400SE rear Shocker Removal
Discussion
Has anyone any really good ideas as to how to get the long bolt attaching the A-Frame to the shockabsorber off??
I've removed the nut for the end and put the socket on the bolt head to try to move it, but so far i've snapped the socket, grazed my leg, cut my knuckes and spread blood liberally over the metal parts.
How the bl**dy H*ll do you get this shaft out.
I'm a bit loath to use heat as i've never really found that it worked, just set fire to the protective coating etc.....
Thank
Snowy
I've removed the nut for the end and put the socket on the bolt head to try to move it, but so far i've snapped the socket, grazed my leg, cut my knuckes and spread blood liberally over the metal parts.
How the bl**dy H*ll do you get this shaft out.
I'm a bit loath to use heat as i've never really found that it worked, just set fire to the protective coating etc.....
Thank
Snowy
I did this last week, it tore up the bushing in the A-arm, with only mild turning of the bolts. I then had to hack saw through many bolts to remove the A arm. Then you have to decide on which type of bushings to replace the A arm ones with.
(I decided to go with the originals, but below is my take on the options )
The pros/cons are as follows:
Original: You know they work, as there are no sliding surfaces they last a long time and give reasonable ride quality. They also compensate for crappy TVR build tolerances. The rubber is bonded to the shells, and the shear within the rubber makes the bearing. They can be tricky to install if you don't have the right interference fit. Also the most expensive option at £10 each!
Nylon: unlike the originals there is no complience, and there is a rubbing surface so you have to keep them lubricated. Expect a harsh ride. Nylon also absorbs a lot of water and swells up (about 10% of its weight) so expect a short life time. Aparently gives a superbly predictable handling though. Best installed by a professional, as there will likely be isses with the build tolerances of the suspension.
PolyUrethane: Again a sliding surface as the shells are not bonded, They suffer from sticktion, and creaking noises and must be lubricated often. Very easy to fit, but there may be insurance issues if a bush failure causes a crash. Very cheap, and a good option if you only plan to put a few miles on your car each year. The makers of the original metalastic torsion bush have an interesting article on thier website as to why you should not fit these, but I guess they are a bit biased! Probably the best option for the DIY mechanic, who neither has a press or a micrometer.
Hope that sounded unbiased!
-Jim
(I decided to go with the originals, but below is my take on the options )
The pros/cons are as follows:
Original: You know they work, as there are no sliding surfaces they last a long time and give reasonable ride quality. They also compensate for crappy TVR build tolerances. The rubber is bonded to the shells, and the shear within the rubber makes the bearing. They can be tricky to install if you don't have the right interference fit. Also the most expensive option at £10 each!
Nylon: unlike the originals there is no complience, and there is a rubbing surface so you have to keep them lubricated. Expect a harsh ride. Nylon also absorbs a lot of water and swells up (about 10% of its weight) so expect a short life time. Aparently gives a superbly predictable handling though. Best installed by a professional, as there will likely be isses with the build tolerances of the suspension.
PolyUrethane: Again a sliding surface as the shells are not bonded, They suffer from sticktion, and creaking noises and must be lubricated often. Very easy to fit, but there may be insurance issues if a bush failure causes a crash. Very cheap, and a good option if you only plan to put a few miles on your car each year. The makers of the original metalastic torsion bush have an interesting article on thier website as to why you should not fit these, but I guess they are a bit biased! Probably the best option for the DIY mechanic, who neither has a press or a micrometer.
Hope that sounded unbiased!
-Jim
Nice summary.
Just to add my 2p, before I put poly bushes on the rear of the old wedge (trailing arm), you could wiggle the inner end of the lower link backwards and forwards by about 3 inches when reassembling the suspension.
While this made it easy to put together, it didn't do much for my confidence in the wheels pointing in the correct direction under either braking or acceleration.
After the poly bushes went on, the wiggle was much lower, under half an inch, maybe a quarter. The wheels are kept pointing the same way better and the handling is much more predictable under wheelspin. It does mean that you have to assemble the rear suspension in a particular order though, lower link on last. Of course this might not apply in the same way to 'A' frame cars.
>> Edited by adam quantrill on Tuesday 27th September 11:46
Just to add my 2p, before I put poly bushes on the rear of the old wedge (trailing arm), you could wiggle the inner end of the lower link backwards and forwards by about 3 inches when reassembling the suspension.
While this made it easy to put together, it didn't do much for my confidence in the wheels pointing in the correct direction under either braking or acceleration.
After the poly bushes went on, the wiggle was much lower, under half an inch, maybe a quarter. The wheels are kept pointing the same way better and the handling is much more predictable under wheelspin. It does mean that you have to assemble the rear suspension in a particular order though, lower link on last. Of course this might not apply in the same way to 'A' frame cars.
>> Edited by adam quantrill on Tuesday 27th September 11:46
adam quantrill said:
Of course this might not apply in the same way to 'A' frame cars.
For the A-frame cars I would recommend the original at the rear. There is a short "trailing arm" at the front of the A- frame which rotates in an arc at 90 degrees to the arc of the A-frame. The suspension only works because of the compliance of the bushes.
As part of the service these bolts should be removed and copper greased to keep them free but this rarely gets done and they rust in place. If you try to turn them they may shear in place. The method that I used was:
exactly as the rev described; it work perfectly.
rev-erend said:
1. Make sure you can buy a new nut & bolt ..
2. Loads of plus gas every where .. leave it soak for a day and keep re-applying it..
3. Next day - put the nut back on - 3/4 on .. then hit it hard with a club hammer.. no mercy
exactly as the rev described; it work perfectly.
Hi JR,
I agree about the short trailing arms (TVR call them trailing links) Mine already had the front ends of the trailing lnks rose jointed when I got the car. The rose joints were so badly worn they had started to wear the chassis mounting lug holes into ovals - bad idea!
Not sure I would agree about the regular application of the copper slip to the A frame bushes - after all that bolt should not be rotating inside the crush tube of the torsion bushing, like you say all the movement is within the rubber bit, there are no sliding surfaces in the original design, as the rubber is bonded to the bushings' shells.
-Jim
I agree about the short trailing arms (TVR call them trailing links) Mine already had the front ends of the trailing lnks rose jointed when I got the car. The rose joints were so badly worn they had started to wear the chassis mounting lug holes into ovals - bad idea!
Not sure I would agree about the regular application of the copper slip to the A frame bushes - after all that bolt should not be rotating inside the crush tube of the torsion bushing, like you say all the movement is within the rubber bit, there are no sliding surfaces in the original design, as the rubber is bonded to the bushings' shells.
-Jim
Many thanks to you all for your help. Now that I've cleaned the blood up, purchased a T-Bar and hex socket, its all starting to rotate.
I also bought a dozen hacksaw blades to assist with the disassembly!!
RT at Sheffield also suggested the hacksaw approach, and they stock the replacement parts and will push a new bush in (for a price).
Will keep you posted on the rebuild.
Snowy
I also bought a dozen hacksaw blades to assist with the disassembly!!
RT at Sheffield also suggested the hacksaw approach, and they stock the replacement parts and will push a new bush in (for a price).
Will keep you posted on the rebuild.
Snowy
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