Tasmin 280i Switch Panel Question
Tasmin 280i Switch Panel Question
Author
Discussion

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
This is the switch panel which sits in the centre console/transmission tunnel cover.



The question is; what is the bottom right-hand switch for? The legend has fallen off and flicking the switch doesn't seem to do anything. This is the connector...



Thanks in advance

Wedg1e

27,002 posts

287 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
Dead easy, the wire colours will tell you.

Oh, wait... biggrin

gmw9666

2,739 posts

222 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
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For gods sake don't connect it ;-)


v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
claprofl

mrzigazaga

18,740 posts

187 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
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gmw9666 said:
For gods sake don't connect it ;-)

laugh...
Reminds me of my Targa panel going for a burton at 70 mph on a busy motorway...yikes

Wedgeone

33 posts

141 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
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Hi joe. Your swtch should turn on and off the instrument lights. Cheers Richard.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
It's a three position switch (off/on/on). That doesn't seem like the right type of switch for the instrument lights. Have I got the wrong switch in here then? Should it be a simple on/off one?

Wedgeone

33 posts

141 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
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Just checked original owners manual. It is 3 position. Off, bright, and dim.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for checking. If it's anything like the 'S' it will be off, dim & dimmer still laugh

Mr Tank

5,797 posts

297 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
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Hi

Is your car a convertible or a fixed head ?

Andy

gmw9666

2,739 posts

222 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
Mr Tank said:
Hi

Is your car a convertible or a fixed head ?

Andy
Ah, electric folding roof switch or sunroof lol jester

On a serious note though, my old s1 I'm sure just had the window switches in that location.....but I have drank a bottle of red so a little hazy


Wedg1e

27,002 posts

287 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
Wedgeone said:
Just checked original owners manual. It is 3 position. Off, bright, and dim.
The Lucas tradition was Dim, Flicker and Off wink

Essentially they wound several feet of panel wire into a coil and hid it behind the switch; with the extra wire in series it created extra resistance which made the dash lights dimmer. TVR used exactly the same idea to get the slow and fast speeds on teh early Tasmin's heater fan: it was only a single speed motor but with a mile of wire in line it reduced the motor speed (and heated up the wre coil behind the dash rolleyes.
Later cars got a proper multispeed fan (although it was still cr4p when you compare it to what Peugeot and Renault were fitting in the early 1980s - proper fans that would give you big hair - well it was the 1980s whistle).

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Thursday 13th October 2016
quotequote all
Mr Tank said:
...Is your car a convertible or a fixed head?...
FHC

Mr Tank

5,797 posts

297 months

Friday 14th October 2016
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v8s4me said:
Mr Tank said:
...Is your car a convertible or a fixed head?...
FHC
Hi
I hope this helps it confirms what some people have said.




Andy

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Friday 14th October 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Andy. I checked it today but the panel lights don't work so there is a fault in the wiring somewhere. It's not a fuse so this will be a little problem for another day.

Thanks again for the responses.

mrzigazaga

18,740 posts

187 months

Friday 14th October 2016
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I like the idea of No.9....My 1982 280i DHC had the little pins on the door closers that turn the interior lights off...The worst one was the under dash light on the drivers side just above your right knee..I remember knocking that on getting out the car during the day...Then covering the Wedge up for a couple of days and then wondering why the battery was flat...I only twigged when i forgot something one day that i had left in the car...I had realised in the evening so when i took the cover off i could see the light on..Bugger...That bulb was removed!

JamesMK

556 posts

273 months

Saturday 15th October 2016
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Also referring to Autocar, August 1980 - switches are for window lifts, interior lights (one in the rear which mine doesn't have, plus under the dash each side) and panel lighting.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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Wedg1e said:
....Essentially they wound several feet of panel wire into a coil and hid it behind the switch; with the extra wire in series it created extra resistance which made the dash lights dimmer........
So that would explain this little bundle of nonsense....



Wedg1e said:
.... TVR used exactly the same idea to get the slow and fast speeds on the early Tasmin's heater fan: ......
On mine they used the brass insert from a connector block!!!!



If this is what passed for "engineering" or "design" in the 1980's then it's incredible that TVR survived as long as it did when, for 2/3rds the money, a punter could have bought a well engineered Datsun 280Z. Mind you, the same punter could have spent more on an equally dodgy Lotus laugh

Edited by v8s4me on Tuesday 18th October 09:52

adam quantrill

11,625 posts

264 months

Tuesday 18th October 2016
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You have to bear in mind that this was common practice (state of the art?) in the '70s where the engineers would have cut their teeth elsewhere.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

241 months

Tuesday 18th October 2016
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
You have to bear in mind that this was common practice (state of the art?) in the '70s .....
At TVR maybe. I can't see Porsche, Mercedes, Jaguar etc using bits from the scrap box when proper ballast resistors were readily and cheaply available. I'm wondering if it's worth doing the job properly now and fitting ballast resistors, at least to the heater. Apart from working out the correct resistance to use, I suppose the only issue is how much heat they will give off and therefore where to mount them.

Any electrical wizards out there able to suggest the correct resistance to get two speeds from the heater?