280i water pump

[marlon dingle]

Hello Chaps.

I think the water pump has packed up on my 280 series 2.

A fine spray of water is coming from the viscous fan. I spoke to a guy at Tick Over today about the FCWP4 water pump he was confident it was the correct one for my car, but said I should check the square hole on the right hand side. I have tried looking but its not easy and to be sure I haven't a clue.
Can anybody help please.
If it helps my engine number is WPP1340-18.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate...Clive is probably talking about the thermostat opening on the water pump cover, He is thread about it not so long ago...

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...

Of course the only way to see is to remove it....
The Sierra V6 had a slightly different water pump..

[marlon dingle]

Hi Ziga,

I told Clive I would call him back tomorrow. I think Ill ask him what other variables he has and ask if I can buy one of each and return the incorrect ones. Im getting a local garage to fix it for me, as I have so little time at the moment.

Ian.

[mrzigazaga]

Im sure he will be okay with that...Yours is more likely to be this one..

And TBH if you have the thermostat housing like this then it most certainly will be...

[Grady]

Couple of thoughts...
My SII uses the same one that was used on a 2.8 Capri. At some point I had one (I think it came with the car or maybe I bought it and returned it) that was made from stamped metal. The replacement was cast iron.

The cast iron ones rust. I'd recommend cleaning and spraying it before installation or it will look, well, rusty in no time.

Getting the thermostat to stay in place while you mount the pump cover thermostat/hose cover requires 3 hands and very long, thin fingers. I finally used gasket tack to "glue" it into the recess where it fits. Otherwise something always caused it to leap out at the last second.

The cast iron is fragile. Make very sure the thermostat is mounted correctly before you tighten the cover up or you can snap an ear off the pump housing thermostat/hose cover if the thermostat drops out of place. I learned to use a jeweler's screwdriver to double check the fitment with out damaging the gasket.

I'd drill an 1/8th inch hole in the thermostat to prevent air getting trapped behind it.

One or more of the bolts around the thermostat is wet so lubricate it to prevent corrosion.

Grady

ETA - Thanks to Mark for posting the picture of all the parts; it has been a while!

Edited by Grady on Tuesday 26th April 22:00

Edited by Grady on Tuesday 26th April 22:01

[marlon dingle]

Thanks I will take another look after work tomorrow. What is the part number of that one?

I,ve just had a thought my cologne has a gear cam instead of a cam belt. Did Ford only put these in Granada's?

[marlon dingle]

Hi Grady,

Very handy tips there,thanks.

The job sounds like its going to be a nightmare what with the bonnet opening forward and the radiator being so close.

Ian

[phillpot]

marlon dingle said:

I've just had a thought my cologne has a gear cam instead of a cam belt. Did Ford only put these in Granada's?

As far as I know all 2.8's were gear driven, and the later 2.9's were chain.. cam belts came much later.


Access is possibly better on the S series cars............

[marlon dingle]

Thanks for the replys guys,

It suddenly dawned on me last night I have 25+ years of receipts to have a look through, surly the pump has been replaced during that time.

When I get it sussed Ill post the P/N and my engine number and hopefully help people with the same problem.

Ian.

[Grady]

marlon dingle said:

The job sounds like its going to be a nightmare what with the bonnet opening forward and the radiator being so close.

The thermostat is all done from the underside so the higher the better. My radiator is in the nose so out of the way and no fan issues but the other hoses were short and a PITA to bend.

It's coming back now... the problem is lining up the front and rear covers (around the pump housing) while keeping the thermostat (which you can't get to) in place and threading in the 3 bolts. Grady

[mrzigazaga]

Most jobs are easier with the bonnet off...

[plasticpig72]

yes, bonnet pins with clips very handy

[marlon dingle]

Hi All,

Well Ive been through all the receipts and it seems the pump hasn't been replaced in the last 25yrs.

I had another quick look when I got in from work and as RCK974X said there is a squire box thing that stick out on the near side which the lower rad pipe connects as well as a pipe for the heater. So Im quite confident this is the correct pump
http://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/d230...

Ian.

[marlon dingle]

Thanks RCK974X I will definitely be giving it a really good flush out.

I was having a read of the Haynes manual for the ford Granada, and it say remove the engine drain plugs in the block. Are they proper drain plugs or core plugs and does anybody on here remove them for a good flush out?

Ian.

[marlon dingle]

RCK974X said:

Honestly, I wouldn't bother... they are under the exhaust manifolds, about 2/3 the along the block, and are proper screw in plugs, but you can shove your hose directly into the main water holes on each side of the block with the pump off, so it's good access. If your engine is anything the Colognes I've worked on, there's probably a surprising amount of crud and rust that will come out....

Thank RCK974X.

Ian.