Questions already.....
Discussion
Dicky, the solenoid that caused a non start, which one is it? I will replace that first, as it's become slightly hormonal on me.
Also, you say the rad needs recoring, is that due to it leaking? It seems ok to me at the moment.. Also, could anyone post a picture of the passenger side of their wedge, so I can see how the shelf that contains the ecu is secured, I've got some bits of trim but not sure how to fix them...
What's the normal running temperature of wedges?
Does anyone know if you can still get the transfer badges, ie the big TVR on the bonnet etc etc....if I decide to respray then I'll need some transfers.
Ta chaps.
I have answered some of the questions on the other thread dicky started.
Most of the issues have been posted on her before. The search button is a mine of information. Also download the 'Wedge epistles' on the Wedgepages, lots of good pointers there and it you mail me your address via email I will post you out the parts manual .PDF's a few electrical diagrams and a few other goodies.
MikeB
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk
>> Edited by mikeb on Wednesday 1st March 20:17
Most of the issues have been posted on her before. The search button is a mine of information. Also download the 'Wedge epistles' on the Wedgepages, lots of good pointers there and it you mail me your address via email I will post you out the parts manual .PDF's a few electrical diagrams and a few other goodies.
MikeB
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk
>> Edited by mikeb on Wednesday 1st March 20:17
silverback mike said:
Also, could anyone post a picture of the passenger side of their wedge, so I can see how the shelf that contains the ecu is secured,
Mine's got a couple of belt buckles sewed in place, does a fine job.
silverback mike said:
What's the normal running temperature of wedges?
My 350 used to run at about 90 but the 400 has a Kenlowe fan set up and it cuts in quite early so it runs cooler
Updated a few months later. Spot the difference
>> Edited by pwd95 on Wednesday 1st March 21:35
>> Edited by pwd95 on Wednesday 1st March 21:36
My 390 runs at 88 degrees.
ECU flap is held by a variety of methods depending on what the factory could find in the wheelie bin round the back of MFI... mine has a piece of Dexion shelving
though that could easily be an aftermarket mod.
However you do it, make sure you can undo it at the roadside in the tossing rain, as that's sure to be when you need to be in there.
ECU flap is held by a variety of methods depending on what the factory could find in the wheelie bin round the back of MFI... mine has a piece of Dexion shelving
though that could easily be an aftermarket mod. However you do it, make sure you can undo it at the roadside in the tossing rain, as that's sure to be when you need to be in there.
Isn't the ECU in the passenger footwell behind the carpet and the relays only behind the flap ?
My flap simply has a long self tapper holding it in place - I think the belt buckle / luggage strap is better.
If the relay board is loose and not screwed down (I found that the plastic turretts mine is supposed to be fixed to break easily) then I found that by screwing 4 metal eyes in the original fixings allows a couple of cable ties to be wrapped round the relay board securing it. I used ties which can be unclipped and re-used so it's easy to release it and pull it forward for those neccessary wiring hunts !
My flap simply has a long self tapper holding it in place - I think the belt buckle / luggage strap is better.
If the relay board is loose and not screwed down (I found that the plastic turretts mine is supposed to be fixed to break easily) then I found that by screwing 4 metal eyes in the original fixings allows a couple of cable ties to be wrapped round the relay board securing it. I used ties which can be unclipped and re-used so it's easy to release it and pull it forward for those neccessary wiring hunts !
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