Wedge Window Wunner Wemoval.
Discussion
Hi Peeps
Just wondered if anyone could advise on the removal of the drivers side window runner..Is it a motor out job...Mirrors off...etc...
I changed an Escort window runner years ago and it was just a case of popping out the wheels from the runner and lifting the window and runner out up through the top of the door....Is this the case with the Wedge?
Thanks for any advice...
Cheers
Ziga
PS: There was a post but i couldn't find it...
Just wondered if anyone could advise on the removal of the drivers side window runner..Is it a motor out job...Mirrors off...etc...
I changed an Escort window runner years ago and it was just a case of popping out the wheels from the runner and lifting the window and runner out up through the top of the door....Is this the case with the Wedge?
Thanks for any advice...
Cheers
Ziga
PS: There was a post but i couldn't find it...

Zig,
Assuming door is same as earlier ones, the front channel/runner (with the triangle and mirror attached) has three screws on the top of the sloping door moulding, and one bolt at the bottom of the door.
Then it just slides upwards and out.
Mirror will make it a bit more fiddly because of the wires.
Rear channel has a bolt at bottom, some seem to have a screw at the top, some don't. That slides up and out too, but sits between the lock linkages, so can be very fiddly to get the angles right so it doesn't snag on something.
Window slides off the 'X' forwards - have window about half way up so slope angle allows window to go forwards into the door and come
off the wheel things (two of them).
That's from doing my 280 ...but it has no leccy mirrors
Assuming door is same as earlier ones, the front channel/runner (with the triangle and mirror attached) has three screws on the top of the sloping door moulding, and one bolt at the bottom of the door.
Then it just slides upwards and out.
Mirror will make it a bit more fiddly because of the wires.
Rear channel has a bolt at bottom, some seem to have a screw at the top, some don't. That slides up and out too, but sits between the lock linkages, so can be very fiddly to get the angles right so it doesn't snag on something.
Window slides off the 'X' forwards - have window about half way up so slope angle allows window to go forwards into the door and come
off the wheel things (two of them).
That's from doing my 280 ...but it has no leccy mirrors
If I recall from my car, once you've taken the two bolts out that retain the runners to the bottom of the door you can spread them (ooer missus) far enough apart to allow the glass to tilt and be slid out through the top of the door (you have to wiggle the glass around to get the lift rollers to disengage of course).
Haynes have their 'spanner' ratings for the complexity of jobs; for Zig it should be a Valium rating... this is only a quarter Valium job Mark
I see you baby... breaking that glass... breaking that glass...
Haynes have their 'spanner' ratings for the complexity of jobs; for Zig it should be a Valium rating... this is only a quarter Valium job Mark

I see you baby... breaking that glass... breaking that glass...

Mark, when i did mine, i did not remove the motor, just the glass and interior door trims / cards etc.
when i removed the glass, the runner was rusted into two pieces so easy to remove - just slid off.
getting the new runner back on was a little more tricky, but i slid one end one and then adjusted the window sissor down slightly to then slide the other side on.
hope this helps
oh and watch your fingers..
when i removed the glass, the runner was rusted into two pieces so easy to remove - just slid off.
getting the new runner back on was a little more tricky, but i slid one end one and then adjusted the window sissor down slightly to then slide the other side on.
hope this helps
oh and watch your fingers..
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