Gas Rams / rear screen demist fhc

[french dave]

Hi gents,might have been done before but.......how do you get continuity/power down the gas Rams when the rear screen is shut to the demist/heating element on a fhc? I have power at the ram main body but nothing at the other end - does the ram rod ring terminal (with the out connection to the screen heating grid) have too touch the main ram body to make the circuit? When fully shut?

[TimLux]

The original struts were conductive from top to bottom, and thus had a metal clip on each end and then short wires to link the input and screen. Newer struts are unfortunately not conductive so you'll need to bridge past the strut with a wire if you want the rear demister to work. (I haven't tried new struts from TVR parts for conductivity as they're 3 x more expensive than the other option and they did not reply to my mails asking about conductivity).

[Grady]

Some of the rams sold over here are conductive and it was just a matter of popping the ends off and adding the e-fittings. (For a DHC to power the 3rd brake light, and I was buying generic parts from the a "big box" auto parts store.). Came in a blue sleeve - don't have the brand at the moment. Grady

[v8s4me]

Try this.

Get two of these pen clips...



Bend the pocket clip part back and file it to shape so you slip a terminal on...



Bend the other end so that it touches the rod under tension. Putting a 'U' shape groove in the other end will make it locate better on the rod.

By connecting the clip to the live/earth terminals on the body continuity can be maintained along the strut.

It works on the bench with an AVO so it would be good to know if it works in practice.

Edited by v8s4me on Wednesday 10th January 15:14

[french dave]

Hi,thanks Joe clever and simple - I'll try that .Dave

[v8s4me]

It might be worth trying this without connecting the spring clip to the live/earth terminals. The contact between the cylinder and the rod might be enough unless the paint acts as an insulator.