Wesley's MOT Failure

[John042]

Hi all, black arm bands please, "Wesley" failed his MOT. Brakes binding and more disconcerting, play in the inner steering rack knuckle joint. Also he had a "Blonde" moment by refusing to start whilst warm! Lack of technique by the garage! Anyway, brakes yes, thought they might free off on the drive to the MOT. Ford Granda MK2 calipers front, Jaguar XJ6 rear, if pistons etc corroded? The steering might present a problem. It's a power steering rack but the bible is rather vague on type. Listing chassis numbers and identifying it as a TVR/Ford item? However is it possible to just replace the track rod arm that fits into the end of the rack? This will be one of the problem areas as I'm not sure what rack is fitted judging by the past problem of mounting the alternator because of the angle of the input shaft into the rack. Any help please? Thankyou John C.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi John...Sorry to hear that Wesley failed..There were a couple of racks fitted but yours should have the Cortina mk4-5 power rack....Track rod ends can be replaced but if there are any issues with the rack itself then you are better off getting it refurbished...Steering UJ's can be bought but it might be wise to change the two column UJ's and the bulkhead bush as that can cause play...Normally up and down...In and out is the column UJ...Its best to measure the length of them and also the diameter of the input shafts..Top..Middle and bottom.

Calipers are Granada M16 on the front, Jag rears...

[John042]

Thanks Zig as always to the rescue. The rack I think is going to be a problem. The part that's worn is the track rod end that fits into the rack not the end connected to the wheel. The column is fine with no play since I fitted a new bulkhead bush. If you remember the problem I had with the alternator mountings because of the acute angle of input shaft to the rack. This leads me into considering what is fitted? Is is possible that the ball joint on the track rod which locates into the rack is worn? Can that be replaced rather than refurbishing the rack? Any thoughts Zig? Also are brake caliper repair kits, ie seals/pistons worth considering or is it best to replace each caliper? Cheers J C.

[adam quantrill]

First job will be to clean any crud off the pistons, and push them in, one caliper at a time, between each caliper free-up reinstall the pads and push down on the brake pedal. If nothing else it will show you where the binding is.

The steering 'knuckle' is an easy one it's the track rod end - cheap and easy to replace.

[mrzigazaga]

The track rod ends are Cortina mk4-5 but buy good ones..Same for upper & Lower balljoints..The ball joints may need drilling out as the originals were riveted in..
I think it was Glen who just paid 90 sobs for both his calipers to be rebuilt by Bigg Redd...Bargain really mate...
Did you have any geo done..tracking?...

[John042]

Thanks Adam I wish it was the track rod end, easy. Unfortunately it's the other end into the rack. Options? Other than refurbishing/replacing the complete rack please? Cheers J C.

[tbernd]

Hi John,

to identify your rack you can send a photo to Kiley Clinton:

http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/

They will tell you what rack it is, maybe have parts and can do a complete refurb.

With the calipers try first Adam´s method, if this will not work you can remove them and try to press out the pistons with compressed air but be careful where your fingers are , sometimes a grease gun works too (screw a grease nipple in where the hose is attached and try to press out the piston. If they are out you must clean them and put them in again with new sealings. This might be useful:

http://www.ate-info.de/en/products/datasheet/ate-b...

Good luck!

Cheers
Bernd

[gmw9666]

mrzigazaga said:

I think it was Glen who just paid 90 sobs for both his calipers to be rebuilt by Bigg Redd...Bargain really mate...
Did you have any geo done..tracking?...

yup, was me

my rears were binding so much I could hardly turn the wheels

Before






After spending £89.............new seals, new pistons, even removed a snapped bleed nipple (no idea how the previous owners bleed their brakes as it was an old snap looking at the crud around it)

[John042]

Thanks Bernd for the Rack info' Isn't the end of the track rod that fits into the rack a ball joint or kunkle that can be replaced?? Glen I've also been down your route with calipers on various cars only to end up buying replacements. Are the rears XJ6 or XJS, and from what source did you find them? As always, thanks for the valuable information. Wesley will live again,eventually. Cheers J C.

[adam quantrill]

gmw9666 said:

no idea how the previous owners bleed their brakes as it was an old snap looking at the crud around it

There is a trick to that - you loosen one of the feed pipes and push the piston back in.

[wild rover]

The part nos for the calipers are on the part list shown on the list started but weggie.

[Number 7]

John,
as Tbernd suggests, Kiley Clinton is the company to speak to. They refurbished the PAS rack on my 400 last year (Cortina based), and did a great job at a reasonable price.

[John042]

Thanks all. Contact made with Kiley-Clinton. The rack depending on type can either be re-shimmed or the ball on the track rod end which fits into the rack re-worked. They also refurbish brake calipers, probably the best/cost option. Thanks again. J C

[adam quantrill]

That's good to know let us know how much the rack work comes to. I am living with an advisory for a little play - hasn't got worse though for 2 years.

[Number 7]

Mine was £212 including return carriage and vat, last year.

[Yatesy350i]

Great service from Kyle Clinton. Can't remember how much mine was but it wasn't daft money.

Shame it's not a manual rack. I've got one in the shed I keep tripping over :-)

[John042]

Just a quick up date, rear brakes off awaiting inspection. The track rod is off eventually. There's a hidden pin on the inner steering knuckle before it can be unscrewed. The knucle joint, or what's left of it has gone off to Kiley to be identified. Although the rack is probably SD1 apparently the joints might not be!!! Good old TVR. Anyway Kiley seems to think he can match up a joint.cool. So progress I hope. Cheers J C.

[Wedg1e]

If it was a Camgears (Cortina) rack then it was modified by being stripped down and having the track rods from a Granada fitted to make the rack the correct width.
As you've found the ball-joint on the rack end is a screwed cup & lock-ring secured by being drilled and pinned; sometimes to save time when the racks were rebuilt they didn't redrill & pin but just welded the cup to the rack
If you're lucky you can drill out the pin and adjust the screwed cup to add the correct preload to the ball end but it may be already too far gone for that.

[John042]

Thanks Wedg1e. Yes the nylon cup had virtually disappeared. Mine was pinned which I found out too late after using an angle grinder to get the joint off.I guess when I get the joint back from Kiley and fit the tie rod onto the new joint I'll have to work out the correct loading before re-pinning it onto the rack? Fortunately I've found the small spring which fits into the rack and presses onto the ball via a little nylon end. Spent today grovelling underneath "Wesley" removing the brake calipers. Such fun! Cheers John C

[Wedg1e]

John042 said:

I guess when I get the joint back from Kiley and fit the tie rod onto the new joint I'll have to work out the correct loading before re-pinning it onto the rack?

Aye, that information is rarely found in Haynes manuals I think it was usually done with a spring balance acting on the end of the thread but I think as long as it has a reasonable amount of preload to make it stiff-ish you'd not have a problem.
As you'll have noticed, you then tighten the locking ring and drill down the join between it and the threaded cup, into the rack itself and drive in a taper pin.