Removing The Diff
Discussion
I want to refurb the rear end following my MOT failure for dodgy rear breaks so I've decided to do the whole lot drive shafts, UJs etc. Can anyone tell me the sequence for removal along with any useful tips. The car's totally stripped so cutting holes for access wont be a problem.
Thanx guys
Thanx guys
If you are renewing the uj's, it may be easier to slacken the large hub nuts whilst the car is on the ground. You'll need an
1 1/2" AF socket, preferably 3/4 " drive, and a long ratchet. They should be at least 230 lbs ft. Have the car in gear and handbrake on. After slackening, remove wheels and support securely on axle stands.
remove 4 nuts and bolts from the prop/diff. flanges. Use handbrake to prevent prop turning. Should be able to do 2 before turning the prop to get access to the other 2.
Remove driveshaft flange nuts from diff bolts. Use handbrake to prevent driveshafts turning. Should be able to do 2 before turning the driveshafts to get access to the other 2.
Remove the nuts/bolts from the tie bar/hub carriers and swing the bars upwards.
Slacken the bolts thro' the lower wishbones/hub carriers to allow the hub carriers to pivot.
Pull the driveshaft flanges off the diff. bolts, remove the hub nuts, pivot the hub carrier downwards, slide the driveshaft spline end from the hub and remove the driveshaft.
Disconnect handbrake cable from handbrake calipers.
Remove 4 nuts and bolts from lower wishbones/diff. cradle. Remove 4 nuts only (not bolts at this stage) from diff cradle/chassis.
You may need to remove the section of exhaust which runs across the rear of the car, or it may be sufficient to completely slacken the nuts/bolts that secure the exhaust mount through the boot floor, to enable the exhaust to be moved sufficiently to allow removal of the rear 2 horizontal diff cradle/chassis bolts. Don't remove these bolts yet.
Disconnect the brake line at the joint on top of the diff. beam, and seal the outlets.
Remove the 2 vertical nuts/bolts from the rear of the diff cradle / chassis.
Lever the inner wishbone mountings from the diff. cradle. The hub and wishbone assemblies will now only be secured by the dampers, so support these assemblies on blocks or similar.
Place a trolley jack (or two if available) underneath the diff., with a sufficiently strong sheet of wood to support the weight of the diff., on top of the jacks.
At this stage the diff. assembly is still secured by 2 nuts/bolts to the diff beam, and 4 bolts (nuts already removed) thro' the front and rear of the diff cradle to the chassis. Making sure that the diff. is properly supported, remove these 2 nuts and 4 bolts. The diff & cradle can now be very carefully lowered from the chassis.
I think I've covered everything, although certain steps can be taken in a slightly different order, this worked for me a couple of weeks ago. No doubt if I've missed something, someone will spot it.
Good luck.
7.
1 1/2" AF socket, preferably 3/4 " drive, and a long ratchet. They should be at least 230 lbs ft. Have the car in gear and handbrake on. After slackening, remove wheels and support securely on axle stands.
remove 4 nuts and bolts from the prop/diff. flanges. Use handbrake to prevent prop turning. Should be able to do 2 before turning the prop to get access to the other 2.
Remove driveshaft flange nuts from diff bolts. Use handbrake to prevent driveshafts turning. Should be able to do 2 before turning the driveshafts to get access to the other 2.
Remove the nuts/bolts from the tie bar/hub carriers and swing the bars upwards.
Slacken the bolts thro' the lower wishbones/hub carriers to allow the hub carriers to pivot.
Pull the driveshaft flanges off the diff. bolts, remove the hub nuts, pivot the hub carrier downwards, slide the driveshaft spline end from the hub and remove the driveshaft.
Disconnect handbrake cable from handbrake calipers.
Remove 4 nuts and bolts from lower wishbones/diff. cradle. Remove 4 nuts only (not bolts at this stage) from diff cradle/chassis.
You may need to remove the section of exhaust which runs across the rear of the car, or it may be sufficient to completely slacken the nuts/bolts that secure the exhaust mount through the boot floor, to enable the exhaust to be moved sufficiently to allow removal of the rear 2 horizontal diff cradle/chassis bolts. Don't remove these bolts yet.
Disconnect the brake line at the joint on top of the diff. beam, and seal the outlets.
Remove the 2 vertical nuts/bolts from the rear of the diff cradle / chassis.
Lever the inner wishbone mountings from the diff. cradle. The hub and wishbone assemblies will now only be secured by the dampers, so support these assemblies on blocks or similar.
Place a trolley jack (or two if available) underneath the diff., with a sufficiently strong sheet of wood to support the weight of the diff., on top of the jacks.
At this stage the diff. assembly is still secured by 2 nuts/bolts to the diff beam, and 4 bolts (nuts already removed) thro' the front and rear of the diff cradle to the chassis. Making sure that the diff. is properly supported, remove these 2 nuts and 4 bolts. The diff & cradle can now be very carefully lowered from the chassis.
I think I've covered everything, although certain steps can be taken in a slightly different order, this worked for me a couple of weeks ago. No doubt if I've missed something, someone will spot it.
Good luck.
7.
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