Discussion
Planman: are you talking about the idle speed screw or the idle mixture screw?
I assume mixture since the speed is fairly easy as jmorgan says...
There's a fairly wide range over which the engine will run; a narrower band over which it'll run OK-ish and a spot-on setting that you'll probably never find!
If you've lost it completely, screw the screw fully-in (not too hard), then wind it out by about three turns. That should get the car started, though it may need a bit of throttle.
Now you need to screw in AND out from that setting, about half a turn at a time, until you work out a range over which it'll run without pedal assistance. Set the screw to the middle of that range and it's about as close as you'll get without a CO meter.
I assume mixture since the speed is fairly easy as jmorgan says...
There's a fairly wide range over which the engine will run; a narrower band over which it'll run OK-ish and a spot-on setting that you'll probably never find!
If you've lost it completely, screw the screw fully-in (not too hard), then wind it out by about three turns. That should get the car started, though it may need a bit of throttle.
Now you need to screw in AND out from that setting, about half a turn at a time, until you work out a range over which it'll run without pedal assistance. Set the screw to the middle of that range and it's about as close as you'll get without a CO meter.
Thanks for the advice. Basically adjusting the idle screw (one in recess opposite vaccum hose outlet) is makeing bugger all difference, so I think something else is failing (extra air valve?).
It was due to be driven to RT on sat but given this problem it is now going on transporter, as its getting beyond my skill (and time)level!
Frustrating beast.
p.s. it is starting and revving well (as I am sure my neighbours will testify :-), but moment I lift off gas it stalls.
>> Edited by planman350i on Monday 14th March 15:07
It was due to be driven to RT on sat but given this problem it is now going on transporter, as its getting beyond my skill (and time)level!
Frustrating beast.
p.s. it is starting and revving well (as I am sure my neighbours will testify :-), but moment I lift off gas it stalls.
>> Edited by planman350i on Monday 14th March 15:07
you may be able to tweek the throttle cable linkage (thus fudging the throttle pot) to give you a reason idle. If your gonna take it to RT then theres nothing to loose and you might save on the transporter.
It'l give you something to think about until Wedg1e gets back to you with a proper fix
It'l give you something to think about until Wedg1e gets back to you with a proper fix
i'll shut up now
Oh yeah, 300mV from the throttle pot...wedg1e said:
planman350i said:
wedg1e said:
Is it flap or hotwire injection?
flap
You done the usual then? (Ignition timing, 2 thou feeler gauge under throttle plate when fully-closed, no air leaks...)
Sadly you are speaking to somone with fairly limited mechanical skills!! How do you check that the ignition timing is correct (I take it you twist distributor to adjust...?), and where is throttle plate?
The engine is revving smoothly as soon as you give it some juice. No stuttering etc. But the idle screw seemed to make absoulutely no difference. Checked air inlet hose for leaks etc.
P.s. Just read the ECU guide on wdge pages and it says that if idle screw makes no diference the throttle bypass is blocked. Anyone care to describe waht the throttle bypass looks like...?
>> Edited by planman350i on Monday 14th March 20:20
planman350i said:
Sadly you are speaking to somone with fairly limited mechanical skills!! How do you check that the ignition timing is correct (I take it you twist distributor to adjust...?), and where is throttle plate?
Under the circumstances, I suggest you stay the
away from the ignition timing! It is curious that the idle adjustment screw doesn't raise the idle speed. Did you fiddle with the throttle stop too? Maybe that's allowing the throttle to close too far so the idle adjustment can't provide enough air to keep it going. The throttle stop also gives a convenient way to wind the idle up, not ideal but good enough to get you to the garage. (Still reckon you could drive it there anyway, but it's your call.)Did not fiddle with anything else really. What I did establish was if I blew into the rubber pipe connecting into side of idle screw housing there was no major restriction when idle screw undone. However if I blew into same pipe towards where it goes back into the rear of the plenum there is a restriction.
If that makes any sense!
If that makes any sense!
Hang on while I nip out to the garage....
Right: if this pipe is the one I think it is, one way it goes to the overrun valve (rear of plenum) which should be shut anyway.
The other way, it goes to the auxiliary air valve, which would be open with the engine cold (you'd get some restriction, but not a lot to your lungs). If you can't get any flow at all, it may be that the AAV is stuck shut, which would give you trouble during warmup but wouldn't affect running if you could get the engine warmed up....
In fact the very symptoms you describe: won't run if you take your foot off. What happens if you keep your foot on till it's warm (ie temp gauge showing more than about 60 degrees)?
>> Edited by wedg1e on Monday 14th March 20:56
>> Edited by wedg1e on Monday 14th March 20:58
Right: if this pipe is the one I think it is, one way it goes to the overrun valve (rear of plenum) which should be shut anyway.
The other way, it goes to the auxiliary air valve, which would be open with the engine cold (you'd get some restriction, but not a lot to your lungs). If you can't get any flow at all, it may be that the AAV is stuck shut, which would give you trouble during warmup but wouldn't affect running if you could get the engine warmed up....
In fact the very symptoms you describe: won't run if you take your foot off. What happens if you keep your foot on till it's warm (ie temp gauge showing more than about 60 degrees)?
>> Edited by wedg1e on Monday 14th March 20:56
>> Edited by wedg1e on Monday 14th March 20:58
Thanks for looking Wedg1e - much appreciated! It was the pipe back to the overun valve which had the restriction so from what you say that sounds normal. Have not tried blowing back towards aav but I warmed it up to normal temp a few times at wkend and it made no difference to idle.
Its been laid up for a few months - when I spoke to RT on sat he said its possible that theres a blockage somewhere and best thing to do is to give it a thraping on mway for 15 miles. Problem with this is the cut off issue - don't feel confident driving as is.
Suppose alternative is good thraping outside house but not the same and I will probably get a noise abatement notice!
Thanks for trying anyway.
Its been laid up for a few months - when I spoke to RT on sat he said its possible that theres a blockage somewhere and best thing to do is to give it a thraping on mway for 15 miles. Problem with this is the cut off issue - don't feel confident driving as is.
Suppose alternative is good thraping outside house but not the same and I will probably get a noise abatement notice!
Thanks for trying anyway.
planman350i said:
Thanks for looking Wedg1e - much appreciated! It was the pipe back to the overun valve which had the restriction so from what you say that sounds normal. Have not tried blowing back towards aav but I warmed it up to normal temp a few times at wkend and it made no difference to idle.
Its been laid up for a few months - when I spoke to RT on sat he said its possible that theres a blockage somewhere and best thing to do is to give it a thraping on mway for 15 miles. Problem with this is the cut off issue - don't feel confident driving as is.
Suppose alternative is good thraping outside house but not the same and I will probably get a noise abatement notice!
Thanks for trying anyway.
No probs, it'll be something daft, it always is....
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