Came close to an MOT but V8 rebuild instead...

[jgmadkit]

Got my 350i late last year from fellow PHer specifically as a project to work on. Initially with just the intention of getting it back on the road for me to drive as I havn't had a TVR or a V8 engined car before, then do a total body off resto. Got close, after a lot of work had the MOT booked and started the drive to the station, this was only the 2nd time I'd driven the car though so no idea how it was going to behave. I new the engine wasn't great as had a small amount of milky residue in both rockers, seemed to run ok so took the risk. Within about 500 yards though it became obvious something was not right with the engine, started making an expensive knocking sound so immediately headed back home and cancelled the MOT. Drats!

Noise seems to be top end so have started the strip down and took some compression readings, varied from 125 - 175psi and everything in between. Any tips on stripping it down, not having worked on the Rover V8 before it would be useful to get some pointers. Will probably get the engine out with gearbox as I have a gear selection issue along with a 'lazy' clutch pedal.

Would also welcome opinions on the exhaust as I wasn't sure if it would be an MOT pass. It's a Powerflow SS exhaust but the tube runs goes through the rear suspension either side of the diff, in that they run in the gap between the trailing arms and the drive shafts. On full suspension drop the driveshafts are about 1mm away from the exhaust. It was on the car when I bought it and have no idea if it has been MOT'd with it on before, seems a bit of a no no but would rather not go to the expense of changing it at the moment if it would be ok MOT wise.

Cheers, John

[Wedg1e]

The RV8 is a lovely simple engine and is quite forgiving of unsympathetic thrash-merchants and monkey mechanics... plenty of spares out there as long as you avoid buying parts for early carb versions. My preference would be to hoist the engine out first and then tackle the gearbox as the combined unit is big and heavy.
Knocking and clattering is likely only going two ways- crank or cam. Pull the inlet manifold and valley gasket off with the engine still in the car and you'll be able to see the cam and followers.

[jgmadkit]

An update...

First chance to have a couple of days on the car was over the Christmas break. Got engine and gearbox out with the trusty manual engine hoist.





Got the N/S head off whilst the engine was still in the car and cylinders/pistonheads all looked ok, havn't done the O/S yet, I suspect this side maybe worse. Waiting on some bolts to arrive to bolt the engine onto my new SGS engine stand (Christmas prezzy from the missus)

General oil leek from sump and appears to be a leak from gearbox endplate. Difficult gear selection due to remote selector bushes non existent. Have already got replacements from ANC on ebay, and clutch slave cylinder leaking. Clutch looks ok. New slave cylinder and master cylinder already purchased.

Slight browning on some of the camshaft lobes, will get a better idea of overall condition of shaft and followers when I strip them down but I'm guessing they are on their way out.

Talking of the gearbox endplate. I took it off today and was surprised to have gearbox oil coming out of the lower bolt hole when I took one out, anyway it looks like all the bolts just go straight through the end casing. I'm going to order a new gasket but was wondering how best to get this endplate to seal. On it already was the gasket and some silicon gasket sealant. This clearly didn't work so was wondering what the best sealant is to use and will the bolts also need a sealant on the threads?



Cheers, John

[Brithunter]

As you have the unit out and gear box seperated might as well fit a new clutch. Easier to do it now than have to pull it apart in the car at a later date.

[adam quantrill]

Could the expensive knocking sound have been something as simple as the remote bushes needing replacing? (Which can be done in situ...)

[jgmadkit]

adam quantrill said:

Could the expensive knocking sound have been something as simple as the remote bushes needing replacing? (Which can be done in situ...)

No, definitely came from the engine

[mrzigazaga]

jgmadkit said:

an expensive knocking sound

Round here that would be the bailiffs ..

Seems a bit drastic pulling the engine & Box out without checking other factors mentioned first?.....But hey well done for taking it on....Can you please list any part numbers that can be inputted to the Wedge spares list at some point...

Cheers...Good luck with it, I hope you find the bugger....


Ziga

[jgmadkit]

mrzigazaga said:

Seems a bit drastic pulling the engine & Box out without checking other factors mentioned first?.....
Ziga

I like to play with oily bits.....there was multiple things I wanted to look at plus the whole engine and bay needs a good tidy up and paint so easier to do it with the engine out.

Thinking of tidying, i want the simple aluminium and matt black look, how did you do valve covers on your car, was thinking of doing matt black with ally ribs look.

[hillclimbmanic]

jgmadkit said:

I like to play with oily bits.....there was multiple things I wanted to look at plus the whole engine and bay needs a good tidy up and paint so easier to do it with the engine out.

Thinking of tidying, i want the simple aluminium and matt black look, how did you do valve covers on your car, was thinking of doing matt black with ally ribs look.

Satin paint, and masking tape

[jgmadkit]

Very nice indeed. I'm not aiming for as shiny as that, just clean ally will do for starters. Thought it would be a masking job but also wondered if it could be completely painted and then the paint sanded off the ribs.

[mrzigazaga]

jgmadkit said:

Very nice indeed. I'm not aiming for as shiny as that, just clean ally will do for starters. Thought it would be a masking job but also wondered if it could be completely painted and then the paint sanded off the ribs.

First you will need to thoroughly clean the outside and in, I use some hot wheels alloy wheel cleaner, The purple stuff....Then if you want polished fins then its best to polish them first to what finish you want and then smear a very thin layer of vaseline on some grease proof paper and gently lay the rocker cover down fins first...Don't press down too hard..Gently remove and repeat with the other, Possibly smearing what is left from the first go.

Then use a VHT primer and VHT paint..Then remove the paint from the fins with an old credit card or plastic scraper once you have finished spraying and has dried overnight...Do not use anything metal....Clean up and touch up any little areas thats needed...

I find using a heat gun on low to aid the drying of the primer (SP148) in between coats is good...You can normally do 3-4 coats one after the other, Leave over night and then spray 2-3 dry coats of top coat...i:e Dry with heat gun in between and have a final wet coat leaving to dry naturally overnight...It takes a few days for the paint to cure...

I always use these people...They are UK based.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&...

[Wedgefan]

jgmadkit said:

Talking of the gearbox endplate. I took it off today and was surprised to have gearbox oil coming out of the lower bolt hole when I took one out, anyway it looks like all the bolts just go straight through the end casing. I'm going to order a new gasket but was wondering how best to get this endplate to seal. On it already was the gasket and some silicon gasket sealant. This clearly didn't work so was wondering what the best sealant is to use and will the bolts also need a sealant on the threads?



Cheers, John

Hi John - are you also aware that the end plate also controls the end float on the gearbox shafts? - They are on tapered roller bearings. It would be worth checking the end float before sealing it all up again. The bolts just need a good thread lock/sealer on them.

Pete