Ahhhh rad needs to be taken out.....
Ahhhh rad needs to be taken out.....
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Discussion

gmw9666

Original Poster:

2,739 posts

222 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
So yesterday I changed all the split and perished coolant hoses.....good right?

NO!

It clearly put pressure elsewhere in the system

Guess where?

The very easy to get to otter switch grrrrr

Spotted it weeping so put my hand down to feel how wet and the otter switch came off in my hand ahhhhhhhhh



Those eagle eyed will spot the soldered nut has come off with the otter



So yup time to whip the rad out.....easy right lol

Well randomly yes.....45 mins

Spoiler came off in 5 mins

Undid all hoses and nuts (thank goodness none were seized)

Removed the oil cooler

And the rad slid out from underneath :-)

Just need to get my rad fixed now



On the plus side my braided brake hoses arrived from goodridge so put those on

Getting there phew

stevoj

798 posts

183 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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Now stop there with the spoiler Glenn, don't go any further for god sake. wink

KKson

3,466 posts

147 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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stevoj said:
Now stop there with the spoiler Glenn, don't go any further for god sake. wink
And it's sort of silvery. Put it back.... quickly!

gmw9666

Original Poster:

2,739 posts

222 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
Chill out chaps I can't wait to get this beast back on the road. She will be 110% sorted :-)

Taking the rad out has also allowed me to access to the front body to chassis mounts so I could lift the OS a tad and replace the missing rubber body to chassis top rail packing (the reason why the OSF was 2cm lower than the NS.......every cloud and all that lol


TVRJAS

2,391 posts

151 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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I know I've told you before Glen that when we first met you told me you were a Tinkerer

I'm simply amazed at your talent mate bow I realize there are many on these forums that in my eyes are also amazing.... But you ain't NO Tinkerer in my eyes smile

mrzigazaga

18,755 posts

187 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
Hi Glen...That looks a much easier way with the spoiler off, I wasn't that fortunate as a few of mu bolts were turning in the fibreglass...
It might be worth getting the otter switch hole welded up and getting a fan switch coupling like this in its place...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38MM-LAND-ROVER-DISCOVER...

This should be the correct fitment but its worth a check if you go this route..I think the "Hot side" is the thermostat side?


Cheers..Ziga

KKson

3,466 posts

147 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
On both my re-cored Wedge radiators I ordered a M22 brass ring from Burton Power (£12) and then had the refurb company solder them in. Then bought a Griff rad switch off TVR Parts. Simples.

mrzigazaga

18,755 posts

187 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
KKson said:
On both my re-cored Wedge radiators I ordered a M22 brass ring from Burton Power (£12) and then had the refurb company solder them in. Then bought a Griff rad switch off TVR Parts. Simples.
Sounds a better idea....Cheaper too...

gmw9666

Original Poster:

2,739 posts

222 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
KKson said:
On both my re-cored Wedge radiators I ordered a M22 brass ring from Burton Power (£12) and then had the refurb company solder them in. Then bought a Griff rad switch off TVR Parts. Simples.
Bingo......cheers Keith

jmorgan

36,010 posts

306 months

Saturday 12th March 2016
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Had my rad sealed up, it is a sod of a place to get at. Stick sommit in the top hose.

Clincher was when putting the otter back in I accidentally poked the sealing ring through the hole and had to take the sodding thing out again.

The Hatter

988 posts

192 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
quotequote all
OS 2cm lower than the NS...

I spent ages fighting that on my 350i. Rumour has it that for a while (1986 ish) the chassis jigs were set up incorrectly during manufacture. I thought that must be rubbish and changed all the springs/shocks/bushes etc with no effect. eventually I put a 10mm rubber spacer on the OS rear spring mount and bingo, all was right with the world. The straight line stability of the car was transformed as well as the ride height.. apparently that was a 'dealer fix' back in the day.

I reckon the rumour is true.

gmw9666

Original Poster:

2,739 posts

222 months

Monday 14th March 2016
quotequote all
The Hatter said:
OS 2cm lower than the NS...

I spent ages fighting that on my 350i. Rumour has it that for a while (1986 ish) the chassis jigs were set up incorrectly during manufacture. I thought that must be rubbish and changed all the springs/shocks/bushes etc with no effect. eventually I put a 10mm rubber spacer on the OS rear spring mount and bingo, all was right with the world. The straight line stability of the car was transformed as well as the ride height.. apparently that was a 'dealer fix' back in the day.

I reckon the rumour is true.
that doesn't surprise me lol.....my old 420 (86 car) was also lower on the front OS corner but only by 1 cm so I lived with it.

I've got my current 420 on axle stands right now on a perfectly falt garage and the bottom of the wishbones, bottom of the chassis (i.e. anything metal) is all spot on, level and matches from side to side height wise

So was just the body on the piss in this case and you can see in the OS wheel well there is no "gap" between the top rail and the body........vs a 2cm gap on the NS

With the front mounts undon I was simple to jack up (using very little force) to slide in some packers and bingo

gmw9666

Original Poster:

2,739 posts

222 months

Thursday 17th March 2016
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Well that's the rad fixed......in between decorating my lads room I'll try to nip out for an hour and get it fitted

KKson

3,466 posts

147 months

Thursday 17th March 2016
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Looks good Glen. See you moved the rad switch to the front which is a good idea. It's a bit tight on the side.

Grady

1,230 posts

282 months

Thursday 17th March 2016
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What temperature switches are you running (on a 280i)? I replaced my otter with a thread-in on the rear side a couple of years ago. Today I found the fuse blown, and took out the new thermo switch and found it was a 103c/95c switch. I'm thinking a 95c/85c switch would be a better match as 100 = redline. Grady