Head conversion for the 280I
Discussion
shpub
Unfortunately I live in the states and that's going to be easier said than done. I will be dropping a turbo technics conversion in soon and I am looking to get the unit breathing at it's best to help with any boost issues. I have already put a lot of time and money into the 2.8 block with forged pistons and such, so the heads appear to be my best option, but I don't know if the 2.9 items will fit?
Thanks
tvrman01
Unfortunately I live in the states and that's going to be easier said than done. I will be dropping a turbo technics conversion in soon and I am looking to get the unit breathing at it's best to help with any boost issues. I have already put a lot of time and money into the 2.8 block with forged pistons and such, so the heads appear to be my best option, but I don't know if the 2.9 items will fit?
Thanks
tvrman01
As Steve said, swapping it all would be the best option, see this site for a decent description of what's needed, a lot.......
https://www.burtonpower.com/technical/tt_taunus.html
cheers
Dave
https://www.burtonpower.com/technical/tt_taunus.html
cheers
Dave
John,
If I remember, you were going to start a turbo mod. last summer. How is it coming? It sounds like a great combination. Grady replied to this question back in Dec. He suggested www.therangerstation.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=6
This is a site for Ford ranger pick-ups but there is a lot of V6 knowledge there. Another is www.teamblitz.com also from PH member "Grady". I have heard that some of the Mustang II's had three port heads on the 2.8s. When I couldn't find a source for these heads, I gave up on the engine. Those heads are the key to that engines performance.
Please keep me posted if you find a head, intake combination that works. Allan
If I remember, you were going to start a turbo mod. last summer. How is it coming? It sounds like a great combination. Grady replied to this question back in Dec. He suggested www.therangerstation.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=6
This is a site for Ford ranger pick-ups but there is a lot of V6 knowledge there. Another is www.teamblitz.com also from PH member "Grady". I have heard that some of the Mustang II's had three port heads on the 2.8s. When I couldn't find a source for these heads, I gave up on the engine. Those heads are the key to that engines performance.
Please keep me posted if you find a head, intake combination that works. Allan
302wedge
Thanks for the website shortcuts, I have checked them out and there is some useful info on there. Having done some research on this by now it looks like the 2.9I heads are a non starter. There's just too much involved for it to be worth the effort. I keep hearing about the 2.8I 3 port heads over here in the states, but they must be extremely rare because I have placed posts on many capri and ford forums and I am still none the wiser?
Yes, I am still working on my turbo conversion, but house remodeling is holding things up a bit. It may be next year before it's back on the road again. It started as just a turbo install and now It's a major strip down and rebuild.
Your 5.0ltr conversion looks to be coming along nicely. It will be interesting to hear how she peforms after transplanting that monster into her. I hope you have upgraded your brakes, becuase I know that the standard brakes on my wedge just wouldn't live with that kind of performance. I purchased a set of tvr tuscan big brakes and 4 pot calipers, so I should be good for the turbo application.
tvrman01
Thanks for the website shortcuts, I have checked them out and there is some useful info on there. Having done some research on this by now it looks like the 2.9I heads are a non starter. There's just too much involved for it to be worth the effort. I keep hearing about the 2.8I 3 port heads over here in the states, but they must be extremely rare because I have placed posts on many capri and ford forums and I am still none the wiser?
Yes, I am still working on my turbo conversion, but house remodeling is holding things up a bit. It may be next year before it's back on the road again. It started as just a turbo install and now It's a major strip down and rebuild.
Your 5.0ltr conversion looks to be coming along nicely. It will be interesting to hear how she peforms after transplanting that monster into her. I hope you have upgraded your brakes, becuase I know that the standard brakes on my wedge just wouldn't live with that kind of performance. I purchased a set of tvr tuscan big brakes and 4 pot calipers, so I should be good for the turbo application.
tvrman01
Lots of interesting modifications needed. Which Tuscan are we talking about? Racer or road car. Racer shouldn't be an issue but spacing the callipers etc to get the fit could be and they all had 16 inch+ diamter wheels so clearance on a 15 could be an issue.
If it is a road car, be aware that the Tuscan/Cerbera PCD is slightly different from that of the wedge and the only reason they fit is the stud holes are about 0.5 to 1 mm wider because the stud is 0.5 inch and not 12 mm. As a result they don't fit snugly and under high braking forces in particular will start to move and oval out the holes. Not recommended.
Steve
If it is a road car, be aware that the Tuscan/Cerbera PCD is slightly different from that of the wedge and the only reason they fit is the stud holes are about 0.5 to 1 mm wider because the stud is 0.5 inch and not 12 mm. As a result they don't fit snugly and under high braking forces in particular will start to move and oval out the holes. Not recommended.
Steve
try tightening your wheels up steve 
it's the clamping force of wheel on disc on hub that stops it turning, not the wheel studs .. if the disc is moving then the wheel must be on teh hub, that'll put a lot of side loading on the studs, they may break off. that needs investigating asap imo...
it's the clamping force of wheel on disc on hub that stops it turning, not the wheel studs .. if the disc is moving then the wheel must be on teh hub, that'll put a lot of side loading on the studs, they may break off. that needs investigating asap imo... Not on a wedge it isn't. The disc is bolted to the inside of the hub and is effectively located by a flange on the inside. This fit can be so tight that a press is needed to remove the disc. This maintains the disc in its the correct position. The hub/disc bolts then clamp it in place. These are independent of the wheel which has its own studs.
The Cerbie/Tuscan discs have a different flange so the flange doesn't locate the disc at all. The location is effectively use the bolts etc to maintain the position. As the PCD isn't right the disc rubs on the studs and it is just this that locates it in place. Not good IMHO...
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 22 March 08:14
The Cerbie/Tuscan discs have a different flange so the flange doesn't locate the disc at all. The location is effectively use the bolts etc to maintain the position. As the PCD isn't right the disc rubs on the studs and it is just this that locates it in place. Not good IMHO...
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 22 March 08:14
tvrman01
Iam beginning to doubt the existence of these heads, but don't give up. BRAKES, yes! I've been trying to keep focused on the engine conversion while collecting info on brakes. I've got to re-generate the exceitment before I start the next project and I think the stock brakes should do just that. The quick little engine swap has taken 9 months (can't do much in the winter here). My first drive in the car will be to the emmissions test, so I've got to do a few extra things like two exhust systems. One with a cat. and one that will clear a penny on the roadway.
Iam beginning to doubt the existence of these heads, but don't give up. BRAKES, yes! I've been trying to keep focused on the engine conversion while collecting info on brakes. I've got to re-generate the exceitment before I start the next project and I think the stock brakes should do just that. The quick little engine swap has taken 9 months (can't do much in the winter here). My first drive in the car will be to the emmissions test, so I've got to do a few extra things like two exhust systems. One with a cat. and one that will clear a penny on the roadway.
I purchased a big brake upgrade kit for the TVR Wedge models. This is a brand new kit which consists of custom grooved/drilled discs 300 x 28 with mounting bell and brackets. The brackets accept the latest TVR Tuscan AP 4-pot caliper with TVR logo.
The calipers were the biggest issue, because they are a very tight fit inside the OZ 5 spoke Split Rims that I wanted to use. They are 7,5 x 15 with a 27 offset. They are the same as on a 400 SE but ½ J smaller. Compared to the 350i standard offset of 23 this is well within limits. I did have to die grind a bit off the side of the calipers, but nothing to be concerned about, since there is still plenty of wall left on the billet stock. It's tight, but it all fits together nicely.
I originally purchased a rebuilt set of the older princess AP 4 pot calipers for this application, but when I got the chance to purchase the custom kit I changed direction. I am toying with the idea of adapting them to the rear axle inner disc set-up. I am not sure if there would be any significant gains in the braking balance since I have never heard of anybody doing so on a wedge, but it really doesn’t look that difficult of a conversion?
The calipers were the biggest issue, because they are a very tight fit inside the OZ 5 spoke Split Rims that I wanted to use. They are 7,5 x 15 with a 27 offset. They are the same as on a 400 SE but ½ J smaller. Compared to the 350i standard offset of 23 this is well within limits. I did have to die grind a bit off the side of the calipers, but nothing to be concerned about, since there is still plenty of wall left on the billet stock. It's tight, but it all fits together nicely.
I originally purchased a rebuilt set of the older princess AP 4 pot calipers for this application, but when I got the chance to purchase the custom kit I changed direction. I am toying with the idea of adapting them to the rear axle inner disc set-up. I am not sure if there would be any significant gains in the braking balance since I have never heard of anybody doing so on a wedge, but it really doesn’t look that difficult of a conversion?
302Wedge
I will keep looking for the heads, but I am currently resigned to the fact that I am going to have to port the Siamese heads and live with it. It’s strange that with all these 2.8 injection motors out there that nobody ever manufactured an after market set of heads for this lump.
Looking at the factory turbo which pumps out around 225bhp then even if I get to that level it’s a tremendous jump from the standard 150bhp, but more importantly is the additional torque that the turbo will provide.
Living in So Cal I don’t have many options with what I can do from an emissions standpoint. The turbo is easy, because I can drop the boost down for the smog test and bring it back up after. However changing the configuration of the single cat is not an option (that’s the first thing they look for). It has to be the same set up as from the factory. Otherwise I would run twin cats and twin pipes all the way back from the turbo.
I will keep looking for the heads, but I am currently resigned to the fact that I am going to have to port the Siamese heads and live with it. It’s strange that with all these 2.8 injection motors out there that nobody ever manufactured an after market set of heads for this lump.
Looking at the factory turbo which pumps out around 225bhp then even if I get to that level it’s a tremendous jump from the standard 150bhp, but more importantly is the additional torque that the turbo will provide.
Living in So Cal I don’t have many options with what I can do from an emissions standpoint. The turbo is easy, because I can drop the boost down for the smog test and bring it back up after. However changing the configuration of the single cat is not an option (that’s the first thing they look for). It has to be the same set up as from the factory. Otherwise I would run twin cats and twin pipes all the way back from the turbo.
For what it's worth...
The cat(s) have to be VERRRY close to this engine to get hot enough to work effectively. And as the factory discovery, there really no space up close.
I tried - on good advise - installing a pair of cats further back and they don't work. (I leave them on so I can claim a good faith try at passing)
Thanks to the unwelcome attention in prior presidential elections, Houston's pollution standards are only a 1/2 step behind SoCal although we have an low mileage exemption.
The cat(s) have to be VERRRY close to this engine to get hot enough to work effectively. And as the factory discovery, there really no space up close.
I tried - on good advise - installing a pair of cats further back and they don't work. (I leave them on so I can claim a good faith try at passing)
Thanks to the unwelcome attention in prior presidential elections, Houston's pollution standards are only a 1/2 step behind SoCal although we have an low mileage exemption.
Grady
I had been meaning to ask you how your bracket set up worked out? I was out of town a lot at the time on business and never got a chance to follow up with your last email. Did the sketches help out for your fabrication work? The program was Solidworks and the views that I sent you were in eDrawings.
Heat will not be an issue on my application, or at least getting the cat warm enought won't be with a turbo charger under the hood.
I had been meaning to ask you how your bracket set up worked out? I was out of town a lot at the time on business and never got a chance to follow up with your last email. Did the sketches help out for your fabrication work? The program was Solidworks and the views that I sent you were in eDrawings.
Heat will not be an issue on my application, or at least getting the cat warm enought won't be with a turbo charger under the hood.
Don't bother with fitting the princess callipers to the rear as the rear brakes are more than adequate. They also won't fit as they are not designed to take the handbrake assembly. You ought to consider changing the master cylinder though to allow more fluid to move as the four pots will require more fluid and this will result in a long pedal throw.
The other point is that I would recommend residual pressure valves as the tolerances in the front hub can lead to pad out with a big disc. The residual pressure ensures that the pads stay in contact and you don't have that heart stopping moment where the pedal goes to the floor and nothing happens. It works on the second push.
I have also thrown away the standard pressure regulator and fitted an adjustable one to tweak the balance.
The other point is that I would recommend residual pressure valves as the tolerances in the front hub can lead to pad out with a big disc. The residual pressure ensures that the pads stay in contact and you don't have that heart stopping moment where the pedal goes to the floor and nothing happens. It works on the second push.
I have also thrown away the standard pressure regulator and fitted an adjustable one to tweak the balance.
shpub
Thanks for the advice; I will definitely look into the Master cylinder and pressure valve issue before I get the car back on the road. I am sure that this must be something that has been done a lot on the race circuits?
daftlad
Finding 3 port heads for the cologne 2.8 motor is like trying to find the Holy Grail. I keep hearing that they are out there, but nobody seems to know where. I have spent many hours tracking down Ford Ranger truck owners and Capri owners hear in the states and as much as they say that they have heard of the US 3 port heads, none have actually seen them.
I did find some manifolds from Swaymar listed on a post and even a complete Swaymar Capri listed on a web site, but so far no heads. It would appear that the company is no longer in business? Thanks for the tip all the same, I will continue to look.
Thanks for the advice; I will definitely look into the Master cylinder and pressure valve issue before I get the car back on the road. I am sure that this must be something that has been done a lot on the race circuits?
daftlad
Finding 3 port heads for the cologne 2.8 motor is like trying to find the Holy Grail. I keep hearing that they are out there, but nobody seems to know where. I have spent many hours tracking down Ford Ranger truck owners and Capri owners hear in the states and as much as they say that they have heard of the US 3 port heads, none have actually seen them.
I did find some manifolds from Swaymar listed on a post and even a complete Swaymar Capri listed on a web site, but so far no heads. It would appear that the company is no longer in business? Thanks for the tip all the same, I will continue to look.
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