First time wedge owner, restoration questions
Discussion
Hello, I am just picked up my 350i as my first Tvr!
She has sat for three years but looks in good condition having same owner for last 15years and what looks like genuine 54k on the clock.
I have managed to get her fired up after a few fuel leaks but have a little and growing list of jobs to do and need a little help to source parts and info.
1. Clutch is seized on and didn't want to play ball with the old jack the rear and try the brake when running. I will pop the slave cylinder out to make sure it's working but suspect it is a new clutch job and therefore engine out. Assuming it is where is best to source replacement clutch? Also assume worth tackling what feel sloppy gear selection, I am assuming bushes in a remote linkage? If so where is best to get parts or get new selector to bolt on?
2. Drivers side head lamp motor I managed to get working but is slow and making unpleasant sound/vibration where can you source replacement or refurb units?
3. The car has had the fuse board and relays so wired into the passenger footwell but none of the legends in the manual match. I have 12 relays in pairs 6x2 is this in any way standard and could I get a legend from anywhere?
4. When the battery is connect the front light are always on regardless of pods or switch of/down. I am guessing a stuck relay or incorrectly wired, where can I can new relays, I am think prob best to replace them all?
5. Brakes seems to work including hand brake, any tips on changes discs and pads and where is best to source parts? I can be spirited in driving so pos look to upgrade if taking part.
6. Can you get a rear roll bar that fits snide the hood?
I live in Crawley West Sussex and fear if I need to take the engine out it is best done by a professional with the right equipment any recommendation on a garage I could get a quote from?
No doubt more to come the more I get into things. Can't wait to get her rolling and motd for first drive.
Thanks
She has sat for three years but looks in good condition having same owner for last 15years and what looks like genuine 54k on the clock.
I have managed to get her fired up after a few fuel leaks but have a little and growing list of jobs to do and need a little help to source parts and info.
1. Clutch is seized on and didn't want to play ball with the old jack the rear and try the brake when running. I will pop the slave cylinder out to make sure it's working but suspect it is a new clutch job and therefore engine out. Assuming it is where is best to source replacement clutch? Also assume worth tackling what feel sloppy gear selection, I am assuming bushes in a remote linkage? If so where is best to get parts or get new selector to bolt on?
2. Drivers side head lamp motor I managed to get working but is slow and making unpleasant sound/vibration where can you source replacement or refurb units?
3. The car has had the fuse board and relays so wired into the passenger footwell but none of the legends in the manual match. I have 12 relays in pairs 6x2 is this in any way standard and could I get a legend from anywhere?
4. When the battery is connect the front light are always on regardless of pods or switch of/down. I am guessing a stuck relay or incorrectly wired, where can I can new relays, I am think prob best to replace them all?
5. Brakes seems to work including hand brake, any tips on changes discs and pads and where is best to source parts? I can be spirited in driving so pos look to upgrade if taking part.
6. Can you get a rear roll bar that fits snide the hood?
I live in Crawley West Sussex and fear if I need to take the engine out it is best done by a professional with the right equipment any recommendation on a garage I could get a quote from?
No doubt more to come the more I get into things. Can't wait to get her rolling and motd for first drive.
Thanks
Jim-der08 said:
Hello, I am just picked up my 350i as my first Tvr!
She has sat for three years but looks in good condition having same owner for last 15years and what looks like genuine 54k on the clock.
I have managed to get her fired up after a few fuel leaks but have a little and growing list of jobs to do and need a little help to source parts and info.
1. Clutch is seized on and didn't want to play ball with the old jack the rear and try the brake when running. I will pop the slave cylinder out to make sure it's working but suspect it is a new clutch job and therefore engine out. Assuming it is where is best to source replacement clutch? Also assume worth tackling what feel sloppy gear selection, I am assuming bushes in a remote linkage? If so where is best to get parts or get new selector to bolt on?
2. Drivers side head lamp motor I managed to get working but is slow and making unpleasant sound/vibration where can you source replacement or refurb units?
3. The car has had the fuse board and relays so wired into the passenger footwell but none of the legends in the manual match. I have 12 relays in pairs 6x2 is this in any way standard and could I get a legend from anywhere?
4. When the battery is connect the front light are always on regardless of pods or switch of/down. I am guessing a stuck relay or incorrectly wired, where can I can new relays, I am think prob best to replace them all?
5. Brakes seems to work including hand brake, any tips on changes discs and pads and where is best to source parts? I can be spirited in driving so pos look to upgrade if taking part.
6. Can you get a rear roll bar that fits snide the hood?
I live in Crawley West Sussex and fear if I need to take the engine out it is best done by a professional with the right equipment any recommendation on a garage I could get a quote from?
No doubt more to come the more I get into things. Can't wait to get her rolling and motd for first drive.
Thanks
Hi and welcome to the mad world of Wedges...She has sat for three years but looks in good condition having same owner for last 15years and what looks like genuine 54k on the clock.
I have managed to get her fired up after a few fuel leaks but have a little and growing list of jobs to do and need a little help to source parts and info.
1. Clutch is seized on and didn't want to play ball with the old jack the rear and try the brake when running. I will pop the slave cylinder out to make sure it's working but suspect it is a new clutch job and therefore engine out. Assuming it is where is best to source replacement clutch? Also assume worth tackling what feel sloppy gear selection, I am assuming bushes in a remote linkage? If so where is best to get parts or get new selector to bolt on?
2. Drivers side head lamp motor I managed to get working but is slow and making unpleasant sound/vibration where can you source replacement or refurb units?
3. The car has had the fuse board and relays so wired into the passenger footwell but none of the legends in the manual match. I have 12 relays in pairs 6x2 is this in any way standard and could I get a legend from anywhere?
4. When the battery is connect the front light are always on regardless of pods or switch of/down. I am guessing a stuck relay or incorrectly wired, where can I can new relays, I am think prob best to replace them all?
5. Brakes seems to work including hand brake, any tips on changes discs and pads and where is best to source parts? I can be spirited in driving so pos look to upgrade if taking part.
6. Can you get a rear roll bar that fits snide the hood?
I live in Crawley West Sussex and fear if I need to take the engine out it is best done by a professional with the right equipment any recommendation on a garage I could get a quote from?
No doubt more to come the more I get into things. Can't wait to get her rolling and motd for first drive.
Thanks
There is a parts its at the top of the forum page that may help but the Wedge fraternity will also be a great source of information.
1. You can buy a new clutch kit from most Land Rover stockists..Discovery 1 V8 EFI...Buy the best you can afford, I know that some experienced people have replaced the clutch without removing the engine...Hopefully they can explain how to.
The gear box is an LT77 again people have recently replaced the parts you mention..There are some recent posts if you have a scroll down the page...
2. You can obtain reconditioned headlamp motors on an exchange basis from Robsport international.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
3. That sounds normal...Some have taken the time to rewire and design the relay board..They should be able to help.
4. Yes that does sound like a short...Check and clean all the earths...1. N/S suspension turret...2. N/S inner rocker cover area...3. Battery to engine...You can match the relays at most motor parts stores or online..
5. The front hubs are Granada mk2 and the rear brakes are inboard Jaguar XJS/6..You can buy a spacer kit for the original calipers which then take a larger vented disc or upgrade to Austin Princess 4-pot calipers..Bigg brakes or Wilwood, Again there are people who have done this who will be able to help more.
6. Yes but i know not of anyone to recommend unfortunately.
7...be careful as there are some rubbish mechanics out there even under the TVR banner!...
Good luck with everything...
Cheers
Ziga
Crawley? Certainly not Austec or anything connected with the owner. Google search will inform you of the mess surrounding them. This thread is not a place to repeat it again.
No need for a specialist to remove the engine just a competent mechanic. Quirky it maybe but it is not rocket science. Dan Taylor in Kent is well thought of. UKDJ on here offers a mobile service out of Kent.
No need for a specialist to remove the engine just a competent mechanic. Quirky it maybe but it is not rocket science. Dan Taylor in Kent is well thought of. UKDJ on here offers a mobile service out of Kent.
Headlamp pod motors are ex-TR7 or Lotus Esprit.
You can strip and overhaul them youself quite easily, see here for electrical description and a photo essay...:
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p6.htm
Used motors do apear on the bay of evil but are often as rough as a badger's nadgers so IMHO you're better off trying to save the ones you have, where skills permit.
You could try wedging the clutch pedal down overnight with a length of timber, tha sometimes frees a stuck clutch.
Original relay panels were built-up from clip-together relay sockets so the arrangement often doesn't match the published diagrams. If you identify the circuits from the wiring colours it's possible to rebuild to match a given diagram... but probably easier just to draw your own for the car. Note that on most cars about half the panel is given over to just the headlamp lifts!
You can strip and overhaul them youself quite easily, see here for electrical description and a photo essay...:
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p6.htm
Used motors do apear on the bay of evil but are often as rough as a badger's nadgers so IMHO you're better off trying to save the ones you have, where skills permit.
You could try wedging the clutch pedal down overnight with a length of timber, tha sometimes frees a stuck clutch.
Original relay panels were built-up from clip-together relay sockets so the arrangement often doesn't match the published diagrams. If you identify the circuits from the wiring colours it's possible to rebuild to match a given diagram... but probably easier just to draw your own for the car. Note that on most cars about half the panel is given over to just the headlamp lifts!
Edited by Wedg1e on Thursday 6th October 13:36
Welcome aboard and best of luck with item No1
Clutch Replacement TVR350i
I followed Adam Quantril’s guide from the Pistonheads Wedge Forum. I estimate the whole process took 8-10 hours over a period of several days, due to work etc. I also had to wait for the new clutch as I was advised not to order a replacement until I had the old one for reference. Mine was 241mm for a 1” 23 spline shaft. I replaced all three parts of the clutch and inspected the fork and pivot etc.
No specialist tools required just a lot a patience a few plasters and a spare pair of hands just for the splitting of the box/engine and also for putting them back together.
I had the rear wheels on a pair of standard car ramps. (Screwed into the garage floor to stop them sliding) I would have been happier with the front wheels on ramps as well. But I made do with a pair of axle stands as that’s all I had. So I removed the front wheels and always had them under the outriggers just in case. It would have been difficult to remove the engine mounts with the wheels on anyway.
Inside the engine bay
1. Disconnect the battery (You never know you might trap something)
2. Remove 2 x 8mm bolts securing remote oil filter bracket.
3. Remove front coolant hose from front of engine next to the forward filler cap.
4. Remove jubilee clip from the Plenum and remove hose.
Under the car
1. Remove the 3 x 8mm bolts from the rear exhaust joint.
2. Remove the 4 x 8mm bolts from the exhaust manifolds.
3. Remove the 2 x 8mm nuts securing the exhaust silencer to the chassis and remove silencer and link pipe.
4. Remove the 4 x 8mm? (14mm Spanner) from the gearbox output shaft/prop shaft. You can just about do this with two long reach extension bars and a 14mm spanner. You will be there for ages with 2 spanners. A 14mm ratchet spanner would be nice. Move the prop shaft up and to the near side of the car.
5. Slacken off but DO NOT remove the top 2 x 8mm bolts for the gearbox remote lever mount.
6. Remove the 2 x 8mm bolts one from each side of the gearbox remote lever mount.
7. The back of the remote will now drop down with a gentle pull and almost touch the output shaft. This will allow enough room for raising the rear of the gearbox later.
8. Using a 13mm open ended spanner slacken off, or remove if you can the 2 x 8mm nuts from the rear gearbox mounting bushes.
9. Take a trolley jack and a 2” thick piece of timber about the size of the bottom of the sump. Using the timber on top of the jack foot. Support the weight of the engine under the sump. Lift the weight of the engine just enough to take the weight off the engine mounts.
10. Remove the 8mm bolts from each engine mount (One mount each side 4 bolts in total).
11. Remove the 2 x 10mm bolts securing the engine mount to the nearside of the engine to completely remove the mount. No need to do the same on the off side as it is not in the way. (You may not need to do this but my nearside was stopping the engine moving forward enough due to catching on the chassis)
12. Remove the 2 x 8mm bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder. Tie the slave cylinder out of harms way to the chassis with a tie wrap.
13. Use a second trolley jack to support the weight of the gearbox, lifting it just slightly to take the weight off the mounts.
14. Carefully pull the engine forward about 2”. This will allow you to completely remove the gearbox mounting nuts if you haven’t already.
15. Remove the gearbox to engine bolts mine had 8mm around the top and sides of the bell housing and 2 x 8mm on the underside along with 4 x 6mm also on the underside securing a cover plate.
16. Now the fun starts. By what ever means you can try to separate the gearbox from the engine. I was pretty lucky with this. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bell housing where the cover plate was removed. I was able to get a very large screw driver/small crow bar in there and the box came apart. (It may be worth refitting the slave cylinder to see if operation of the clutch pedal will help?)
17. You need about 4-5” to remove the clutch and it’s still very tight. The only way I could achieve this amount of space was to very carefully lower the engine onto another means of support. Timber and axle stands seemed to work for me. Reposition the trolley jack and timber to the very front part of the sump.
18. Reposition the gearbox trolley jack to the rear of the gearbox and jack it up as far as it will go. Remember the remote will hit the tunnel so don’t go too far. You will also need to get the gearbox back as far as it will go. You will see that the bottom of the box will hit the chassis cross member. No matter what you do it wont go back any more!
19. Jack the front of the engine up. You will have to take it steady and a spare pair of eyes would be nice. I ended up going approx 4” (There was no way I could get the manifolds past the bell housing without doing this). At this stage with a bit of a jiggle you should be able to get the gearbox input shaft clear of the clutch cover plate. This method means you have a bit more room on the lower side of the gearbox but little room at the top. But as you are under the car it seems to work. AT THIS STAGE IF YOU DECIDE FOR WHAT EVER REASON TO CALL IT A NIGHT OR GO FOR A CUPPA. DO NOT SHUT THE BONNET! Even after this point don’t shut the bonnet until the engine is safely back on its mounts!
20. Remove the clutch cover plate using a 13mm ratchet spanner. Be careful when you take the last couple of bolts out the clutch is surprisingly heavy when it’s only 6” from your nose.
Refitting the clutch and reassembly
1. Refitting the clutch and reassembly of the car is pretty much the exact reverse of the above. The worst job now is aligning the clutch and cover plate. This is made even more difficult due to the close proximity of the input shaft. I had no spare input shaft to use as an alignment tool so had to improvise. I used a ½” drive long reach/deep 14mm socket. I then inserted a ¼”drive long reach/deep 8mm socket into the ½” drive side of the larger socket. I used 3 layers of insulation tape to make this a tight fit. This worked first time and was a perfect fit. Still a bit of a struggle though! (See Pic)
Clutch Replacement TVR350i
I followed Adam Quantril’s guide from the Pistonheads Wedge Forum. I estimate the whole process took 8-10 hours over a period of several days, due to work etc. I also had to wait for the new clutch as I was advised not to order a replacement until I had the old one for reference. Mine was 241mm for a 1” 23 spline shaft. I replaced all three parts of the clutch and inspected the fork and pivot etc.
No specialist tools required just a lot a patience a few plasters and a spare pair of hands just for the splitting of the box/engine and also for putting them back together.
I had the rear wheels on a pair of standard car ramps. (Screwed into the garage floor to stop them sliding) I would have been happier with the front wheels on ramps as well. But I made do with a pair of axle stands as that’s all I had. So I removed the front wheels and always had them under the outriggers just in case. It would have been difficult to remove the engine mounts with the wheels on anyway.
Inside the engine bay
1. Disconnect the battery (You never know you might trap something)
2. Remove 2 x 8mm bolts securing remote oil filter bracket.
3. Remove front coolant hose from front of engine next to the forward filler cap.
4. Remove jubilee clip from the Plenum and remove hose.
Under the car
1. Remove the 3 x 8mm bolts from the rear exhaust joint.
2. Remove the 4 x 8mm bolts from the exhaust manifolds.
3. Remove the 2 x 8mm nuts securing the exhaust silencer to the chassis and remove silencer and link pipe.
4. Remove the 4 x 8mm? (14mm Spanner) from the gearbox output shaft/prop shaft. You can just about do this with two long reach extension bars and a 14mm spanner. You will be there for ages with 2 spanners. A 14mm ratchet spanner would be nice. Move the prop shaft up and to the near side of the car.
5. Slacken off but DO NOT remove the top 2 x 8mm bolts for the gearbox remote lever mount.
6. Remove the 2 x 8mm bolts one from each side of the gearbox remote lever mount.
7. The back of the remote will now drop down with a gentle pull and almost touch the output shaft. This will allow enough room for raising the rear of the gearbox later.
8. Using a 13mm open ended spanner slacken off, or remove if you can the 2 x 8mm nuts from the rear gearbox mounting bushes.
9. Take a trolley jack and a 2” thick piece of timber about the size of the bottom of the sump. Using the timber on top of the jack foot. Support the weight of the engine under the sump. Lift the weight of the engine just enough to take the weight off the engine mounts.
10. Remove the 8mm bolts from each engine mount (One mount each side 4 bolts in total).
11. Remove the 2 x 10mm bolts securing the engine mount to the nearside of the engine to completely remove the mount. No need to do the same on the off side as it is not in the way. (You may not need to do this but my nearside was stopping the engine moving forward enough due to catching on the chassis)
12. Remove the 2 x 8mm bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder. Tie the slave cylinder out of harms way to the chassis with a tie wrap.
13. Use a second trolley jack to support the weight of the gearbox, lifting it just slightly to take the weight off the mounts.
14. Carefully pull the engine forward about 2”. This will allow you to completely remove the gearbox mounting nuts if you haven’t already.
15. Remove the gearbox to engine bolts mine had 8mm around the top and sides of the bell housing and 2 x 8mm on the underside along with 4 x 6mm also on the underside securing a cover plate.
16. Now the fun starts. By what ever means you can try to separate the gearbox from the engine. I was pretty lucky with this. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bell housing where the cover plate was removed. I was able to get a very large screw driver/small crow bar in there and the box came apart. (It may be worth refitting the slave cylinder to see if operation of the clutch pedal will help?)
17. You need about 4-5” to remove the clutch and it’s still very tight. The only way I could achieve this amount of space was to very carefully lower the engine onto another means of support. Timber and axle stands seemed to work for me. Reposition the trolley jack and timber to the very front part of the sump.
18. Reposition the gearbox trolley jack to the rear of the gearbox and jack it up as far as it will go. Remember the remote will hit the tunnel so don’t go too far. You will also need to get the gearbox back as far as it will go. You will see that the bottom of the box will hit the chassis cross member. No matter what you do it wont go back any more!
19. Jack the front of the engine up. You will have to take it steady and a spare pair of eyes would be nice. I ended up going approx 4” (There was no way I could get the manifolds past the bell housing without doing this). At this stage with a bit of a jiggle you should be able to get the gearbox input shaft clear of the clutch cover plate. This method means you have a bit more room on the lower side of the gearbox but little room at the top. But as you are under the car it seems to work. AT THIS STAGE IF YOU DECIDE FOR WHAT EVER REASON TO CALL IT A NIGHT OR GO FOR A CUPPA. DO NOT SHUT THE BONNET! Even after this point don’t shut the bonnet until the engine is safely back on its mounts!
20. Remove the clutch cover plate using a 13mm ratchet spanner. Be careful when you take the last couple of bolts out the clutch is surprisingly heavy when it’s only 6” from your nose.
Refitting the clutch and reassembly
1. Refitting the clutch and reassembly of the car is pretty much the exact reverse of the above. The worst job now is aligning the clutch and cover plate. This is made even more difficult due to the close proximity of the input shaft. I had no spare input shaft to use as an alignment tool so had to improvise. I used a ½” drive long reach/deep 14mm socket. I then inserted a ¼”drive long reach/deep 8mm socket into the ½” drive side of the larger socket. I used 3 layers of insulation tape to make this a tight fit. This worked first time and was a perfect fit. Still a bit of a struggle though! (See Pic)
Edited by Yatesy350i on Thursday 6th October 14:20
1. I would definitely try any quick tricks to free the clutch because they usually only take a few minutes as opposed to 8 hours. Either tow start the car and then brake with your foot also on the clutch. Or attempt to start it in 4th gear with your foot on the clutch.
2. Did I hear someone dunks their headlamp motors in a bucket of oil for a week which effects a refurb?
Welcome to the world of wedges - you made a great choice for your first TVR!
2. Did I hear someone dunks their headlamp motors in a bucket of oil for a week which effects a refurb?
Welcome to the world of wedges - you made a great choice for your first TVR!
There are a fair few "stuck clutch" forums on PH. Here's one that looks to cover all bases:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Stuck clutch
Gentler on starter motor and battery if they are a bit old/dodgy ...
Have someone sit in the car, select 4th gear, operate clutch. Check lever moves first....if it does, it's probably not the hydraulics.
Get some mates to 'bump push' the car back and forwards, all suddenly shove together. car will bounce back slightly if clutch still stuck, you can get into a rhythm quite quickly
I've had that work several times ....
Most of the bits, electrical, engine etc are all standard autoparts, so think more 'kit car' and we can help with where stuff comes from !!
Gentler on starter motor and battery if they are a bit old/dodgy ...
Have someone sit in the car, select 4th gear, operate clutch. Check lever moves first....if it does, it's probably not the hydraulics.
Get some mates to 'bump push' the car back and forwards, all suddenly shove together. car will bounce back slightly if clutch still stuck, you can get into a rhythm quite quickly
I've had that work several times ....
Most of the bits, electrical, engine etc are all standard autoparts, so think more 'kit car' and we can help with where stuff comes from !!
Thanks to everyone for advice. Lots to do hopefully get her out and on the road soon.
Minor update got the clutch working after pulling the slave cylinder and giving it a bit of encouragement, likewise to the release arm and we are off and running.
Minor update got the clutch working after pulling the slave cylinder and giving it a bit of encouragement, likewise to the release arm and we are off and running.
Edited by Jim-der08 on Saturday 8th October 19:10
I had a stuck clutch in the past which refused to free off no matter what I did. A friend advised me to get the engine thoroughly warmed through before trying to free it off. I got a push down the road in gear with the clutch pedal down then gently accelerated and decelerated, the clutch popped within 100 yards.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Easier to take the engine out - IMO. When doing so put the engine crane at a right angle to the engine bay using a load lifter to tilt the engine in and out. I did this on my own so it can be done although another pair of hands is always useful. Once the everything's out you can sort out so much. I used the opportunity the replace my brake lines with a braided type going to the rear brakes etc...
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