Does hammerite cover a multitude of sins?
Discussion
Looking at TVR Wedges. Well priced one on market. Chap says chassis is good. It failed its MOT for corrosion in 2015 but no advisories for corrosion since. Chap says any rust was "blasted with heat hammerited then wax oiled". Example pic is below.
My worry is the hammerite could be covering up a poor condition chassis. Or is it a sign of a dutiful owner that did the necessary to protect the chassis from rust?
My worry is the hammerite could be covering up a poor condition chassis. Or is it a sign of a dutiful owner that did the necessary to protect the chassis from rust?
Given the 'textured' finish in locations as well as orange rust showing in others, to me it suggests the pre application prep was not great.
That said, if its sold and merely surface corrosion then it wouldn't be a fortune to make good if you can chisel some discount.
If the rest of the car ticks the boxes then its worth it imho
That said, if its sold and merely surface corrosion then it wouldn't be a fortune to make good if you can chisel some discount.
If the rest of the car ticks the boxes then its worth it imho
"Blasted with heat" doesn't sound inspiring.
I think the general consensus on these old things is that once tbe chassis starts failing MOTs, it needs to come out, get sandblasted or acid dipped, holes need to be welded and then it needs to be fully painted again.
This bloke has probably sanded down the worst of it and then applied a liberal helping of £5.99 rustoleum.
You probably like the car too much to look at it objectively and might be looking for the answer you want to hear. I know I would be!
I think the general consensus on these old things is that once tbe chassis starts failing MOTs, it needs to come out, get sandblasted or acid dipped, holes need to be welded and then it needs to be fully painted again.
This bloke has probably sanded down the worst of it and then applied a liberal helping of £5.99 rustoleum.
You probably like the car too much to look at it objectively and might be looking for the answer you want to hear. I know I would be!
t available from any motorist discount bodging shops.. Lowtimer said:
Or buy it if
- you like the rest of the car
- you are looking for a keeper
- you can get the buyer down to a price where you can afford a chassis replacement.
If you want to keep an old car for a long time there's a lot to be said for knowing it's all new underneath.
That's a good point, this one is up at 5k, which is cheap, a very nice exampled on the classifieds is 6.9k. How much is a chassis refurb, 3k maybe?- you like the rest of the car
- you are looking for a keeper
- you can get the buyer down to a price where you can afford a chassis replacement.
If you want to keep an old car for a long time there's a lot to be said for knowing it's all new underneath.
Chassis are painted because the powder coating has deteriorated and rust has set in. Paint only gets to the areas you can see. I am not against painting if its light surface rust. Its when the rust is left and really starts pitting and de- laminating the steel, this is usually when the paint and wax oil makes an appearance.
Personally any steel chassis that is getting on for 30 years old is going to need a refurb by now, unless its totally pampered and all the original powder coating is in place. A normal steel bodied car would be at the scrap yard by now.
Personally any steel chassis that is getting on for 30 years old is going to need a refurb by now, unless its totally pampered and all the original powder coating is in place. A normal steel bodied car would be at the scrap yard by now.
pac1uk said:
Chassis are painted because the powder coating has deteriorated and rust has set in. Paint only gets to the areas you can see. I am not against painting if its light surface rust. Its when the rust is left and really starts pitting and de- laminating the steel, this is usually when the paint and wax oil makes an appearance.
Personally any steel chassis that is getting on for 30 years old is going to need a refurb by now, unless its totally pampered and all the original powder coating is in place. A normal steel bodied car would be at the scrap yard by now.
So is the advice only to buy one with evidence of a refurb OR cheap enough to budget the refurb myself?Personally any steel chassis that is getting on for 30 years old is going to need a refurb by now, unless its totally pampered and all the original powder coating is in place. A normal steel bodied car would be at the scrap yard by now.
The outer powder coat is no guarantee.
Surface rust is not usually a problem in itself.
The problems come from corrosion inside the tubes, these were not protected internally.
If water gets in anywhere (or was present from day 1) the tubes can corrode from the inside out, and still look great.
Go around the chassis tapping each tube with a metal object, it should "ding" like a bell, if it's dull then there's corrosion lurking in there.
Surface rust is not usually a problem in itself.
The problems come from corrosion inside the tubes, these were not protected internally.
If water gets in anywhere (or was present from day 1) the tubes can corrode from the inside out, and still look great.
Go around the chassis tapping each tube with a metal object, it should "ding" like a bell, if it's dull then there's corrosion lurking in there.
adam quantrill said:
The outer powder coat is no guarantee.
Surface rust is not usually a problem in itself.
The problems come from corrosion inside the tubes, these were not protected internally.
If water gets in anywhere (or was present from day 1) the tubes can corrode from the inside out, and still look great.
Go around the chassis tapping each tube with a metal object, it should "ding" like a bell, if it's dull then there's corrosion lurking in there.
This is one of many, many reasons why TVR ownership would keep me awake at night. Pretty to look at sure but my god never in a million years could I buy one and enjoy the ownership experience!!Surface rust is not usually a problem in itself.
The problems come from corrosion inside the tubes, these were not protected internally.
If water gets in anywhere (or was present from day 1) the tubes can corrode from the inside out, and still look great.
Go around the chassis tapping each tube with a metal object, it should "ding" like a bell, if it's dull then there's corrosion lurking in there.
I'm having a Chimaera inspected instead, decided I didn't like the look of this one. Chap who is inspecting the tvr - used to race them - said that wedges are very agricultural when i mentioned i was looking at them also and said that often people want one until they drive one and change their mind! Though he said the wedges dont rust as badly as the chimaeras.
Having read many threads on Chimaera chassis corrosion (I've owned 3) I got the impression that generally, they don't rust from the inside out, there being no holes anywhere. Once the powder coating is compromised however, most likely on the outriggers, and a tube is perforated, usually in corners where mud and moisture gets trapped, it can accelerate.
Actually, looking at that photo, it looks pretty solid! Usually that crossmember gets protected a tad by "juices" dripping from the engine over the years.
@Trumpton, it's only a few steel tubes at the end of the day, usually quite simple to chop one out and weld in a replacement, and being underneath out of sight a repair doesn't affect the paintwork, unlike with a monocoque bodied car.
@Trumpton, it's only a few steel tubes at the end of the day, usually quite simple to chop one out and weld in a replacement, and being underneath out of sight a repair doesn't affect the paintwork, unlike with a monocoque bodied car.
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