Wedges and track days
Discussion
Anyone done a track day in a wedge ??
My sons mentioned a track day at the end of the month - he’s taking his civic type R - and said I should take the wedge I’d not really thought about it before but it kind of appeals to give the old girl some beans without the worry of speeding tickets fines points etc
Just thought I’d ask about others experiences doing it
Thanks Ron
ETA any issues around noise limits ???
It’s 100db static 92 drive by
My sons mentioned a track day at the end of the month - he’s taking his civic type R - and said I should take the wedge I’d not really thought about it before but it kind of appeals to give the old girl some beans without the worry of speeding tickets fines points etc
Just thought I’d ask about others experiences doing it
Thanks Ron
ETA any issues around noise limits ???
It’s 100db static 92 drive by
Edited by Rockettvr on Saturday 3rd August 19:27
Edited by Rockettvr on Saturday 3rd August 19:29
Yep I did Hethel in my old 350i was great fun, just make sure brakes are up to it, all fluids are comparatively new and no bad leaks anywhere. Here is a photo of me on track and if you look closely you can see a 450i in the background that was Henry in it when he owned. I had the pleasure of owning it but sadly due to business failure I had to sell it 
i did loads of track days in my 400SE before i went sprinting. They are generally good on a track. Things to do.
over fill the engine oil by about 1cm - helps prevent surge because you dont have a baffled sump
if you can change front brake fluid for something decent like SRF 600 before you go
make sure the brake pads have plenty of meat
Then it really depends how hard you are going to push it. if you are quick then only do a few fast laps - 3 or 4 - not too many or you will overheat the brakes remember the rear brakes are the in baord jag type and get very little air. then let it cool down properly and when you stop never use the handbrake. I set fire to both front and rear brakes on mine at various stages and once I had ducted the brakes to cool them i started to melt the front wheel bearing grease and had to change that for high temp grease!
over fill the engine oil by about 1cm - helps prevent surge because you dont have a baffled sump
if you can change front brake fluid for something decent like SRF 600 before you go
make sure the brake pads have plenty of meat
Then it really depends how hard you are going to push it. if you are quick then only do a few fast laps - 3 or 4 - not too many or you will overheat the brakes remember the rear brakes are the in baord jag type and get very little air. then let it cool down properly and when you stop never use the handbrake. I set fire to both front and rear brakes on mine at various stages and once I had ducted the brakes to cool them i started to melt the front wheel bearing grease and had to change that for high temp grease!
Looking at Lydden hill
Although looking at Keith’s post I very much doubt I’ll pass the noise restrictions- mine is a long way from being the noisiest Wedge around but is certainly no shrinking violet
Billy no mates - what were the restrictions on your track day and what did you measure???
Although looking at Keith’s post I very much doubt I’ll pass the noise restrictions- mine is a long way from being the noisiest Wedge around but is certainly no shrinking violet
Billy no mates - what were the restrictions on your track day and what did you measure???
the noise tests at lydden are not very stringent, because there is no housing anywhere near it.
for a lap of lydden see my video form 2 weeks ago. https://youtu.be/y0oeFIH5dzs
for a lap of lydden see my video form 2 weeks ago. https://youtu.be/y0oeFIH5dzs
Done quite a few TDs in Wendy.
Not sure I'd over fill the oil by 1cm - 10mm. I usually aim for 1-2mm over the max.
Sound levels haven't been an issue. Silencer and cherry bomb on the exhaust.
Rear brakes are definitely an issue. I have uprated pads which help but the rears do heat up quick.
Handling wise they are fine. Good on track.
I agree. A change of the fluids ahead of the day is worth while.
Not sure I'd over fill the oil by 1cm - 10mm. I usually aim for 1-2mm over the max.
Sound levels haven't been an issue. Silencer and cherry bomb on the exhaust.
Rear brakes are definitely an issue. I have uprated pads which help but the rears do heat up quick.
Handling wise they are fine. Good on track.
I agree. A change of the fluids ahead of the day is worth while.
Did quite a few in my 400SE, a few in the wet which was great fun 
As others have said, brakes are the biggest thing to watch. I went 1144's all round which helped braking performance and resistance to overheating but I always kept the number of laps per session to what I thought was good to keep the rear temps under control and always did a cool down lap to get some air over them before going into the pits.
I was on the limit noise wise static but the V8's never seem overly loud once out there.
Do it and enjoy
As others have said, brakes are the biggest thing to watch. I went 1144's all round which helped braking performance and resistance to overheating but I always kept the number of laps per session to what I thought was good to keep the rear temps under control and always did a cool down lap to get some air over them before going into the pits.
I was on the limit noise wise static but the V8's never seem overly loud once out there.
Do it and enjoy
Hi guys and gals . my name is cliff and i am an alcholic... joke. lol. no desrespect to the worthy AA, unless youre RAC lol
start again ..
Hi myname is cliff and i need help..
my relays , fuses are all over the place ,
one pop up stays up..
i proudly own tasmin 280i convertible. completely orig incl metal relays
i also need to change the filter thats next to the fuel pump ---located top of rear pasenger axel...
on an 83
start again ..
Hi myname is cliff and i need help..
my relays , fuses are all over the place ,
one pop up stays up..
i proudly own tasmin 280i convertible. completely orig incl metal relays
i also need to change the filter thats next to the fuel pump ---located top of rear pasenger axel...
on an 83
Hi Tasmaniac,
you might want to start your own thread to get the help you need?
Getting back to the track days I heard a top tip was to slacken off the handbrake caliper screws a couple of turns before the session, then afterwards tighten up again (once the brakes have cooled too).
This avoids the heating-up-then-binding scenario you can sometimes get.
Take a couple of wood blocks to chock the wheels too, you don't want to leave it in gear either, 'cos on a hot box it can sometimes get stuck in gear.
you might want to start your own thread to get the help you need?
Getting back to the track days I heard a top tip was to slacken off the handbrake caliper screws a couple of turns before the session, then afterwards tighten up again (once the brakes have cooled too).
This avoids the heating-up-then-binding scenario you can sometimes get.
Take a couple of wood blocks to chock the wheels too, you don't want to leave it in gear either, 'cos on a hot box it can sometimes get stuck in gear.
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff