400SE rear wheel bearings...
Discussion
Anyone out there in Wedge world changed their rear wheel bearings? I have the industrial socket and long lever and have read the bible
Also got a new bearing and 2 seals. Before I set about this
I would appreciate some first hand experience and tips before I start. Is this something I can do with basic tools and does it need pressing out?
Any advice guys
?
Chris
Also got a new bearing and 2 seals. Before I set about this
I would appreciate some first hand experience and tips before I start. Is this something I can do with basic tools and does it need pressing out? Any advice guys
? Chris
jack valiant said:
Anyone out there in Wedge world changed their rear wheel bearings? I have the industrial socket and long lever and have read the bible Also got a new bearing and 2 seals. Before I set about this
I would appreciate some first hand experience and tips before I start. Is this something I can do with basic tools and does it need pressing out?
Any advice guys?
Chris
I've seen it done without a press, and it's fairly brutal, both out and in. Far easier to take the hubs to a friendly garage with a press, and avoid the risk of damaging things. I've done the fronts no probs., but as you know, they are much smaller and therefore don't take as much force to move.
7.
I've done both alloy and steel carriers and the alloy one was by far the worst. A 400SE should have steel carriers, so once the circlip is out you'll probably be able to drive the old bearing out quite easily - there are cutouts provided for a drift.
The new bearing can be pressed back in using a vice: just make sure it starts absoluteley square otherwise it'll jam a couple of millimetres in and you'll have to get destructive to get it out. You can then use the old bearing's outer race as a spacer to help push the new bearing fully in to the housing.
If the wife's not around you could stick the carrier in the oven at 100 degrees for half an hour before you start: it'll make it expand slightly and make pushing the new bearing in a fair bit easier
The new bearing can be pressed back in using a vice: just make sure it starts absoluteley square otherwise it'll jam a couple of millimetres in and you'll have to get destructive to get it out. You can then use the old bearing's outer race as a spacer to help push the new bearing fully in to the housing.
If the wife's not around you could stick the carrier in the oven at 100 degrees for half an hour before you start: it'll make it expand slightly and make pushing the new bearing in a fair bit easier

I did mine a few years back and drifted the old out and the new in without problems. Just take your time and make sure it is absolutely clean and square. BTW I bought a reasonably priced 1/2 inch torque wrench from halfords that maxes out at just above the 220lbft needed for the hub nut. Clean the threads and apply a drop of threadlock but don't over do it or you'll have a right laugh trying to get it off next time. Trust me, been there done that.
If the bushes haven't been done recently you might want to get new ones and bolts while your at it. The damper bush can be a problem as some damper manufacturers don't sell them separate from the unit. I cut some bushes out of otherwise duff dampers and used them.
If the bushes haven't been done recently you might want to get new ones and bolts while your at it. The damper bush can be a problem as some damper manufacturers don't sell them separate from the unit. I cut some bushes out of otherwise duff dampers and used them.
number 7 said:
jack valiant said:
Anyone out there in Wedge world changed their rear wheel bearings? I have the industrial socket and long lever and have read the bible Also got a new bearing and 2 seals. Before I set about this
I would appreciate some first hand experience and tips before I start. Is this something I can do with basic tools and does it need pressing out?
Any advice guys?
Chris
I've seen it done without a press, and it's fairly brutal, both out and in. Far easier to take the hubs to a friendly garage with a press, and avoid the risk of damaging things. I've done the fronts no probs., but as you know, they are much smaller and therefore don't take as much force to move.
7.
Totally agree. It's impossible to say how easy it will be to get the new bearing in the housing. One side of my car only took 2 tonnes on a press the other side took nearly ten!!
Bashing the old ones out isn't a problem. I ground a bolster down to fit between the cutouts and hit it with a big hammer. The problem when fitting the new bearing is that you obviously can't take this approach otherwise it's only going to last 5 mins. Pay a garage a tenner for the use of their press. It will be money well spent in the long run.
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