Discussion
Dave Skelly sent in a good article on re-veneering Wedge dashboards. It's under the maintenance tab if you wanna have a peek, anybody else had a go at this?.
My glovebox lid has had it and was thinking of having a 'go'.
MikeB
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk
My glovebox lid has had it and was thinking of having a 'go'.
MikeB
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk
Another good article and certainly looks to be a good result.
Strangely enough yes! I've just started doing my door handles, not bad with 1 arm
Looking ok so far but I'm now not sure about the veneer I've got. It's burr walnut, but isn't as contrasting as the original, it's all quite dark in colour. Unvarnished as yet....top tip, don't use all in one woodstain+varnish unless you want to hide all the wood and make it look like a fence! I've just sanded it off my door handle again.
Someone else who's been at it, sure you can guess who
www.streaky-bacon.co.uk/Wedge/Reveneering.html
cheers
Dave
Strangely enough yes! I've just started doing my door handles, not bad with 1 arm
Looking ok so far but I'm now not sure about the veneer I've got. It's burr walnut, but isn't as contrasting as the original, it's all quite dark in colour. Unvarnished as yet....top tip, don't use all in one woodstain+varnish unless you want to hide all the wood and make it look like a fence! I've just sanded it off my door handle again. Someone else who's been at it, sure you can guess who
www.streaky-bacon.co.uk/Wedge/Reveneering.html
cheers
Dave
Good effort that man!
I tried it years ago when my Tasmin was in a bit of a state: despite writing-off £40-worth of American burr walnut and stinking the house out with animal glue, I never achieved the results I'd hoped for. I found the veneer hammer, pearl glue, lacquer etc. that I'd bought specially, in the garage last year and flogged them on Ebay. I guess some of us are just not meant to be 'craft-y'... I'll stick to my MIG welder and angle grinder...
>> Edited by wedg1e on Tuesday 1st March 00:14
I tried it years ago when my Tasmin was in a bit of a state: despite writing-off £40-worth of American burr walnut and stinking the house out with animal glue, I never achieved the results I'd hoped for. I found the veneer hammer, pearl glue, lacquer etc. that I'd bought specially, in the garage last year and flogged them on Ebay. I guess some of us are just not meant to be 'craft-y'... I'll stick to my MIG welder and angle grinder...
>> Edited by wedg1e on Tuesday 1st March 00:14
Hallo Mike,
I am in the midlle of a veneering job for my SEAC. Already finished the glovepart and the middle part . Last week I started the speedometer part. I did it like this : The backplate for all tree veneer parts are made of steel. The veneer is made of wood and wrinkled. The wrinkled veneer must be flatened by making is wet and be pressed under some heavy weight (books) for a couple of days. When you take the books off it looks a lot better but is not completely flat ! The second step is to glue the veneer on 1mm plywood. You can damp the veneer a little bit and glue it with a waterbased white coloured woodglue. Put again some weight on it and after a couple of days you can glue it to the metal plate where you have to use a different glue. The reason I did it this way is because the veneer is so thin that the glue is coming through it. When you glue the veneer straight on steel , you have to use the thinner bases glue which will make ugly marks on the surface. That is why I choose for an extra layer of 1mm plywood to keep the veneersurface free of gluemarks.So, when everything is glued together you sand of the veneer a little bit and put the first layer of varnish on. I kept 8 hours between the first 3 layers and after that I sanded (600 waterproof)it slightly of. You do that after every three layers till you reached about 15 layers.Dry it for a week at normal temperature. After that you start to sand it off with (800-1000 waterproof) and you end with 2000 waterproof. After that you polish it with a good cleaner and you finish it with a good carwax.
Mine are like new now!!
Good luck
William
The Netherlands
I am in the midlle of a veneering job for my SEAC. Already finished the glovepart and the middle part . Last week I started the speedometer part. I did it like this : The backplate for all tree veneer parts are made of steel. The veneer is made of wood and wrinkled. The wrinkled veneer must be flatened by making is wet and be pressed under some heavy weight (books) for a couple of days. When you take the books off it looks a lot better but is not completely flat ! The second step is to glue the veneer on 1mm plywood. You can damp the veneer a little bit and glue it with a waterbased white coloured woodglue. Put again some weight on it and after a couple of days you can glue it to the metal plate where you have to use a different glue. The reason I did it this way is because the veneer is so thin that the glue is coming through it. When you glue the veneer straight on steel , you have to use the thinner bases glue which will make ugly marks on the surface. That is why I choose for an extra layer of 1mm plywood to keep the veneersurface free of gluemarks.So, when everything is glued together you sand of the veneer a little bit and put the first layer of varnish on. I kept 8 hours between the first 3 layers and after that I sanded (600 waterproof)it slightly of. You do that after every three layers till you reached about 15 layers.Dry it for a week at normal temperature. After that you start to sand it off with (800-1000 waterproof) and you end with 2000 waterproof. After that you polish it with a good cleaner and you finish it with a good carwax.
Mine are like new now!!
Good luck
William
The Netherlands
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