Front Wheel Camber
Discussion
A good DIY way to check by hand is to use a large builder's spirit level (most do vertical as well as horizontal), and if you just touch bottom tyre wall and set the level vertical that will give a good baseline. Camber should be nearly equal on both wheels.
Check all tyre pressures first, and make sure steering is set 'straight' forwards, as angles vary as wheels turn.
I've also done a DIY wheel alignment by using long runs of angle iron laid against tyres, and then measure distances using tyre touch points.
Not as good as a machine, but my DIY setup was not all that bad when checked later ...
Check all tyre pressures first, and make sure steering is set 'straight' forwards, as angles vary as wheels turn.
I've also done a DIY wheel alignment by using long runs of angle iron laid against tyres, and then measure distances using tyre touch points.
Not as good as a machine, but my DIY setup was not all that bad when checked later ...
Not sure about "Positive camber" and a Wedge front wheel?...Obviously the MOT checked the control arm, Drop links and upper & Lower ball-joints?..I take it you had new track rod ends, Was the adjustment to each correct?.....Bushes might be worn but i wouldn't imagine you would see a definite camber....?...Does the vehicle wander or pull to that side?...
RCK974X said:
A good DIY way to check by hand is to use a large builder's spirit level (most do vertical as well as horizontal), and if you just touch bottom tyre wall and set the level vertical that will give a good baseline. Camber should be nearly equal on both wheels.
Check all tyre pressures first, and make sure steering is set 'straight' forwards, as angles vary as wheels turn.
I've also done a DIY wheel alignment by using long runs of angle iron laid against tyres, and then measure distances using tyre touch points.
Not as good as a machine, but my DIY setup was not all that bad when checked later ...
if the body is in the way for a large spirit level then find a straight piece of wood to space the level out. with the tyre, wood and level all touching - the level bubble will be to one side. move the top of the level out should bring the bubble to the centre. If you have to move the base of the level to bring the bubble centre then there is a problem as it has positive camber which it should not have.Check all tyre pressures first, and make sure steering is set 'straight' forwards, as angles vary as wheels turn.
I've also done a DIY wheel alignment by using long runs of angle iron laid against tyres, and then measure distances using tyre touch points.
Not as good as a machine, but my DIY setup was not all that bad when checked later ...
Thanks for the replies. I did another wheel alignment check and adjusted both track rods evenly rather than just on the one I replaced. I must say it looks much better. There is still a little "Lean" out at the top of the wheel compared to the other side when checked with a piece of wood and a spirit level but track adjustment has definitely improved the situation. I also ran a piece of cord from front to rear and the wheels look reasonable straight. If I solve the hot starting issue I might celebrate with more beer. 
My friendly garage lent me an excellent book on the Bosch injection systems. American but written for people with big fingers and small brains.
Seriously it's a good bed time read, so I've ordered one. One of the problems with hot starting is the sensor plate position in the intake funnel. Because mine is so difficult to start when hot with no fuel getting to the injectors I checked the plates position, unfortunately it's OK. The theory being if the plate doesn't move it won't act on the control valve in the fuel distributor. Various reasons are given, ie adjustment and vacuum leaks. Didn't find any but adjusted the mixture a little and it has improved a bit. "Wesley" is on a roll.
Cheers all. John C.
My friendly garage lent me an excellent book on the Bosch injection systems. American but written for people with big fingers and small brains. Seriously it's a good bed time read, so I've ordered one. One of the problems with hot starting is the sensor plate position in the intake funnel. Because mine is so difficult to start when hot with no fuel getting to the injectors I checked the plates position, unfortunately it's OK. The theory being if the plate doesn't move it won't act on the control valve in the fuel distributor. Various reasons are given, ie adjustment and vacuum leaks. Didn't find any but adjusted the mixture a little and it has improved a bit. "Wesley" is on a roll. Cheers all. John C. Hi John...If you blip the throttle once warmed up...With the butterfly linkage and not the pedal does Wesley return to idle almost instantly?.....If not then adjust the mixture screw but very carefully...Don't push or pull on the tool when on the hex adjuster on the metering unit as this will effect it..You only need to turn in increments of 1/8th inch at a time but mark where you start with a little dab of tippex.
You will know when you find the sweet spot....
Realistically you shouldn't have a hot start unless you have vapour lock or loss of fuel pressure..Sometimes Delilah was a beach to start and would always start on only 5 cylinders...However once sorted she never had a hot start issue ever again...Mine was a leaking accumulator ...
Out of interest does Wesley run and idle okay when hot if you keep him running or does he misfire and stall?...
You will know when you find the sweet spot....
Realistically you shouldn't have a hot start unless you have vapour lock or loss of fuel pressure..Sometimes Delilah was a beach to start and would always start on only 5 cylinders...However once sorted she never had a hot start issue ever again...Mine was a leaking accumulator ...
Out of interest does Wesley run and idle okay when hot if you keep him running or does he misfire and stall?...
No Mark, once started from hot idle is perfect as is pickup. The funny thing is with all the cranking when hot you would expect black smoke etc from the expected fuel flooding. However once started with full throttle, he misses for about 20 seconds and returns to an even tickover. As you know accumulator has been replaced and conversation with Steve, KMI points to the WUR. I have to say tickover from cold is the same as when hot. The mixture was set at the MOT I've since altered it which seems to have improved hot starting. You're right, it's a very fine adjustment, even the weight of the allen key makes a difference. Don't you love them? J C.
I was told that having the mixture set by the MOT was not a good thing as the unit essentially is a factory set unit with adjustment discouraged...Especially to the DIY...When i was at Power engineering they tampered with it and it wouldn't even start...They stood about scratching their heads and i went in and adjusted the fuel until it started...When i asked them if they had touched it they reluctantly said yes...I wasn't happy but i stood there with them after that and watched them like a bloody hawk....They had tried to increase the fuelling for the supercharger but i pointed out that i had given them a modified WUR/FPR which they had forgotten to fit??...Jeeze....
Try starting him on half throttle...I seem to remember having to do that when Delilah was sorted.....
From cold are the revs high...Should be about 1200-1500 and then settle to around 850-900rpm..Also have you used any additives in the fuel?
The cold start should kick in with the extra fuel...Try this...When running remove the oil filler and put your hand over the tube...Give the throttle a blip to see if there is any suction on your hand...If there is then the inlet manifold gasket is leaking...It commonly leaks near the distributor mainly due to the design of the gasket...A tad more silicone is always recommended there and you have to be careful on assembly.
Try starting him on half throttle...I seem to remember having to do that when Delilah was sorted.....
From cold are the revs high...Should be about 1200-1500 and then settle to around 850-900rpm..Also have you used any additives in the fuel?
The cold start should kick in with the extra fuel...Try this...When running remove the oil filler and put your hand over the tube...Give the throttle a blip to see if there is any suction on your hand...If there is then the inlet manifold gasket is leaking...It commonly leaks near the distributor mainly due to the design of the gasket...A tad more silicone is always recommended there and you have to be careful on assembly.
The tickover when cold is below 1000rpm about the same as when hot 600/800. This afternoon I went round the inlet housing etc with some soapy water to see if there were any leaks, none obvious. Once hot starting is an art to catch it on the throttle or resort to prolonged crank at full throttle. The mixture is so critical trading against even tickover, rpm decay and pickup. Also now hot starting. J C.
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