Headlamp motor issue fixed
Discussion
A quick shout out to Zig and to Wedgeneering.
Left hand headlamp pod would pop up but would not go back down. Started off just being a few seconds slower than the right but after a few weeks it wouldn't retract at all.
As advised by Zig I checked the relays first, by swapping them about - no change.
Took the plunge and pulled out the LH motor today, and replaced the diodes ( cost 40c). Hey presto, the motor is working like a charm again.
Thanks Gents!
Left hand headlamp pod would pop up but would not go back down. Started off just being a few seconds slower than the right but after a few weeks it wouldn't retract at all.
As advised by Zig I checked the relays first, by swapping them about - no change.
Took the plunge and pulled out the LH motor today, and replaced the diodes ( cost 40c). Hey presto, the motor is working like a charm again.
Thanks Gents!
Edited by 440Interceptor on Friday 30th June 07:53
440Interceptor said:
So you're saying those symptoms point specifically to a dodgy diode? I didn't know that. Still gotta pull it our to fix it though.
No. What I am stating is that the whole circuit can be checked before removing a headlampI am not convinced that you have found the original fault, my reasoning being that the diodes don't carry motor current, the diodes are in the relay switching circuit. If a diode failed, the relay would not be switched as it should be, a motor turning slower than it should be is caused by a fault within the motor or the motors control circuit to or from the relays, a slow motor can't be caused by a failing switching circuit unless the relay is chattering due to a failing diode and you would have heard the relay chattering.
You may have broke lucky but I doubt it very much, there is a good chance that you have freed off the motor/mechanism by removing it
Time will tell. If the headlamp does start misbehaving in the future you can test it all out without removing it
Very interesting thanks.
I described the symptom poorly. The LH motor was still working at normal speed, when it worked. I could drive to work, switch the lights off, and the LH pod would stay up. on checking the car say an hour later, it would have gone down without me touching the car. Eventually it stopped going down altogether.
Never had a problem raising though.
I thought (actually, assumed is a better word) the dash switch actuated both pods off one circuit. But given I haven't touched it, it seems unlikely that that is the culprit as the lights are working perfectly now.
Not sure what the two wires and the 3 pin plug each do, but maybe the unplugging/replugging helped, although i did inspect and clean them before everything else. They were pretty full of crud, which is unsurprising given the manual lift access hole under each pod.
As you say, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts!
I described the symptom poorly. The LH motor was still working at normal speed, when it worked. I could drive to work, switch the lights off, and the LH pod would stay up. on checking the car say an hour later, it would have gone down without me touching the car. Eventually it stopped going down altogether.
Never had a problem raising though.
I thought (actually, assumed is a better word) the dash switch actuated both pods off one circuit. But given I haven't touched it, it seems unlikely that that is the culprit as the lights are working perfectly now.
Not sure what the two wires and the 3 pin plug each do, but maybe the unplugging/replugging helped, although i did inspect and clean them before everything else. They were pretty full of crud, which is unsurprising given the manual lift access hole under each pod.
As you say, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts!
440Interceptor said:
Very interesting thanks.
I described the symptom poorly. The LH motor was still working at normal speed, when it worked. I could drive to work, switch the lights off, and the LH pod would stay up. on checking the car say an hour later, it would have gone down without me touching the car. Eventually it stopped going down altogether.
Never had a problem raising though.
I thought (actually, assumed is a better word) the dash switch actuated both pods off one circuit. But given I haven't touched it, it seems unlikely that that is the culprit as the lights are working perfectly now.
Not sure what the two wires and the 3 pin plug each do, but maybe the unplugging/replugging helped, although i did inspect and clean them before everything else. They were pretty full of crud, which is unsurprising given the manual lift access hole under each pod.
As you say, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts!
OK, the fault does look like a switching fault due to diodes/motor park contacts or relay/wiring failureI described the symptom poorly. The LH motor was still working at normal speed, when it worked. I could drive to work, switch the lights off, and the LH pod would stay up. on checking the car say an hour later, it would have gone down without me touching the car. Eventually it stopped going down altogether.
Never had a problem raising though.
I thought (actually, assumed is a better word) the dash switch actuated both pods off one circuit. But given I haven't touched it, it seems unlikely that that is the culprit as the lights are working perfectly now.
Not sure what the two wires and the 3 pin plug each do, but maybe the unplugging/replugging helped, although i did inspect and clean them before everything else. They were pretty full of crud, which is unsurprising given the manual lift access hole under each pod.
As you say, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts!
I hope you do visit back here as I include a link to a very good set of diagrams/comments that explain the whole operation of the motors
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p6.htm
Good to hear your issue has been resolved mate...
Did you lock wire the pod bolts?...They should have a pre-drilled hole in the bolt head...A general service of cleaning the plug connectors and greasing armature and bolts is good practice...Oh and operating them a couple of times a month doesn't hurt...
Enjoy....
Ziga
Did you lock wire the pod bolts?...They should have a pre-drilled hole in the bolt head...A general service of cleaning the plug connectors and greasing armature and bolts is good practice...Oh and operating them a couple of times a month doesn't hurt...
Enjoy....
Ziga
tvrmk363 said:
Have any of you ever looked into linear actuators rather then the current motors?
How do you raise up the pod a bit more but leave the down position in the same place?
Hi CharlieHow do you raise up the pod a bit more but leave the down position in the same place?
There is a stop on the bottom of the pod that catches the inner point just behind the front bumper and there is a stop on the floor pan under the pod with a bracket and stop...Bit of fuel hose normally...
To lift the pod up bend the bracket carefully downwards and then you may have to do the same to the lower one, bending it towards the bulkhead, they do tend to snap as they are old but its easily replaced with some angled bracket or angled strip and a new piece of 15mm hose...
Ziga
tvrmk363 said:
Have any of you ever looked into linear actuators rather then the current motors?
How do you raise up the pod a bit more but leave the down position in the same place?
Yes, I have been looking at linear actuators for operating windows, they are a very good piece of kit and will easily lift a headlamp pod, the problem is all about space, I feel combining a linear actuator with a cable could overcome any tight space issuesHow do you raise up the pod a bit more but leave the down position in the same place?
AO,
I have been looking at them for a while and came across a unit that is marine intended (waterproof) and is short enough to do the job.
I had a Lotus Elite a few years back and got into putting the headlight pods back in. They use a center pushing vacuum powered pod. It has a rod that goes from one side of the pod to the other up near the front of the pod. So instead of only pushing on one side like the wedges do it would push in the center and raise both sides without any twist forces. The up and down stops would be set on the actuator, so no stops needed like we currently have.
My hang up is wiring them in. I haven't looked at that part of it yet. Looks like about the same cost as buying a headlight motor, new that is, not from flea bay
Seems like a good way to eliminate several different issues. IMHO.
I have been looking at them for a while and came across a unit that is marine intended (waterproof) and is short enough to do the job.
I had a Lotus Elite a few years back and got into putting the headlight pods back in. They use a center pushing vacuum powered pod. It has a rod that goes from one side of the pod to the other up near the front of the pod. So instead of only pushing on one side like the wedges do it would push in the center and raise both sides without any twist forces. The up and down stops would be set on the actuator, so no stops needed like we currently have.
My hang up is wiring them in. I haven't looked at that part of it yet. Looks like about the same cost as buying a headlight motor, new that is, not from flea bay
Seems like a good way to eliminate several different issues. IMHO.
tvrmk363 said:
AO,
I have been looking at them for a while and came across a unit that is marine intended (waterproof) and is short enough to do the job.
I had a Lotus Elite a few years back and got into putting the headlight pods back in. They use a center pushing vacuum powered pod. It has a rod that goes from one side of the pod to the other up near the front of the pod. So instead of only pushing on one side like the wedges do it would push in the center and raise both sides without any twist forces. The up and down stops would be set on the actuator, so no stops needed like we currently have.
My hang up is wiring them in. I haven't looked at that part of it yet. Looks like about the same cost as buying a headlight motor, new that is, not from flea bay
Seems like a good way to eliminate several different issues. IMHO.
Yes I agree the benefits are many, the wiring should be easy, I did notice that some actuators have built in limit switchesI have been looking at them for a while and came across a unit that is marine intended (waterproof) and is short enough to do the job.
I had a Lotus Elite a few years back and got into putting the headlight pods back in. They use a center pushing vacuum powered pod. It has a rod that goes from one side of the pod to the other up near the front of the pod. So instead of only pushing on one side like the wedges do it would push in the center and raise both sides without any twist forces. The up and down stops would be set on the actuator, so no stops needed like we currently have.
My hang up is wiring them in. I haven't looked at that part of it yet. Looks like about the same cost as buying a headlight motor, new that is, not from flea bay
Seems like a good way to eliminate several different issues. IMHO.
Should you go ahead and use actuators and want suggestions for wiring them I will gladly post you my thoughts, the chances are you will sort it yourself
Penelope Stopit alias Alpha Omega
In true TVR style, my left headlamp lift is still working perfectly, but now the right one's got problems, serious ones. One closer inspection, i.e. taking the cover of the armature in the motor itself, one of the curved magnets that are glued to the inside of the housing has actually snapped in half, with part floating around, now removed.., so it looks like time for a new motor entirely.
What's a good price these days? Found a 'new; one for $240 (150GBP ish). Anybody bought one cheaper recently?
Many thanks.
What's a good price these days? Found a 'new; one for $240 (150GBP ish). Anybody bought one cheaper recently?
Many thanks.
Id always say to use robsport international...Rimmers actually sell stuff thats secondhand...
https://robsport.co.uk/index.php/online-shop/shop-...
https://robsport.co.uk/index.php/online-shop/shop-...
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