Please Help!!!!!
Discussion
Hi Guys.
I Have a Wedge 350i
I have just changed my engine for a new one, i am having trouble setting it up.
First there was no spark new dizzy cap and extra bits have now fixed this.
Now it starts only when stone cold but pops and bangs as is over fueling. There is no way it idles and once stalled it dont want to no anymore. But will start again once cold.
Any help on mixture settings etc to get her running would be cool or any feedback will be cool as it has been of the road for a year. I am deperate to get my wedge fix again.
If there are any experts around Lancashire i would love to here about them.
Thanks in advance for any information Nik "Lancaster area Lancs"
I Have a Wedge 350i
I have just changed my engine for a new one, i am having trouble setting it up.
First there was no spark new dizzy cap and extra bits have now fixed this.
Now it starts only when stone cold but pops and bangs as is over fueling. There is no way it idles and once stalled it dont want to no anymore. But will start again once cold.
Any help on mixture settings etc to get her running would be cool or any feedback will be cool as it has been of the road for a year. I am deperate to get my wedge fix again.
If there are any experts around Lancashire i would love to here about them.
Thanks in advance for any information Nik "Lancaster area Lancs"
Quickest way to check the fp is to disconnect the cold start injector and fit a pressure gauge scaled about 0-5 Bar (or 0-50 psi would do) instead. You'd expect to see about 2.5 Bar.
However... if you've just done an engine swap you wouldn't expect the pressure to change UNLESS you swapped the fuel pressure regulator as well (the 'new' one could be duff) in which case refitting the original might cure it.
Another obscure thing is that you swapped the fuel send and return lines over when you reconnected them, it's easily done...
However... if you've just done an engine swap you wouldn't expect the pressure to change UNLESS you swapped the fuel pressure regulator as well (the 'new' one could be duff) in which case refitting the original might cure it.
Another obscure thing is that you swapped the fuel send and return lines over when you reconnected them, it's easily done...
if it is overfueling this can be caused by a faulty excess air valve not letting in extra air when cold starting to mix with the extra fuel. a quick check is to remove the pipe from the excess fuel valve where it goes into the plenum then half cover the open end of the tube going into the plenum and try to start. if the engine starts as it warms up cover more of the hole until engine is hot then it should run with hole completely blocked. i found this method of starting so much better than using the excess air valve that i have fitted a ball valve tap into the side of the plenum and adjust the extra air manually until engine is warm. this has resulted in much faster and cleaner warm up.
I had something like this once too. Turns out I had fitted the dizzy in the wrong position, ie, in the wrong firing order. Cylinder number 1 wasn't on its firing stroke when the dizzy sent the spark to that cylinder, so it meant a very erratic, bearly running car that emmited lots of black smoke and sounded like it was about to self destruct.
To cure, I whipped the left hand rocker cover off and rotated the engine until cylinder 1 was on its firing stroke. Then just installed the dizzy with the rotor arm pointing towards the necessary point in the cap. Ran fine after that! I know you've probably done this already, but thought I would mention it just in case...
Failing that, it does indeed sound like either the timing is out or a lack of fuel pressure. If its a flapper type system, then operate the flap to see if the pump runs with the ignition on. Perhaps take one of the pipes off to make sure a healthy flow is coming through.
To cure, I whipped the left hand rocker cover off and rotated the engine until cylinder 1 was on its firing stroke. Then just installed the dizzy with the rotor arm pointing towards the necessary point in the cap. Ran fine after that! I know you've probably done this already, but thought I would mention it just in case...
Failing that, it does indeed sound like either the timing is out or a lack of fuel pressure. If its a flapper type system, then operate the flap to see if the pump runs with the ignition on. Perhaps take one of the pipes off to make sure a healthy flow is coming through.
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