Discussion
looking at taking the sills off to give the chassis a real good overall clean, fresh paint and new waxoyl.
Looking at the bible it states 3 bolts to remove along with the pop rivets, i can see 1 bolt on the ledge next to the accelerator pedal and one right up behind the seat belt. I know the sills were off about 5 years ago for rust proection but i can't figure how to get the bolts loosened, front one is badly rusted and the rear one is almost impossible to get at.
Is is best to just try and grind them out and replace with new stainless steel ones?
Looking at the bible it states 3 bolts to remove along with the pop rivets, i can see 1 bolt on the ledge next to the accelerator pedal and one right up behind the seat belt. I know the sills were off about 5 years ago for rust proection but i can't figure how to get the bolts loosened, front one is badly rusted and the rear one is almost impossible to get at.
Is is best to just try and grind them out and replace with new stainless steel ones?
Just done this very important job on 390 - sills held on by small bolts each end - if you are lucky they will undo with 10mm socket , if not they snap off which is even better as nothing to undo , then just drill out rivets carefully - don/t damage sill - and cut through adhesive between sill and body each end - sill then pulls off to reveal ....
wedg1e said:
Interesting because my sills do not have any bolts at all, nor holes for them, only a load of pop rivets.
Yeah, the 280 FHC I welded up last year was like that!
Same with me on a '87 350i. Rivets only and found a couple of self tapers that didn't hold anything. So rivets + mastic stuff can be ok. Problem now is that I don't dare to hit the sill when getting in and out, as I think it could come off.
Rob
Just an update ...... drivers side sill is now off but what a real pain, the bolts were just spinning to had to force then off.
"A" frames are rubbed down using a paint scrapper then a wire brush and finally a wire brush attachment on an electric drill, i'll finish the drivers side outriggers tommorrow night before a coat of hammerite and several spray's of waxoyl but the good news is they are totally solid, even still have most of the black paint protection that TVR initially used.
"A" frames are rubbed down using a paint scrapper then a wire brush and finally a wire brush attachment on an electric drill, i'll finish the drivers side outriggers tommorrow night before a coat of hammerite and several spray's of waxoyl but the good news is they are totally solid, even still have most of the black paint protection that TVR initially used.
bilton_d said:
Just an update ...... drivers side sill is now off but what a real pain, the bolts were just spinning to had to force then off.
"A" frames are rubbed down using a paint scrapper then a wire brush and finally a wire brush attachment on an electric drill, i'll finish the drivers side outriggers tommorrow night before a coat of hammerite and several spray's of waxoyl but the good news is they are totally solid, even still have most of the black paint protection that TVR initially used.
Your wedge being from '87, and me having the same experience and it being of the same age. It must be a good-TVR chassis protection year (like in wine, and unpredictable). My chassis is black as well with most of the protection being ok. Only needed to replace the back plates as front ones and outriggers were fine.
By the way, don't do waxoyling. Prefer to touch up instead.
Rob
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