dash lights- improving them
Discussion
As most of you wedge boys know, the lights on the centre console in a wedge are awful. I cant make out my heater controls, and even tho the fibre optics are connected the switches aren't great either.
I've just found some nice small green 12v LED lights with nifty stainless steel bezzels and sealed to IP67!
It measures about 16mm across.
I am thinking to mount one to the side of the console (I've a 91 400se) so as to illuminate across with a nice discreet glow.
Its a simple two wire jobby, but can anyone tell me where would be the best place to pick up the 12v supply? I'm thinking about using the 12v supply to the cigarette lighter illumination so that it comes on with the lights switch, but is there a better idea out there?
Cheers
Andy
I've just found some nice small green 12v LED lights with nifty stainless steel bezzels and sealed to IP67!
It measures about 16mm across.
I am thinking to mount one to the side of the console (I've a 91 400se) so as to illuminate across with a nice discreet glow.
Its a simple two wire jobby, but can anyone tell me where would be the best place to pick up the 12v supply? I'm thinking about using the 12v supply to the cigarette lighter illumination so that it comes on with the lights switch, but is there a better idea out there?
Cheers
Andy
shpub said:
wedg1e said: Dropping resistor is integral; LEDs are only designed to run on abut 2V max so they include the resistor in the pack.
Ian
Except for the ones that don't have it which quickly become fuses...
Steve:
Not being funny but as Andy quoted the 12V @ 20mA in his post, it's obvious he's referring to an LED that runs on 12VDC. Ergo the resistor is included.
I use 24V ones at work (I design radiation warning systems); you poke 24V in, they light. You can even get a 110V AC one...!
Ian
Yep but I have also been supplied on several occassions with the wrong voltage ones and then you look pretty silly when they go pop. Some are described as 12 volt @XX Ma as a typical rating but don't necessary include the dropping resistor. Also many of the really high intensity ones require the external resistor as well. As I said been caught out several times on this by ambigious descrptions.
Got into the habit of checking with a variable power supply....
Once bitten twice shy as they say...
>> Edited by shpub on Friday 13th December 07:43
I have a large green cluster from maplins. i plan to change the existing light source with a high intensity LED one.
I also bought a pack of 12v leds with chrome bezels ok, not IP67, or even IP65 (perhapse they should when you considder the environment its going into!)
from Maplin's. I was planning to put a few in a line at the top shining down over the outside of the switches and heater controls
--------------------------- Dash top
| / / / | | LED's in Holders
| | |
| | | Dials and switches | | | |
Something like this ....
I also bought a pack of 12v leds with chrome bezels ok, not IP67, or even IP65 (perhapse they should when you considder the environment its going into!)
from Maplin's. I was planning to put a few in a line at the top shining down over the outside of the switches and heater controls
--------------------------- Dash top
| / / / | | LED's in Holders
| | |
| | | Dials and switches | | | |
Something like this ....
Steve i think you must of been unlucky.If a LED is discribed as being 12v it can just be popped onto a 12v supply as it has the current limiting resistor in it. Ones that are described as "ifmax" 20 ma you will have to calculate the resistor required depending on the supply voltage. There are even LED plug in devices that have rectifier, regulator and the current limiting resistor all in.
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