Play at track rod to rack joint
Discussion
Hi,I have play at the joint of track rod ballto steering rack on early Tasmin mk1 fhc .Am I right in saying under bellows there is a lockout over the ball joint of the track rod which is pinned.Can you drill out the pins and tighten to remove play.drill and re pin to lock .If so are the pins available ? .If not is it a replacement rack ? Cortina mk4/5 ? Thanks dave
Sounds like play in the track rod end.
They are pretty cheap (20 for a pair..), just replace them.
Numbers probably here
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
They are pretty cheap (20 for a pair..), just replace them.
Numbers probably here
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
No idea if they are available ..
I sent my rack to Clinton's..
https://steering-racks.co.uk/boxes-cars/
I sent my rack to Clinton's..
https://steering-racks.co.uk/boxes-cars/
rev-erend said:
No idea if they are available ..
I sent my rack to Clinton's..
https://steering-racks.co.uk/boxes-cars/
Likewise I'd always use Clinton's. Cheers I sent my rack to Clinton's..
https://steering-racks.co.uk/boxes-cars/
Correct terminology is important.
The part you describe is called the Track Rod, and consists of the threaded rod and the inner ball joint. It screws directly to the toothed sliding bar (rack) of the steering rack, behind the bellows. Sometimes a sacrificial locking washer is used, other times 'Loctite'. Care must be taken not to put undue stress on the rack bar when changing the Track Rod
The Track Rod End is the shorter outer joint that screws on to the Track Rod, connecting it to the steering arm on the hub upright, and allowing toe adjustment with a lock nut.
Track Rods are simply replaced rather than adjusted these days, although I have seen some recrimped in a press to 'tighten' them up.
The part you describe is called the Track Rod, and consists of the threaded rod and the inner ball joint. It screws directly to the toothed sliding bar (rack) of the steering rack, behind the bellows. Sometimes a sacrificial locking washer is used, other times 'Loctite'. Care must be taken not to put undue stress on the rack bar when changing the Track Rod
The Track Rod End is the shorter outer joint that screws on to the Track Rod, connecting it to the steering arm on the hub upright, and allowing toe adjustment with a lock nut.
Track Rods are simply replaced rather than adjusted these days, although I have seen some recrimped in a press to 'tighten' them up.
TwinKam said:
Correct terminology is important.
The part you describe is called the Track Rod, and consists of the threaded rod and the inner ball joint. It screws directly to the toothed sliding bar (rack) of the steering rack, behind the bellows. Sometimes a sacrificial locking washer is used, other times 'Loctite'. Care must be taken not to put undue stress on the rack bar when changing the Track Rod
The Track Rod End is the shorter outer joint that screws on to the Track Rod, connecting it to the steering arm on the hub upright, and allowing toe adjustment with a lock nut.
Track Rods are simply replaced rather than adjusted these days, although I have seen some recrimped in a press to 'tighten' them up.
IIRC on many racks, the inner end of the track rod wears but may be shimmed out within reason. It's a steel ball on the end of the track road which sits in a concave cup in th rack. Are some nylon rather than steel?The part you describe is called the Track Rod, and consists of the threaded rod and the inner ball joint. It screws directly to the toothed sliding bar (rack) of the steering rack, behind the bellows. Sometimes a sacrificial locking washer is used, other times 'Loctite'. Care must be taken not to put undue stress on the rack bar when changing the Track Rod
The Track Rod End is the shorter outer joint that screws on to the Track Rod, connecting it to the steering arm on the hub upright, and allowing toe adjustment with a lock nut.
Track Rods are simply replaced rather than adjusted these days, although I have seen some recrimped in a press to 'tighten' them up.
On our racks the inner ball joint is resting in a nylon bearing cup (inside that end cap that is split pinned).
I had a minor amount of play on one end of mine, so I did exactly what you are suggesting, took out the split pin and cranked the cap up half a turn which removed the play. This got me through the MoT and has lasted a couple of years now.
However you do run the risk of eating right through the nylon and when the track rod inner bearing meets the metal face of the rack end, after grinding all the way through, the fix will be much more expensive. You will have to weigh this up for yourself, but if you only do very little mileage it's probably worth just nipping it up.
The stupid nylon ends are by themselves quite expensive, I've seen £30 or thereabouts, for a little nylon cup.
I had a minor amount of play on one end of mine, so I did exactly what you are suggesting, took out the split pin and cranked the cap up half a turn which removed the play. This got me through the MoT and has lasted a couple of years now.
However you do run the risk of eating right through the nylon and when the track rod inner bearing meets the metal face of the rack end, after grinding all the way through, the fix will be much more expensive. You will have to weigh this up for yourself, but if you only do very little mileage it's probably worth just nipping it up.
The stupid nylon ends are by themselves quite expensive, I've seen £30 or thereabouts, for a little nylon cup.
On the top one you will see some flats on the bar, you can get a spanner on that. The nylon cup(s) is inside the metal cup that is screwed onto the end. Yes, it's pinned, so you'll have to break the pin when undoing it or indeed nipping it up.
For the lower one, if the up/down play doesn't affect the steering angle, then leave it alone.
If you don't want to tackle this then it's rack out and off for a refurb.
For the lower one, if the up/down play doesn't affect the steering angle, then leave it alone.
If you don't want to tackle this then it's rack out and off for a refurb.
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