350i Outrigger replacement time!
Discussion
Hi mate
This may help...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Im not sure if he actually has any drawings although i should imagine he has.....
This may help...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Im not sure if he actually has any drawings although i should imagine he has.....
Information and how to were on the wedgepages. Don't think it is online any more. Tubes on my wedge were fine, but used the drawing&hole specifications/dimensions to re-manufacture the rear plates as over 50% (including the seatbelt bolt area!) had gone.
Perhaps someone can provide the dimensions for the plates. I went 3mm plate to be on the safe and future side, 2mm thinkness is probably enough.
Tubes: measure before grinding them of I would think. There is even a method of cutting the chassis tubes to the outrigger, sleeve them and put a full new outrigger on.
If you do a search via google, it probably will provide also some useful experience&information.
Rob
Perhaps someone can provide the dimensions for the plates. I went 3mm plate to be on the safe and future side, 2mm thinkness is probably enough.
Tubes: measure before grinding them of I would think. There is even a method of cutting the chassis tubes to the outrigger, sleeve them and put a full new outrigger on.
If you do a search via google, it probably will provide also some useful experience&information.
Rob
350zwelgje said:
Information and how to were on the wedgepages. Don't think it is online any more...
Seems that the Wedge pages started redirecting to "Tampa Lawyer" back around 2008. Here is an archive of the site when it was on line:https://web.archive.org/web/20071128052031/http://...
Unfortunately the way back machine doesn't always capture all the content, and in this case it may be missing what you are looking for, on a very quick look it seems that there *was* a page that would have covered what you wanted, but it has lost its graphics; look at "Maintenance", then "Chassis repairs". The archive still may have some userful content.
Good news is that now that I have looked a little further at the other page linked by Mr.Zigazaga the text is exactly the same as was on the tvrwegepages AND it has the photos. I edited this post to add that point (and remove some useless ramble), but will leave this response in place in case you or others are not familiar with the web.archive.org "Way back machine", and may find it useful or interesting to be able to view what has been archived.
Edited by UKAuto on Friday 8th April 05:59
I always wondered if it was better to do the outriggers in stainless - fit and forget.
Or alternatively make up the replacements to butt onto the pipes coming out of the chassis, and then send them for hot-dip galvanising. When they come back they may need to be bent back to shape slightly before fitting. Also make sure to clean off the zinc from the welding areas before final fitting.
I'm sure it will be a proper job even if you do it in mild - please post up some photos as you go along.
Or alternatively make up the replacements to butt onto the pipes coming out of the chassis, and then send them for hot-dip galvanising. When they come back they may need to be bent back to shape slightly before fitting. Also make sure to clean off the zinc from the welding areas before final fitting.
I'm sure it will be a proper job even if you do it in mild - please post up some photos as you go along.
That TVRWedgepages stuff was mine; Wedgeneering is my site. The chassis drawings were submitted to Mr. Heath for inclusion in his book on the Wedges but he decided not to include them; allegedly TVR leaned on him to not provide owners with correct information 
As stated, there are differences between the early and later chassis (and by inference, between trailing-arm and A-frame cars); a D-plate 350i should have A-frames and I do have drawings for that.
The SEACs and later big SEs had a revised chassis with some square tubing replacing the round sill rails. I don't think any of the 390SEs got that variant, however I think some of the last 280i's (the 'US-spec' ones) did have square sill tubes.
Welding stainless to mild is quite possible but the chances are that the welds themselves will then become the weak point long-term unless you do the research and find the correct filler wire (and it won't be whatever Halfords sell). Just use a quality paint and then underseal it and there's no reason why the repairs won't last decades. As you can see on my site, the repairs I did in 2001 are still sound.
For my last repair I used 2mm galvanised plate which was then painted and undersealed; should probably outlast me
As stated, there are differences between the early and later chassis (and by inference, between trailing-arm and A-frame cars); a D-plate 350i should have A-frames and I do have drawings for that.
The SEACs and later big SEs had a revised chassis with some square tubing replacing the round sill rails. I don't think any of the 390SEs got that variant, however I think some of the last 280i's (the 'US-spec' ones) did have square sill tubes.
Welding stainless to mild is quite possible but the chances are that the welds themselves will then become the weak point long-term unless you do the research and find the correct filler wire (and it won't be whatever Halfords sell). Just use a quality paint and then underseal it and there's no reason why the repairs won't last decades. As you can see on my site, the repairs I did in 2001 are still sound.
For my last repair I used 2mm galvanised plate which was then painted and undersealed; should probably outlast me
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