Dodgy ECU -
Dodgy ECU -
Author
Discussion

nigel_350i

Original Poster:

119 posts

258 months

Friday 8th April 2005
quotequote all
Hi,
After much electrical fault finding and substitution of parts on my 89 350I I've found that my ECU is (to use a technical term) dodgy giving me a intermittent "hunting" idle. It's a "Flapper" type Lucas 4CU.
All the connections to the unit are good but if I give the ECU some encouragment (via a thump)it starts working fine (dry solder joint?). My local landrover breaker has a used unit going fairly cheap at £99. I've seen comments before that the landrover ones are different. Anyone know whats different in the ECU's, or alternatively have a reliable source of the TVR spec ones? Or would be better contacting Mark Adams for repair? I want to avoid the re-soldering all the joints on the board myself route.

Thanks
Nigel

dickymint

28,370 posts

281 months

Friday 8th April 2005
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Send an email to Uglymug as he has recently had his checked out by some company. (his came back as no fault found).

wedg1e

27,008 posts

288 months

Friday 8th April 2005
quotequote all
The Landie one would work, there's a few different resistor values I think. I have heard that some have (effectively) a top speed limiter fitted, but not sure how that's supposed to work.
If you can use a soldering iron, it's really not that difficult a job.

HarryW

15,823 posts

292 months

Friday 8th April 2005
quotequote all
Don't know how, if at all, proficient you are with a soldering iron. If you can weild one then I would recommend re-touching all the joints as one is probably a bit dry. Not done it myself but have heard tell this has cured others in the past.

Harry

Apologies just re-read your post properly , you don't want to do the soldering bit yourself, in which case I would speak to Mark first myself.

>> Edited by HarryW on Friday 8th April 14:15

wedg1e

27,008 posts

288 months

Friday 8th April 2005
quotequote all
I suppose if you were to twist my arm, I could do it for you and check it on my car....

leorest

2,346 posts

262 months

Friday 8th April 2005
quotequote all
Word of warning!
Only attempt retouching solder joints when you have exhausted all other possibilities.
Be prepared to pay out for a new ECU if your attempts go wrong.
I'm not trying to put you off but just making you aware of the risk taken.
I retouched mine and all went well. I spent half an hour with the soldering iron and a further half an hour with a magnifying glass and continuity tester looking for solder bridges which can be as thin as a hair!
Make sure you use a clean, fine tipped iron with thin solder. Take your time and don’t overheat any of the joints.
If you're not confident then don't do it.

Best of luck

Leo

nigel_350i

Original Poster:

119 posts

258 months

Saturday 9th April 2005
quotequote all
Thanks for all the inputs folks. I'm normally OK with a soldering iron but I'm pretty nervous about screwing it up. I've got the first track day of the season at knockhill (in sunny scotland) a week today and would rather limp round than not make it at all I'll maybe buy the ECU from the Land rover guy as a fall back and then attempt the soldering iron touch up job. Thanks wedg1e for the offer.

nigel_350i

Original Poster:

119 posts

258 months

Sunday 10th April 2005
quotequote all
Well the land rover ECU was faulty. Tried it in the Wedge and it didn't work at all! Glad I tried it out before buying! Looks like I'll rely on the "hit the ECU for good running" technique for the track day and go for the re-solder fix after that!