how many dash switches you got?

[petercam]

long post coming up, and I know this will be met with the usual differing answers, but I'm working to get the 350i into some shape for an MOT. All major stuff is done, but the wiring remains to be sorted. I have 3 switches on the centre console that do nothing, and one plug inside the console that probably should have some sort of switch connected to it.
Anyway, I have 2 window switches, 1 side/dipped light switch, 1 hazzard switch in the centre console that all work.
My front and rear fogs do not work, nor does the blower. The rear fogs are wired at the light cluster, but the front fogs are not. The blower appears to be wired too. What should I have for the blower control? (Series 1 350i 1984). Rotary switch? If so how many positions? Or is it just an on/off? I think I can figure out the foglights, not so difficult, but the blower might be more tricky.
What has your dash got? Any help appreciated.
edited to say there are no decals/identifiers on the non functioning switches

>>> Edited by petercam on Wednesday 6th November 16:56

[york33]

1983 280i (2+2) fhc.
I have in the dash centre:
fan switch, not rotary (off, slow, fast (urmm, well kind of))
rear fog (I haven't got front fogs)
rear heated window
hazard
side/headlights

In the centre (near elbow+handbrake) I have:
electric windows (x2) unplugged as window frame falls apart atm :-)
dash illumination(low/high)
interior lights(on/on when open door)

Hope your wiring isn't all black like mine, almost all fixed now :-)

HTH
Dave

[petercam]

Cheers Dave, my wiring is colour coded, although it bears very little resemblance to the wiring standard that is printed in the Wedge bible. Your fan switch, does it have built in resistors, or is it just a straight forward switch? I think I need to find one from somewhere, as I identified the fan wiring last night which ends up at an 8 way plug behind the centre switch bank. I am missing a switch for this. Anyone got any ideas where I might get one from?

[SEVANS]

Try a main dealer...18 months back after hunting for the indicator/brake light lenses. I finally resorted to going through a dealer. I was surprised to find out that TVR had 100+ on the shelf.
Another option is to find someone with bits from a Tasmin Race Car conversion.

>> Edited by SEVANS on Thursday 7th November 12:35

[bunter]

If it's any help here's a photo of the dash from my old wedge.

www.tvrccoxford.co.uk/images/dashveneer.jpg

From left to right:
Top: Passenger window, hazard lights, fan (3 position switch: off, slow, fast) had to take it apart once as the copper connections had jumped out of their seating, cigarette lighter, lights, mirror left or right and joystick, driver window.
Bottom: Front fog, Rear Fog

>> Edited by bunter on Friday 8th November 14:18

>> Edited by bunter on Friday 8th November 14:24

[wedg1e]

You can get the switches from a Lucas-Girling dealer; of course you'd need the part number fom the switch... luckily I have those if you need them!
I have several drawings of the wiring congigurations for the wedge switches; if you get stuck as to the supposed function of a switch I can probably ID it for you.

Regards Ian

[petercam]

Ian, that would be great if you could supply me details of wiring/part numbers. If you could e-mail me the details, that would be much appreciated (specifically the heater switch).
Bunter, that photo has really helped, as I can now see that my dash is in pretty poor shape, and there are a few missing bits from it.

[D DOC]

My 84 series 1 has a differnt arrangement to that of bunters, the main difference is the lever type heater controls & the mirror adjustment is on the door, although the fan switch is similar the fog lights are onthe top row right. let me know if you require any more info & I will investigate further.

Dave
ps nice to hear from a series 1

[york33]

>

petercam said: Your fan switch, >does it have built in resistors, or is it just a >straight forward switch?

Just a straight forward rocker switch, no sign of owt fancy near it :-)

I confess to butchering two of the less useful switches (dash illumination+interior lights) to fix a couple of the others

On a related matter, the fibre optic backlight, it's c&$p. The blackened ends of the fibre don't help. Anyone suggest an alternative?

cheers
Dave

[danny hoffman]

My 350 which has the same dash as the photo has a seperate resistor pack under the dash, so I assume the switch doesn't contain any resistors.

Danny

[petercam]

Just like to say thanks to Wedg1e for the electrical drawings you supplied me. Along with my list of electrical problems, my headlamps stopped working too, a while back, which has been giving me a major headache the last few weeks. I've had the dash/fusebox/relays/headlamps in bits (a pod motor siezed too- but its now fixed), trying to trace this fault, but thanks to the schematics, I've traced the it to the main beam switch on the steering column. I would now consider myself a headlamp pod 'expert', as the winking pod has also been cured as a result of my tinkering .
Also thanks to Noel at V8 for kindly giving me some spare switches he had lying round the workshop. I now have rear foglights and a working blower. The dreaded MOT will now be scheduled in round about Xmas, so fingers crossed.
I will need to replace the main beam switch soon, (although the original one is now working) and I was thinking of fitting one like the Series2 has (the stumpy one). Is the headlamp/indicator/horn/wiper switch from a mk3/4 Escort? Will it fit the series1, or will I need to modify the electrical connections? If the Series2 will not fit, does anyone know what the series1 switch came from?

[frenchtvr]

Hi Peter,
The stumpy switch gear is from the Ford Granada Scorpio. I am not sure if it will fit the original Rover/TR7 column. I changed the entire column in my '87 350i to that from the scorpio. I had to buy a new coupling to mate between the column and the intermediate shaft from TVR, but my local dealer had one on the shelf. The original Rover column has a splined bottom end, while the ford item uses a triangular end. It is also necessary to trim the top cowl to fit the dash and make some narrow spacers for the top bracket. You will also need a different steering wheel boss. The most complicated part was adapting the wiring between the two different systems. I obtained spare sections of harness from a breakers and made an adaptor piece, which plugs into each end of the originals. I hope this helps. If you need any more info email me.
regards,
Mick

[danny hoffman]

I think the series 1 indicator switch is off such wonderful cars such as the Morris Marina, Austin Allegro and maybe even the TR7!

[petercam]

Thanks guys .... I know which cars to look at when I go scrapyard hunting now

[wedg1e]

The actual switch mechanisms on the column are generic types fitted to quite a few cars: what differs is the steel mounting bracket that the switches are rivetted to. So if you can only find, say, a Mini, the switches can be removed from the Mini plate and attached to your 'TR7' type (with a little ingenuity).

Ian

[shpub]

Tis either a TR7 or a Rover SD1 but beware with the SD1 as there are several different versions with different connectors and wiring. I had to move a wir to get a Rover set to work on the 520 when the switchgear died.

steve

[gf350]

Theres a brand new one on e-bay see link below.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1925597018

I think he has got a few as I have already got one off him for a bargain £19.95 as a spare. It looks like a straight swap on mine (same connectors) - only problem is I cant cet the boss off, nuts undone it just wont budge. Let me know how you get yours off, is there a cleaver way to do it?
Gareth.

[petercam]

gf350 said : Let me know how you get yours off, is there a cleaver way to do it?
Gareth.

---

Hi Gareth, I too had trouble getting the steering wheel to budge. The steering shaft is splined at the top, and the boss is splined inside too (assuming its a series 1), and it is a very tight fit. Ended up getting a large flat bladed screwdriver, and inserting it between the collar below the boss and the switch, and twisting the screwdriver gently on both sides. The switch cannot move any further down the steering shaft, so a bit of levering, and eventually the boss will pop off.
Thanks for the link. It looks like a good source for these switches and some other Rover parts too.

Peter