Discussion
So....IF I decide to do something about my chassis (which, despite being 30 years old now) still looks in good condition but as Warren at TopCats said a few years ago "is a bit tired and flexign" (despite it on the whole being fine on track for years), what's the current situation regarding
a) price of a chassis refurb or new chassis?
b) who's best placed to carry it out
c) who will control the purse strings if I go ahead?.....after all, the engine change back in 2003 ended up being about double what I originally planned on spending!
a) price of a chassis refurb or new chassis?
b) who's best placed to carry it out
c) who will control the purse strings if I go ahead?.....after all, the engine change back in 2003 ended up being about double what I originally planned on spending!
Good to see an old name on here.
A long time ago , I / we had RT restored (H11JMJ) and it cost an arm and leg , plus many other bodily parts.
If you are going to go body off , bite the bullet and get a new chassis. With the sad demise of RT , not sure where you can get one, but if you have the body off , it would be the cheaper option .
Good luck
As a PS , just got my 93 Chimaera MOT'd , no advisories , chassis sound , now just need the weather !!
A long time ago , I / we had RT restored (H11JMJ) and it cost an arm and leg , plus many other bodily parts.
If you are going to go body off , bite the bullet and get a new chassis. With the sad demise of RT , not sure where you can get one, but if you have the body off , it would be the cheaper option .
Good luck
As a PS , just got my 93 Chimaera MOT'd , no advisories , chassis sound , now just need the weather !!
Edited by NHyde on Tuesday 16th June 21:58
bit of a grey area with replacement chassis and DVLA, nothing consistent - obviously with a government department
I would not mention it to any-one (call it fully refurbished) transfer the number and scrap the old one (can't have 2 with the same ID)
There are cases of ending up with Q reg as deemed major alteration.
I would not mention it to any-one (call it fully refurbished) transfer the number and scrap the old one (can't have 2 with the same ID)
There are cases of ending up with Q reg as deemed major alteration.
Instead of a full chassis what about strengthening the one you have?
First go around all the tubes with a small hammer and tap them, if rusty inside they will be dull, else they will 'ding'. If you can get one use an ultrasonic probe to check. Mark any dodgy tubes for chopping out and replacing. If most are easily accessible then maybe the job can be done in situ?
The area round the back of the diff is like a big trapezoid and could to with some diagonal bracing.
Adding a roll bar at the back - or some of it, stiffens up the rear.
Make sure all the body mounts are sound as the tub stiffens the chassis a little.
The central tunnel could be stiffened up with additional diagonals.
Downside is that there's a weight penalty adding the extra metal, but on the other hand you save when you chop out corrosion!
First go around all the tubes with a small hammer and tap them, if rusty inside they will be dull, else they will 'ding'. If you can get one use an ultrasonic probe to check. Mark any dodgy tubes for chopping out and replacing. If most are easily accessible then maybe the job can be done in situ?
The area round the back of the diff is like a big trapezoid and could to with some diagonal bracing.
Adding a roll bar at the back - or some of it, stiffens up the rear.
Make sure all the body mounts are sound as the tub stiffens the chassis a little.
The central tunnel could be stiffened up with additional diagonals.
Downside is that there's a weight penalty adding the extra metal, but on the other hand you save when you chop out corrosion!
rev-erend said:
I think southways automotive have done a 400se. RT did offer outrigger sections for a Wedge. Probably worth calling RT as I hear someone took over the business after Richard passed away.
Southways have done quite a few Wedge restorations that look good and with good testimonials. RT Racing have been absorbed into Central TVR to become Central RT Racing.adam quantrill said:
Instead of a full chassis what about strengthening the one you have?
First go around all the tubes with a small hammer and tap them, if rusty inside they will be dull, else they will 'ding'. If you can get one use an ultrasonic probe to check. Mark any dodgy tubes for chopping out and replacing. If most are easily accessible then maybe the job can be done in situ?
The area round the back of the diff is like a big trapezoid and could to with some diagonal bracing.
Adding a roll bar at the back - or some of it, stiffens up the rear.
Make sure all the body mounts are sound as the tub stiffens the chassis a little.
The central tunnel could be stiffened up with additional diagonals.
Downside is that there's a weight penalty adding the extra metal, but on the other hand you save when you chop out corrosion!
I strengthened the chassis on my S1 by welding in triangular fillet pieces (58 of them) First go around all the tubes with a small hammer and tap them, if rusty inside they will be dull, else they will 'ding'. If you can get one use an ultrasonic probe to check. Mark any dodgy tubes for chopping out and replacing. If most are easily accessible then maybe the job can be done in situ?
The area round the back of the diff is like a big trapezoid and could to with some diagonal bracing.
Adding a roll bar at the back - or some of it, stiffens up the rear.
Make sure all the body mounts are sound as the tub stiffens the chassis a little.
The central tunnel could be stiffened up with additional diagonals.
Downside is that there's a weight penalty adding the extra metal, but on the other hand you save when you chop out corrosion!
Thanks all, very helpful replies. First thing I should of course do is get a proper inspection done so either with the tapping or a proper probe etc.
As the car has had a roll bar for many years it’s stiffer than it originally was but obviously other areas may have weakened since.
The car is always garaged and doesn’t get huge use these days (unfortunately its actually very little) so at least hasn’t had the elements to deal with much.
Whatever I do (except nothing) will prob cost arm & a leg as I dont have space (skills or inclination or time) to do much myself. I’ll get the inspection sorted then follow up with the recommended firms.
Thanks again
As the car has had a roll bar for many years it’s stiffer than it originally was but obviously other areas may have weakened since.
The car is always garaged and doesn’t get huge use these days (unfortunately its actually very little) so at least hasn’t had the elements to deal with much.
Whatever I do (except nothing) will prob cost arm & a leg as I dont have space (skills or inclination or time) to do much myself. I’ll get the inspection sorted then follow up with the recommended firms.
Thanks again
Good stuff. Re-reading this I forgot the obvious, find any cracks, and have them welded up, and maybe sleeved too. Ones at the outrigger rear tubes give a very soft "bum" feel (but don't affect the handling much.)
Those triangular fillets look good - not much weight added. Did it get much stiffer? (Ohh err)
Those triangular fillets look good - not much weight added. Did it get much stiffer? (Ohh err)
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