replacing growling rear wheel bearing

[clasabro]

So I have got in there ok. Jousted with the hated sir clip and ousted him from his groove. Thought the bearing would come out easily if it was retained with a circlip, it won't. Anybody know if the bearing is stuck in with bearing fit and needs some heat to come out, if not any ideas before I find somebody with a hydraulic press. Please confirm that the bearing does come outwards(towards the wheel)? Looks as if the inboard retaining bit could have been screwed in with some obscure special tool?

[leorest]

Assuming this is an A-frame rear wheel bearing we're talking about…
90% sure it comes out on the outboard side. It was a few years ago I did it so better wait for confirmation from someone who's done it more recently or has a better memory! Either way I'm sure it comes out on the circlip side.
Mine just tapped out. I just gave it light taps starting at 12 o'clock and worked my way round 2,4,6,8 etc.
If it has been installed with bearing fit then it might have had a seized bearing in the past, which had spun in the casting. If so inspect carefully.
Is it rusty? If so take all the seals out, send her indoors out to the shops, and stick it in the oven for an hour, give it a good soaking in WD and start tapping. If that doesn't do it then bung a friendly mechanic a fiver to press it out in his tea break.
Best of luck
Leo

[wedg1e]

When you say 'inboard retaining bit' I assume you mean the ring with two cutouts in it?
If so, it's actually part of the hub carrier and the cutouts are there for you to get a drift in to knock the bearing out.
It may or may not have bearing fit adhesive depending on who fitted it; it shouldn't have been necessary.
It may take a god clouting to get the braing to move but once it has it should go easily enough.
If it's an alloy bearing carrier then the bearing could be corroded in and you will be in for a riot...

[york33]

you need a much bigger hammer you do

or a friendly garage with a large hydraulic press, I'd go for that if it doesn't respond well to percussion adjustment.....

cheers
Dave

[chassis 33]

If you put a bead of weld down around the race surface, the weld puts the race in tension and shrinks it in the housing making it easier to 'tap' out.

Regards
Iain

[350matt]

Typically it takes about 1-2 Tons to get the bearing to moveif you can tap it out then its needs to go back with bearing fit..
Its a Ford Granada MkII rear wheel bearing and if you can get SKF parts so much the better

Matt

[SEvans]

To get the old one out I ground down a bolster to fit between the grooves then you can hit this with a BIG hammer. Just be careful as the bolsters can chip with metal against metal. I found that it was almost impossible to install a new one by hitting it in with a hammer without damaging it. It took nearly 2 tonnes on a press to get one of the bearings in. I also made a 'T' shaped aluminium plate that sits on the top of the bearing and locates in the bearing inner race. The outer diameter is just slightly smaller than the outer race of the bearing. You could use a socket of the right diameter but I just felt that the aluminium would be kinder on the bearing. If you want to borrow any of the tools let me know. I can't help with the press but I also have a 3/4" drive torque wrench that will do the nut back up to the 230lb/ft. Regards Steve


>> Edited by SEvans on Wednesday 19th October 10:28

[clasabro]

Thanks for all the advice sorry my replies are a bit stop start but i work away so the jobs stop start. Realised fromm your replies that I would have to take the swinging arm off. the retaining wouldn't come off binding on the last few threads, so I left it until I could a thread file and find out what availabiliy was so that lost a week. Nuts off but the arm is rusted onto the shaft, left it to soak inpenetrating oil, another week gone. Should have it off this week then I can give it some serious . Thanks for the offer of tool loan but I can source that from work. First rule keep in with maintenance department.