will change the discs, front and rear pads, Handbrake pads..And some areas of the chassis are needing a brush up and seal..
Good seeing Dominic and Graham....
Cheers
Ziga
I thought i had stumbled across a Wedge garage...There was a familiar striking blue 400SE outside and then there were another two inside...The V6 is loud mate..Not just in colour..I love that Daytona yellow..
Once the weather has warmed up a bit we will change the discs, front and rear pads, Handbrake pads..And some areas of the chassis are needing a brush up and seal..
Good seeing Dominic and Graham....

Cheers
Ziga
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