Thinking of buying a wedgie..
Discussion
Newbie here
Always wanted one of these and I have seen a nice one
could do with some pointers
Sorry for the naive questions
What should I look out for ?
Does the chassis rust ? where?
Any weak points mechanically ?/chassis ?
The one I am looking at is a V6 any weak areas?
I see these are 4 speeds and some have 5 speed conversions which gearbox(es) fit ?
I see some have fitted the V8 to it
is this easy to do ?
Always wanted one of these and I have seen a nice one
could do with some pointers
Sorry for the naive questions
What should I look out for ?
Does the chassis rust ? where?
Any weak points mechanically ?/chassis ?
The one I am looking at is a V6 any weak areas?
I see these are 4 speeds and some have 5 speed conversions which gearbox(es) fit ?
I see some have fitted the V8 to it
is this easy to do ?
Hi ylee. The V8's were factory fitted from 1984 on. Requires the later chassis as it was too narrow in the engine bay on the ford engined models. Some have done a conversion, but why not just buy a 350?
Outriggers rust, check carefully under the sills.
Hope you find the right one.
>> Edited by tallbloke on Monday 15th August 15:47
Outriggers rust, check carefully under the sills.
Hope you find the right one.
>> Edited by tallbloke on Monday 15th August 15:47
Hi ylee,
Mine's currently for sale.
www.pistonheads.com/sales/45494.htm
Come and take a look if you fancy a trip South (Manchester).
I'm a long time wedger (see profile) and will give honest answers.
FYI: Mine's a 5 speed, 2.8 V6 with a good chassis, very good electrics and an excellent hood.
All the best.
Bob.
*apologies forthe blatant plug
*
Mine's currently for sale.
www.pistonheads.com/sales/45494.htm
Come and take a look if you fancy a trip South (Manchester).
I'm a long time wedger (see profile) and will give honest answers.
FYI: Mine's a 5 speed, 2.8 V6 with a good chassis, very good electrics and an excellent hood.
All the best.
Bob.
*apologies forthe blatant plug
*hi ylee try looking on [url] www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk.html
[/url] you`ll find a wealth of info on models and what to look for, good luck.
[/url] you`ll find a wealth of info on models and what to look for, good luck.
Have a look at the cosworth conversions here:
www.pixeltechnology.co.uk/wedge/project_cars_cosworth.html
and here:
http://home.btconnect.com/s_evans1/PICT0532.JPG
www.pixeltechnology.co.uk/wedge/project_cars_cosworth.html
and here:
http://home.btconnect.com/s_evans1/PICT0532.JPG
Ok,
Does the chassis rust? Yes, check the extremities first, ie outriggers and the back of the main chassis spine where the lower diff mount is. Outrigger rot is not so bad on the early FHC cars 'cos this can just about be done with the body on are removing the sill trims, if your welding skills are up to scratch. On later cars the sill trims are part of the body and its often a body off job to weld the outriggers. To give you an idea, my FHC had had replacement outriggers, the whole length across the back of the chassis spine from outrigger to outrigger and the cross bars at the front of the chassis including the radiator mounts.
Mechanical weak points. The bosch fuel injection systems is great when it works, and a right bugger when it doesnt, the main points of failure are perished air hoses (the whole thing system works on air pressure differentials and an air leak will do all sorts of wierd things to the engine, often intermittenly when vibrations cause the cracks to open and close) and the warm up regulator can start to corrode internally if the car isnt used regularly.
On the whole parts avalibility is pretty good, even though Ford no longer seem to support them.
One potential weak point in the chassis design is the canterlevered pivot of the semi-trailing arm which can bend and alter the rear suspension geometry. I think all the specialists have their own in house solutions to this weakness.
The V6 came with a four speed box as standard, the old Capri Type E box, with later models having the option of the Sierra Type N five speed. These are not direct swaps, the 5spd is actually shorter than the 4spd and will need either the prop shaft altering or engine moving to suit and some fettling of the mounts.
A V8 into a series one is a no no, unless you have a spare 10k that i've heard quoted to do one by a Wedge racing specialist. It involves chassis and body chopping, custom exhausts etc etc. In short its not worth the hassle, either get a fixed head 350 or try a 24v Cossie upgrade. There is a 24v Cossie engine knocking about at the mo, but its a race prepped one and going for a fair few pounds, more than a lot of series 1 cars are selling for, theres also gearbox and suspension bits from the same accident available too (last i heard).
The diffs are Jag XJ6 origin, typically 3.54 ratio. Dont go for a Jag Powerlock diff on the 2.8, the engine doesnt have to power (sorry more correctly torque) to make the car drivable with that LSD. You'd need a correcly set up Quaife unit or similar.
Any more questions, ask away!
Regards
Iain
(there's probably a load of typos up there so please ignore them!)
Does the chassis rust? Yes, check the extremities first, ie outriggers and the back of the main chassis spine where the lower diff mount is. Outrigger rot is not so bad on the early FHC cars 'cos this can just about be done with the body on are removing the sill trims, if your welding skills are up to scratch. On later cars the sill trims are part of the body and its often a body off job to weld the outriggers. To give you an idea, my FHC had had replacement outriggers, the whole length across the back of the chassis spine from outrigger to outrigger and the cross bars at the front of the chassis including the radiator mounts.
Mechanical weak points. The bosch fuel injection systems is great when it works, and a right bugger when it doesnt, the main points of failure are perished air hoses (the whole thing system works on air pressure differentials and an air leak will do all sorts of wierd things to the engine, often intermittenly when vibrations cause the cracks to open and close) and the warm up regulator can start to corrode internally if the car isnt used regularly.
On the whole parts avalibility is pretty good, even though Ford no longer seem to support them.
One potential weak point in the chassis design is the canterlevered pivot of the semi-trailing arm which can bend and alter the rear suspension geometry. I think all the specialists have their own in house solutions to this weakness.
The V6 came with a four speed box as standard, the old Capri Type E box, with later models having the option of the Sierra Type N five speed. These are not direct swaps, the 5spd is actually shorter than the 4spd and will need either the prop shaft altering or engine moving to suit and some fettling of the mounts.
A V8 into a series one is a no no, unless you have a spare 10k that i've heard quoted to do one by a Wedge racing specialist. It involves chassis and body chopping, custom exhausts etc etc. In short its not worth the hassle, either get a fixed head 350 or try a 24v Cossie upgrade. There is a 24v Cossie engine knocking about at the mo, but its a race prepped one and going for a fair few pounds, more than a lot of series 1 cars are selling for, theres also gearbox and suspension bits from the same accident available too (last i heard).
The diffs are Jag XJ6 origin, typically 3.54 ratio. Dont go for a Jag Powerlock diff on the 2.8, the engine doesnt have to power (sorry more correctly torque) to make the car drivable with that LSD. You'd need a correcly set up Quaife unit or similar.
Any more questions, ask away!
Regards
Iain
(there's probably a load of typos up there so please ignore them!)
ylee coyote said:
The engine I am thinking of is a tuned Saab turbo engine
Later engines use a GM bolt pattern so there are bellhousing conversions available
400 hp and 400 ftlbs of torque..
so this will need a proper lsd
lighter and more powerfull just what the doctor ordered !!
You're clearly as mad as the rest of us. I've never heard of that one before but why not? It may be worth trying to have a chat to SEVANS who has done a good job of letting a Cossie in to the car: www.pistonheads.com/members/showProfile.asp?memberId=14681
Standard Salisbury should be OK, just. Tyres are going to be a problem. You can't get good performance rubber for 14" wheels so Steve switched to 15". You could try 205/55/15s f and 225/50/15s r hmmm. As mentioned before the rear suspension could really do with the A-frame, Ian has tried this but I don't know whether he finished it: www.pistonheads.com/members/showProfile.asp?memberId=23527
You will also find the front brakes lacking. Quite a few people have a good set up, esp CIRKS: www.pistonheads.com/members/showProfile.asp?memberId=1849
Just check the chassis for rust and the bodywork for cracks. It doesn't sound like you'll want too many mechanical bits.
ylee coyote said:
The engine I am thinking of is a tuned Saab turbo engine
lighter and more powerfull just what the doctor ordered !!
Cor!
Sounds like you'll be letting yourself in for a bit of work then. On the upside, the Jag rear end is capable of taking the power, though you'll be needing an expensive lsd and the A frame rear lower wishbone suspension conversion. Ian Greenwood has done one of those on his race chassis. The big issue will be the setting of the engine in the bay I think. It's a deep engine, and the room for exhausts past a canted block may be problematic. Fibreglass doesn't transfer heat well.
I see from your profile you have a tuned saab already, but have you considered a chevy LS6 all alloy motor? 400 ponies out of the crate with reliability and light wieght.
The Tasmin race boys are getting 400 horses from the RS cosworth 4 cyl turbo engine too, which is much easier to fit.
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