Diff Removal.

[John042]

I've just read a past post on the merits of removing the Diff to gain access to the brakes. It was made to sound easy? Access to the mounting bolts seems to be the only problem by drilling holes in the boot? Comments please on best way to go to gain access to the brakes, ie Diff out or remove calipers in situ, which require a complete overhaul. Thanks J C.

[wedgewood]

I did my brakes with the diff in place. It is a bit of a pain but its doable. It is difficult to see what you are doing but if you take your time and are methodical you will get there. Points to note: Locking tabs on the calliper retaining bolts need to be bent down before you can remove the bolts, when the handbrake callipers are removed check the pads are secure on their mounting. If there is any doubt about the functioning of the handbrake before removal have the handbrake callipers looked at too. This was the biggest problem area for me, I got the assembly back in and one of the handbrake adjusters wouldn't work, it took longer to fix that than the rest of the job!
I used Bigg Red for the refurb, they were professional and the quality of their work is excellent.
I cant comment on removing the diff but im sure that will throw up as many problems as it solves plus it looks very heavy!
Good luck.

[John042]

Thanks Ian. I did my 280i a few years ago and remember it being a pain plus dropping the hand brake caliper requiring a trip to the dentist. The Diff indeed does look heavy and probably present more problems. I've been in contact with BigRed and it seems the best option for refurbishment. Thanks.

[adam quantrill]

I have done stuff both ways now.

The diff on its cradle is very heavy and is a PITA to remove and jiggle about to replace. Also you need to have a good 18 inches clearance above ground level to allow it to come our rearwards.

For the handbrake deffo take them off in situ is quicker.

For the main calipers, if you can get to the mounting bolts OK, do them in situ too. Make sure you can release the bleed nipple before replacing.

I used the clamping nut for the flexible brake hose to clamp on a small piece of polythene to the end of said hose which saved all the brake fluid draining out.

[John042]

Thanks Adam. I think Diff in situ wins. No problem with the bleed screw as that's been sheared off. I think there was a post debating the thread size for re-tapping (3/8" BSF) I think?

[adam quantrill]

I drilled a hole in mine leaving about 1mm all around the edge, and to within 2mm of the bottom. Then made a cold chisel out of an old drill bit shank and chiselled the casing that was left behind, this revelaed the thread undamaged.

At the bottom it just needed chiselling backwards and forwards until the end freed up, then pull out with a magnet.

To gauge the depths unscrew a brake pipe the holes are all the same.

I also put the new bleed nipple in the other hole sealing the caliper then clamped the piston down causing a bit of upwards pressure on the remnants of the drilled bleed nipple. When it frees up you get fluid coming up the hole.

[John042]

A little progress yesterday evening. Soaking again the rear calipers in penetrating oil and broken the original mounting bolts locking wire. Also managed to move one of the lower caliper mounting bolts. The others I'll tackle when the handbrake caliper is removed this weekend. Not a job I relish with crap falling in your eyes and the only spanner for access being an open ended. Happy TVR Days.

[adam quantrill]

I use some Uvex goggles (a bit like ski goggles) which give clear vision and allow for glasses if you need them.

On reassembly if you can get away with threading the lock wire into the lower bolt first, without mashing it with the spanner, that will save quite a few minutes and some choice expletives.

[John042]

Thanks Adam. When calipers are off they're going to Big Red for refurb', good point on threading some lock wire in first though. Cheers J C.