350i recommissioning
Discussion
Hi all,
Its been far too long since I've ventured into this forum, 10 years I reckon. Where did wedgepages go?.
I've decided to get my 350i back on the road assuming that I'm not too old to still enjoy it. She was put away when the engine started playing up and every garage I went to charged a fortune and got me no where at a time when my career was just starting (ie skint)
Where is there in the south that could offer diagnosis/rebuild of the v8 to get her back on the road? It seems that Austec have gone?
Honestly I feel like I blinked and everything changed....pesky kids!
All the best and thanks in advance,
Mike
Its been far too long since I've ventured into this forum, 10 years I reckon. Where did wedgepages go?.
I've decided to get my 350i back on the road assuming that I'm not too old to still enjoy it. She was put away when the engine started playing up and every garage I went to charged a fortune and got me no where at a time when my career was just starting (ie skint)
Where is there in the south that could offer diagnosis/rebuild of the v8 to get her back on the road? It seems that Austec have gone?
Honestly I feel like I blinked and everything changed....pesky kids!
All the best and thanks in advance,
Mike
Are you on / do FaceBook? Lot busier 'traffic' over there. 'TVR Wedge Owners UK' group and 'Wedge Owners and Enthusiasts UK' group are well visited.
Austec went to the wall 'very badly' so probably the best for you that they did.
I assume you are local to Austec, so Surrey.
If the car has been parked up for 10-years then you are going to be extremely lucky that it won't require a hefty bit of work. You could try Kent TVR for a condition report. They offer a mobile service. http://www.kenttvr.co.uk/ - https://www.facebook.com/kentTVR/
I can wholeheartedly recommend Southways - https://www.facebook.com/SouthwaysAutomotive - http://www.southwaysautomotive.co.uk/ for restoration works. As well as Mat Smith Sports Cars - https://www.facebook.com/matsmithsportscars/ - http://www.matsmithsportscars.com/
Wendy (my 350i) is off to Mat Smith for new suspension and geo set up after the Eurotour and I happily travel to him from Lewisham.
If you want to do some stuff yourself these two will help;
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/ - 390SE but lots of good info and clear guides.
http://vintagemodelairplane.com/ - SD1 based Rover V8 diagnostics.
I assume you have a Steve Heath 'Bible'.
If you want a fix of some nice wedges then you can join the weekly Sausage Meet in Greenwich Park. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... although most notices go in the 'TVR Wedge "Sausage Meet" ' group on Facebook now. The BBWF is this coming weekend so the next meet is likely to be a fortnight.
Austec went to the wall 'very badly' so probably the best for you that they did.
I assume you are local to Austec, so Surrey.
If the car has been parked up for 10-years then you are going to be extremely lucky that it won't require a hefty bit of work. You could try Kent TVR for a condition report. They offer a mobile service. http://www.kenttvr.co.uk/ - https://www.facebook.com/kentTVR/
I can wholeheartedly recommend Southways - https://www.facebook.com/SouthwaysAutomotive - http://www.southwaysautomotive.co.uk/ for restoration works. As well as Mat Smith Sports Cars - https://www.facebook.com/matsmithsportscars/ - http://www.matsmithsportscars.com/
Wendy (my 350i) is off to Mat Smith for new suspension and geo set up after the Eurotour and I happily travel to him from Lewisham.
If you want to do some stuff yourself these two will help;
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/ - 390SE but lots of good info and clear guides.
http://vintagemodelairplane.com/ - SD1 based Rover V8 diagnostics.
I assume you have a Steve Heath 'Bible'.
If you want a fix of some nice wedges then you can join the weekly Sausage Meet in Greenwich Park. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... although most notices go in the 'TVR Wedge "Sausage Meet" ' group on Facebook now. The BBWF is this coming weekend so the next meet is likely to be a fortnight.
Edited by mk1fan on Sunday 23 June 18:48
Hi Mike,
wow wedgetable is a handle from the past... welcome back.
Luckily for you in the intervening 10 yeas we have probably discovered all of the running issue foibles of the V8. But we still forget and rediscover them!
In case you are tempted to see if she'll run, before you attempt a start up after such a long lay-up:
- check all the fluids are present and correct.
- remove all the spark plugs and put a couple of cc of oil into each cylinder, don't replace the plugs yet.
- pour about a pint of oil into the oil filler, quickly, this will allow some oil to drip onto the dry camshaft.
now turn over the engine is should turn over nice and quick, you can carry on until the oil light goes out and there's a little oil pressure. Check for any fuel leaks especially around the injectors.
- replace the plugs and leads
Now you can try firing it up. If it fires, get the revs up to 1500-2000 and hold in that range, for a couple of minutes. This will get the oil up to the camshaft. Keep your eye on the temp gauge and oil pressure.
Allow the revs to drop to idle before shutting off, see if it will idle.
What were the symptoms last time around maybe we have some advice that can help?
wow wedgetable is a handle from the past... welcome back.
Luckily for you in the intervening 10 yeas we have probably discovered all of the running issue foibles of the V8. But we still forget and rediscover them!
In case you are tempted to see if she'll run, before you attempt a start up after such a long lay-up:
- check all the fluids are present and correct.
- remove all the spark plugs and put a couple of cc of oil into each cylinder, don't replace the plugs yet.
- pour about a pint of oil into the oil filler, quickly, this will allow some oil to drip onto the dry camshaft.
now turn over the engine is should turn over nice and quick, you can carry on until the oil light goes out and there's a little oil pressure. Check for any fuel leaks especially around the injectors.
- replace the plugs and leads
Now you can try firing it up. If it fires, get the revs up to 1500-2000 and hold in that range, for a couple of minutes. This will get the oil up to the camshaft. Keep your eye on the temp gauge and oil pressure.
Allow the revs to drop to idle before shutting off, see if it will idle.
What were the symptoms last time around maybe we have some advice that can help?
Hi, recently went through the task you're facing. 18 years dormant. Not withstanding the advice already given, on starting mine had misfires on at least two cylinders. Good advice from a refurb' specialist was before tearing into the fuel/ignition system get some good quantity injector cleaner, fill the fuel filter, start and immediately stop the engine. Then leave overnight. The theory being that if the injectors are gummed up with old fuel it might clear them. On mine it worked, needless to say the rest of the fuel system was flushed out with fresh fuel especially the swirl pot. Also I fitted a see through plastic fuel filter between the swirl pot and pump to monitor if any more crap was in the tanks. My past experience with rear brakes seized was to replace both the rear calipers. To follow on one drive shaft UJ's have just been replaced and I expect the other will require the same. Grease was well dryed up. Good luck J C.
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies and my apologies for not acknowledging them sooner, the forums were blocking new users due to abuse at some point.
Mk1fan:
I’m not a big Facebook user but will join the groups, thanks for the headsup and Ill get in touch with Kent Tvr and Southways too as both are about the same distance away. We are in Lewes, Sussex and ill try to get to a meet at some point even if its hiding at the back in the Mondeo!!
Adam:
Thank you. It’s great to look through this forum and see all of the same names that have helped me over the years, can’t wait to get back properly!
She did start…….instantly!!!! But sprayed petrol everywhere presumably in protest at the rude awakening. But she won’t idle. The original symptoms started when I had fixed nearly every other typical wedge issue (non engine related). I went for a blast and there was a loud noise from the engine and she never ran right again. I tried to convince myself that it was petrol in the exhaust but the rough running suggests something more. Various “experts” had ago but never got far. One guy put a Range Rover carb on to get it through an MOT but it was all a bit gash during a time of my career taking off..house purchases. (Followed by property crashes and lender bankruptcies 😖 ) I gave up, put here in the garage and stuck with the Mondeo. I’m tempted to take the engine out and attempt the rebuild myself. It’ll be a learning curve but I’ve got the books and obviously now found the source of knowledge! That said if you have any troubleshooting tips to try, id be grateful to give them a go first.
John042:
If I’ve not bored you so far…thanks for still reading and the advice. Oddly the last job I was supposed to do before the engine started playing up was the fuel system. I think ill start with your tips before ripping the engine out. Logically the bang could have been associated with a fuel starvation followed by an overcompensation? Either way the tanks probably full of rust!
Thanks again all and hope to see you at a meet soon.
Thanks for the replies and my apologies for not acknowledging them sooner, the forums were blocking new users due to abuse at some point.
Mk1fan:
I’m not a big Facebook user but will join the groups, thanks for the headsup and Ill get in touch with Kent Tvr and Southways too as both are about the same distance away. We are in Lewes, Sussex and ill try to get to a meet at some point even if its hiding at the back in the Mondeo!!
Adam:
Thank you. It’s great to look through this forum and see all of the same names that have helped me over the years, can’t wait to get back properly!
She did start…….instantly!!!! But sprayed petrol everywhere presumably in protest at the rude awakening. But she won’t idle. The original symptoms started when I had fixed nearly every other typical wedge issue (non engine related). I went for a blast and there was a loud noise from the engine and she never ran right again. I tried to convince myself that it was petrol in the exhaust but the rough running suggests something more. Various “experts” had ago but never got far. One guy put a Range Rover carb on to get it through an MOT but it was all a bit gash during a time of my career taking off..house purchases. (Followed by property crashes and lender bankruptcies 😖 ) I gave up, put here in the garage and stuck with the Mondeo. I’m tempted to take the engine out and attempt the rebuild myself. It’ll be a learning curve but I’ve got the books and obviously now found the source of knowledge! That said if you have any troubleshooting tips to try, id be grateful to give them a go first.
John042:
If I’ve not bored you so far…thanks for still reading and the advice. Oddly the last job I was supposed to do before the engine started playing up was the fuel system. I think ill start with your tips before ripping the engine out. Logically the bang could have been associated with a fuel starvation followed by an overcompensation? Either way the tanks probably full of rust!
Thanks again all and hope to see you at a meet soon.
Hi, yes tanks and associated pipe work is a magnet for old fuel. Oddly my 2.8 was much worse after a similar layup period. It was like black tar in the pipes from the tanks. The fuel pump in both cases was toast. The 350i wasn't too bad with only a small amount of crud in the swirl pot. Lucky I guess or better quality residual fuel? Anyway, good luck. J C.
Hi,
Just a note I have rebuilt these engines myself, these rover V8s are quite a simple engine with just one central camshaft, hydraulic followers etc: only notes I would say don’t change the camshaft bearings unless you need to they are stepped sizes and generally need to be honed once fitted otherwise the camshaft is extremely tight, if the engine has been looked after in its life these are pretty robust. I also rebuilt my dads v8 in his rover coupe all ran beautifully after build,, never had any probs with carburettor engines, my issues have all been with the fuel injection system but gradually getting my head around this (I hope)... my personal preference was to fit composite head and valley gaskets just to take up any deviations those tin ones are mighty thin but it’s down to everyone’s personal choice, also worth a look is island 4 x 4 website there is one in Maidstone but it’s all mail order they specialise in Land Rover /Range Rover V8s found their engine spares prices to be very reasonable and great service as well.
I personally think with the manual you won’t go wrong and any machining required you can get done at a local engine shop. Take your time and save yourself some cash as well.....
Just a note I have rebuilt these engines myself, these rover V8s are quite a simple engine with just one central camshaft, hydraulic followers etc: only notes I would say don’t change the camshaft bearings unless you need to they are stepped sizes and generally need to be honed once fitted otherwise the camshaft is extremely tight, if the engine has been looked after in its life these are pretty robust. I also rebuilt my dads v8 in his rover coupe all ran beautifully after build,, never had any probs with carburettor engines, my issues have all been with the fuel injection system but gradually getting my head around this (I hope)... my personal preference was to fit composite head and valley gaskets just to take up any deviations those tin ones are mighty thin but it’s down to everyone’s personal choice, also worth a look is island 4 x 4 website there is one in Maidstone but it’s all mail order they specialise in Land Rover /Range Rover V8s found their engine spares prices to be very reasonable and great service as well.
I personally think with the manual you won’t go wrong and any machining required you can get done at a local engine shop. Take your time and save yourself some cash as well.....
Hi Jensen,
This is definitely an avenue I’m up for. It’s well beyond my comfort zone but I could do with the challenge. I’ve got the Rover V8 manuals but I’m wondering if converting to carbs could be a good option for a simpleton like me to setup. I’ll look through the forums and see what I find.
Thank you for enlightening me to its relative ease... I’m sure I’ll be able to hash it up!
This is definitely an avenue I’m up for. It’s well beyond my comfort zone but I could do with the challenge. I’ve got the Rover V8 manuals but I’m wondering if converting to carbs could be a good option for a simpleton like me to setup. I’ll look through the forums and see what I find.
Thank you for enlightening me to its relative ease... I’m sure I’ll be able to hash it up!
I have the early flapper fuel injection system on a 1988 model engine, I think the 89 model on used the later injection system simpler and much better I believe I’m only sorry I didn’t fit the later system before I threw loads of money at my one ,,,
I fitted a rover V8 into a mark 2 cortina I had and also at that time had a pilgrim cobra with a 4ltr rover V8 in I converted both of these to a Holley carb/ manifold both ran extremely well.. ask the guy in the fast lane of the motorway when he looked in his rearview mirror and saw a 1966 mark 2 cortina well within his sights lol!!!!!
But it’s all personal choice. Good luck
I fitted a rover V8 into a mark 2 cortina I had and also at that time had a pilgrim cobra with a 4ltr rover V8 in I converted both of these to a Holley carb/ manifold both ran extremely well.. ask the guy in the fast lane of the motorway when he looked in his rearview mirror and saw a 1966 mark 2 cortina well within his sights lol!!!!!
But it’s all personal choice. Good luck
Firstly I would of even dreamt of starting it after so long without even checking leads ...plugs..condition of fuel hoses, condition of oil ..change fuel filters and then fresh fuel...now this noise could be 101 different things, be careful starting it up and running it as that might cause more severe damage...
Sorry for the delay....I’ve been held up trying to bleed the brakes on a 1948 Triumph Roadster, notorious nightmare job! 3 whole days, 6 litres of fluid and 2 fed up friends!
The Wedge has got the original injection system at the moment but good to know carbs are a genuine option not just a bodge to get through the mot.
I’ll get this Roadster out of the way and then get some videos. And yes Ziga everything has been inspected and changed as necessary, although having done more research I think there’s better fuel line options.
Thanks again for getting back to me.
The Wedge has got the original injection system at the moment but good to know carbs are a genuine option not just a bodge to get through the mot.
I’ll get this Roadster out of the way and then get some videos. And yes Ziga everything has been inspected and changed as necessary, although having done more research I think there’s better fuel line options.
Thanks again for getting back to me.
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