engine oils

[Mike Brewer]

Can I use 10/50 engine oil .Or should I stick to 20/50 for my 350. .Thanks Mike

[Convert]

Valvoline VR1 20/50.

Change it every 3K miles

[Yatesy350i]

Convert said:

Valvoline VR1 20/50.

Change it every 3K miles

Same here. Although might get changed a bit more frequently as I only managed 750 miles last year :-(

[stevoj]

Convert said:

Valvoline VR1 20/50.

Change it every 3K miles

+1

[mrzigazaga]

VR1 Valvoline is a good one...I actually went for a heritage classic oil from these guys...They are worth checking out for all the oils...Diff...Gearbox....Engine....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

[JumboBeef]

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluid...

This was recommended to me a couple of years ago, looks good with good reviews.

[mrzigazaga]

JumboBeef said:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluid...

This was recommended to me a couple of years ago, looks good with good reviews.

Hi mate...I used to use that but prefer this now...
http://www.classic-oils.net/Classic-Oils-Heritage-...

[adam quantrill]

Also 20W/50, also change every 3k, but I use Comma classic.

The Castrol classic is good stuff too.

[Nick Brough]

For what it's worth I asked Heath at X works what oil I should be putting in the 400SE he advised 10/40 semi synthetic.

Also, a number of years ago when I owned a 1932 Rolls Royce 20/25 I attended a lecture at the owners club on maintaining the cars. When it came to the subject of oil the owner of Ristes http://ristesmotors.co.uk/ who was giving the talk said for oil just use bog standard 20/25, and not to bother with any of the expensive classic oils, which to me was quite a surprise.

Would have to check if this was the case today as I have also been advised to only use Lucas 20/50 racing oil in my Ford 351 V8 by a top expert, because it has a high zinc content which I understand is now greatly reduced in other 20/50's.

Regards

Nick

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Hi zinc content is useful for a new engine or camshaft, as help them bed in.
Also the design of the engine is very old, and the clearances are designed for a 20/50 oil.
oil is just a bearing i.e. little balls that the moving parts roll on, so if you think about it using small balls is not a good idea even if they are better. so best use what it was designed for.

[pasogrande]

Here is what I wrote three years ago:

As I posted elsewhere, the US government mandated that the amount of zinc is reduced in engine oils, as it affects the life of catalytic converters. For older engines (flat tappet engines) extra zinc is needed. For my boat I use Joe Gibbs oil, developed for race cars. Other people here use Rotella. And when I get the wedge back on the road I will use Joe Gibbs.

I'm not sure if this is applicable in the UK.


I am told by the experts that zinc is needed for older engines, and am sure it applies to wedges. New engines are designed to run on low zinc oil.

Wilf.

[jimburr]

Tell me how an engine developed in the 50s needs special oil? Now how special is the NCK 3.9 (350SE)? its had 15/40 running through its veins for the whole of my ownership?

[KKson]

There's a thread on engine oil in my local TVR-CC forum (C3C). One of the guys previously had spoken to John Eales and John advised that as the engines are still quite agricultural he would still recommend classic 20W/50 for any older Rover engine he has put together. It's Morris Goldenfilm 20W/50 Classic for mine.

[mrzigazaga]

What is also very important are the yearly oil changes as the ZDDP deteriorates in this time...This prevents cam wear so its good practice to change the oil yearly whatever you use....

[Nick Brough]

pasogrande said:

For older engines (flat tappet engines) extra zinc is needed.
Wilf.

Very good point in my opinion

mrzigazaga said:

What is also very important are the yearly oil changes as the ZDDP deteriorates in this time...This prevents cam wear so its good practice to change the oil yearly whatever you use....

have to agree, in my opinion it would be better to buy a cheap oil and change it every year than an expensive one and change it less regularly.

A bit of light reading for oil aficionados lifted from a GT40 forum

http://www.motoroiltests.com/car-oil-testing.html#...

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech...

Regards

Nick

Edited by Nick Brough on Wednesday 8th June 09:50

[pasogrande]

The reason given for the government mandate to reduce the zinc content was because zinc reduced the life of the government mandated catalytic converter.

Wilf.

[mk1fan]

jimburr said:

Tell me how an engine developed in the 50s needs special oil? Now how special is the NCK 3.9 (350SE)? its had 15/40 running through its veins for the whole of my ownership?

'Special' is not what people are suggesting. Merely 'correct' oil.

[tofts]

jimburr said:

Tell me how an engine developed in the 50s needs special oil?

Technology.

If your statement holds true, then why don't we use valves instead of transistors in Modern electronics?



I agree with the ZDDP although not essential on an already worn engine. As for what grade, it all depends on your use. At higher temps, the 40/50/60 weights makes a negligible differences and there is only about 10cst difference in the viscosity. The 20 weight is only important at low temps, if you use your car a lot in the winter a 20 weight oil is too thick for proper circulation. Although these cars are 50s designed, they are 90s manufactured meaning higher tolerances. As such you don't need a thick oil, and in actual fact can impede oil flow at low temps. The difference between 10/20 at low temps can be over 500 cst or more which is a lot and as such I would personally put in 10w60 or 10w50. Thin enough at cold temps to remain viscous enough to circulate and thick enough at very high temps to have enough sheer to protect the bearings.

20w50 would be fine if you don't use the car in cold temps, as it would not circulate especially well at 10 degree or less. The 50 is fine and will be thick enough, but if you get the engine REALLY hot (above 90 degree oil temp) then your pressure cab start to drop off at lower engine speeds.

J

Edited by tofts on Wednesday 8th June 13:42

[sundown]

I have in my 4.5 lucas 20 50 racing only high zinc good oil

[Number 7]

jimburr said:

Tell me how an engine developed in the 50s needs special oil? ?

If its run on track. "ordinary" oils cannot withstand extreme heat as well as those with high ester content. I've seen oil temps on 130 deg. C on track (ambient around 28 deg. C). Motul 300V and Silkolene Pro S will cope with that. I'd not trust much else.