Discussion
It's hydraulic - so no adjustment.. sorry.
Check for oil and other possible contaninents - you can spray break cleaner thru any possible oriface on to the clutch housing in the hope of washing off oil & fluid but if it's knackered then £nnnn.
I have parts numbers if you want them but it's a big job to replace the clutch - engine crane : engine move / out .. total job time = 12~14 hrs : so 1 weekend.. blood/sweat/tears/skin etc..
Parts - about £300 ..if DIY
>> Edited by rev-erend on Friday 5th August 22:43
Check for oil and other possible contaninents - you can spray break cleaner thru any possible oriface on to the clutch housing in the hope of washing off oil & fluid but if it's knackered then £nnnn.
I have parts numbers if you want them but it's a big job to replace the clutch - engine crane : engine move / out .. total job time = 12~14 hrs : so 1 weekend.. blood/sweat/tears/skin etc..
Parts - about £300 ..if DIY
>> Edited by rev-erend on Friday 5th August 22:43
Some weeks ago I was worried the clutch might need replacing on my car. The slave and master cylinders were replaced, and now it all seems to have settled down and is working fine.
However, I checked out what might be needed after Rev had scared me when he said engine out 12 hours etc.. My mech said it would be 5 hours work and engine would not need to come out. He was quite sure that he could remove and replace with all in situ.
I'm not saying that Rev is wrong, that is just what I was told for my car.
Are there any differences for slightly different cars?
JJ
However, I checked out what might be needed after Rev had scared me when he said engine out 12 hours etc.. My mech said it would be 5 hours work and engine would not need to come out. He was quite sure that he could remove and replace with all in situ.
I'm not saying that Rev is wrong, that is just what I was told for my car.
Are there any differences for slightly different cars?
JJ
Two schools of thought
1 Engine out and makes whole lot easier to get to, due to cross member under gearbox.
2 Slide gearox back down the tunnel, move engine foward a couple of inches by only undoing engine mounts and suspending on hoist, then a small armed midget can just about get to the bolts to undo clutch.
I favour the second method and this worked for me when the clutch release bearing came adrift ( without moving the engine)
1 Engine out and makes whole lot easier to get to, due to cross member under gearbox.
2 Slide gearox back down the tunnel, move engine foward a couple of inches by only undoing engine mounts and suspending on hoist, then a small armed midget can just about get to the bolts to undo clutch.
I favour the second method and this worked for me when the clutch release bearing came adrift ( without moving the engine)
I have had the clutch slip in 5th only a few times, only for the slipping to go away of its own accord.
I think sometimes a bit of crud can get onto the clutch surfaces and then get worn off afterwards.
So if it isn't severe, just wait for it to go away. Also - don't ride the clutch pedal with your left foot (I know there isn't anywhere else to put it!!)
I think sometimes a bit of crud can get onto the clutch surfaces and then get worn off afterwards.
So if it isn't severe, just wait for it to go away. Also - don't ride the clutch pedal with your left foot (I know there isn't anywhere else to put it!!)
ssc1 said:
i would really like to know how they do the job without moving the engine as i'm in the middle of removing the gearbox and trying to fing ways of doing it without buying an engine hoist ..
I agree as I tried to take gearbox out, but gets stuck on clutch cover.
Hire a crane, or borrow mine, only used it once to remove the wedge engine
Not too far from you and if you can wait I will be back in Northampton again soon I think, or Coventry and could drop it off ?
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