Lost me brakes.
Discussion
Well I thought I'd take the wedge out for a hoon and great yep... she's very fast!
However the scary bit....I lost all brakes! Brake pedal with no pressure at all. The plastic lid on top of the brake chamber reservoir had popped off and the master cylinder seal which the reservoir chamber sits is now leaking so I guess that would loose all brake pedal pressure?
Is there a certain bush kit to replace?
However the scary bit....I lost all brakes! Brake pedal with no pressure at all. The plastic lid on top of the brake chamber reservoir had popped off and the master cylinder seal which the reservoir chamber sits is now leaking so I guess that would loose all brake pedal pressure?
Is there a certain bush kit to replace?
mrzigazaga said:
Brilliant, cheers Ziga. mrzigazaga said:
You seem to have some black fleck in the fluid which can suggest that the actual cylinder is failing....again it is Ford Cortina mk4/5....You should at least change the fluid out but be cautious as it might not be the seals causing lack of brakes..
Ok thanks, one of the seals is definitely weeping so I'll get both replaced and look out for another brake cylinder as well. Typically I have spare ones for my S Series but not wedge.NeilS3 said:
Thanks, to be honest for £17 I can get all the bushes replaced in the brake cylinder. Looks like one has failed inside as fluid levels are still topped up.
Please don't replace the seals just put a new master cylinder on.This part has to be the most significant safety feature on a car so it makes no sense to take half measures in its repair.
Steve
Also, how old is your fluid? Old fluid has a much lower boiling point as it gradually absorbs water (known as the wet boiling point) Use fluid with the highest dry boiling point you can find, such as this: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/racing-brake...
njhucker said:
Unlikely that you would loose your brakes because of a leaking reservoir seal. Did your pedal go to the floor after a fast drive, and then come back after cooling down? If so that it a rear pad not free, and boiling the fluid.
Thanks, interesting as what you have described. Brake pedal turned to slush after accelerating fast and I smelt a whiff of fumes so first thought maybe a hose pipe came loose/split but funny enough next day to turn car around in driveway the brakes worked fine however as engine warmed up just on tickover the pedal started to become slushy again. I have taken the master cylinder off to have a look and I can see a slight hole in one of the rubber bushes so I would have thought down to that? Fluids are all old so thanks for the link I will renew everything before start putting miles on the car as I'm enjoying having a wedge.
Edited by NeilS3 on Monday 4th February 22:13
Edited by NeilS3 on Monday 4th February 22:17
I have boiled the brake fluid on my Chimaera.
New pads, racing variety, one year old high temp fluid.
Brakes vanished when braking hard before a 90 left at 120 mph.
Changed my underwear while Phazed popped my old pads back in, topped up the fluid, and the track day continued with no further issues.
So the point about elderly brake fluid is well made.
New pads, racing variety, one year old high temp fluid.
Brakes vanished when braking hard before a 90 left at 120 mph.
Changed my underwear while Phazed popped my old pads back in, topped up the fluid, and the track day continued with no further issues.
So the point about elderly brake fluid is well made.
If this is a Wedge master cylinder then yes they have twin or dual circuit brakes.
But..... if one circuit fails you will hopefully still get some brakes at the other end but it won't be a "normal pedal", they'll be a lot of travel.
Have you ever struggled to get a bit of air out when bleeding rear brakes? Front circuit may be fine but pedal will be rubbish.
I’m with you....but the original complaint (and I don’t have my car in front of me for reference) it was mentioned that the res. Cap popped off, and lost all brakes, at the same time???
In reality the cap was probably loose for weeks and just seemed to occur at same time.
Just wondering
In reality the cap was probably loose for weeks and just seemed to occur at same time.
Just wondering
Wedgehead said:
I’m with you....but the original complaint (and I don’t have my car in front of me for reference) it was mentioned that the res. Cap popped off, and lost all brakes, at the same time???
In reality the cap was probably loose for weeks and just seemed to occur at same time.
Just wondering
Hi there, yes that was the very strange bit with it popping off as I'm always checking things like that before I go out in it and was definitely on tight before hand.In reality the cap was probably loose for weeks and just seemed to occur at same time.
Just wondering
I have jacked the rear up and I can turn one of the rear wheels by hand however one side is slightly binding on and looking at the rear brake pads they look very thin (handbrake pads fine) so would have thought brake piston pulling out too far with the pad and sticking? Anyway new rear pads arrived yesterday although looks a horrible job to reach so will be getting a garage to fit them and bleed system properly. The master Cylinder I changed so typically looking like that wasn't required but hey ho it's now a new part.
Any ideas why the cap would be forced off?
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