Rear UJ replacement

[350wedge]

Can anyone tell me how much I should be budgeting for to replace all four driveshaft UJ's on a 350i ?? How long should it take to remove and replace....

[adam quantrill]

The UJ's aren't that expensive, make sure you get the grease nipple ones though.

I have done one side in an afternoon.

You don't have to dismantle the entire suspension, just take off the bottom shock mount and the bottom link inboard bolt, and undo the 4 nuts on the driveshaft. Strictly speaking use new nuts.

You'll also need circlip pliers.

Oh, and a day or two before you do it, give the UJ bearing cups a squirt with WD40.

If you find that the new bearing shell doesn't seat properly (i.e. you can't get the circlip in) then one of the needle bearings has probably dropped inwards during reassembly. It can be a bit fiddly to put them back in.

>> Edited by adam quantrill on Monday 8th August 17:26

[rev-erend]

RT racing usually has a stock of them..

I think the 350i UJ's were straight from a Jag too..

[350wedge]

Is this a job that can be done by someone without a massive amount of mechanics experience??

While I can cope with stuff like doing oil/filter changes and have changed a couple of radiators in my time I would'nt like to start a job like this without knowing i can deal with any problems that may arise.

What sort of things are likely to go wrong when changing UJ's. Will i need any special tools etc? i have the usual sockets, spanners etc but nothing specialised.....



>> Edited by 350wedge on Monday 8th August 18:29

[jmorgan]

Did post this earlier but thought you knew
link

Sort of what to do but in your case on the car.

I think the worst thing is damaging the yokes or getting a stray needle bearing under the cap on the end of the yoke where it shouldn't be and splitting it.

[gsx600]

350wedge said:

Is this a job that can be done by someone without a massive amount of mechanics experience?? What sort of things are likely to go wrong when changing UJ's. Will i need any special tools etc? i have the usual sockets, spanners etc but nothing specialised..... >> Edited by 350wedge on Monday 8th August 18:29

I think it is easier to remove the rear hub, so some big spanners needed for that to start of with, unbolting from the diff is easy, then trying to remove replace 4 joints is time consuming and I found quite awkward - would rather take an engine out !!

[SEvans]

It is possible to replace the UJ's without removing the drive shaft but wouldn't recommend it. Best to take the drive shaft out. Shouldn't be too much of a problem to remove the 4 bolts on the inner flange as long as they are not corroded. The big nut on the drive shaft is another matter. To do this I found a 3/4" drive socket set was the only sure way. Once the drive shaft is off replacing the uj's isn't too bad, a good vice helps. Use good quality UJ's (Hardy Spicer?) and with grease nipples. Make sure you put these in the correct way. I put one in the wrong way round and now find I can't get the grease gun on. Guess which one is going to wear out first.

[njhucker]

I had a rear wheel bearing go last November. Didn't fancy doing the job myself, so got Roath Garage in Cardiff to replace the bearings on both sides, and thought while they were at it, might as well replace the uj's on the drive shaft, as not sure how many miles they had done.
Cost:
Uj's £63.52
Bearings £92.56
Labour £160
All above + vat

[shpub]

Covered in detail in the bible. Don't forget they are several different UJ sizes so measure and compare before buying. If you take the drive shaft out you will need a very big torque wrench to tighten the big nut. Not unknown for this to come undone with disasterous results. The 520's are pinned BTW.

[350wedge]

Many thanks for all the replies. I spent last night studying my wedge bible as well. Does'nt look like too bad a job but as you say a bit time consuming. Am missing a couple of items such as a huge torque wrench!!

I may well have a crack at doing this myself but was wondering if anyone thats knows what they're doing would be willing to help me out as and when i decide to replace them. They dont need doing just yet but will need doing within the next few months. I'm in Aylesbury if there is anyone fairly local.....

[adam quantrill]

You only need the torque wrench if you undo the hub nut, I don't think that's compulsory. I've certainly done both inboard and outboard ones and left the bearing intact.

If you have trouble getting to the UJ's there's always the option of removing the trailing arm complete with the hub (or is it A-frame?)

[ouiseyg]

I replaced the outer UJ by taking the shaft off with the hub all in one absolute doddle. Id just put some Spax adjustables on and at there full expanse you still could just about get the hub and A frame bolt out without the use of coil spring compressors. The only prob I did have was cadging a socket to undo those stupid shaped diff nuts. I found a long 11/16" socket 1/2" drive with about 17ft of extention bars to clear the wheel arch to get the extra leverage required to crack the nuts. A bit of a faf having to spin the diff to get good access on each nut but just time consuming. Once out as stated a good vice and a helpful friend as with the hub on it can be a bit of a handful to get in the right positions as the hub weighs a bit. I still think a damn sight easier than undoing the hub nut with your piece of scaffolding though!!!!

[gf350]

Took the drive shafts with hubs attached into Tower View for new UJ's and they said the drive shafts had to come out of the hubs to fit and I would need new wheel bearings as well as these tend to disintergrate when the shafts come out.
Total cost about £500 but that was the shafts off the car.

GF

[350zwelgje]

gf350 said:

Took the drive shafts with hubs attached into Tower View for new UJ's and they said the drive shafts had to come out of the hubs to fit and I would need new wheel bearings as well as these tend to disintergrate when the shafts come out. Total cost about £500 but that was the shafts off the car. GF

Replaced all UJs by taking both hubs of. Gave them an extra grease before putting it all together, no problems yet (4000 miles on) with the rear wheel bearings. Think that if you have the big tools, taking the hubs off should not be an issue. Only if they are disintegrating of course.

Rob