Low Oil Pressure---high blood pressure
Discussion
You may remember my chronicles of woes in changing the oil filter on my 2.8 (clue: it involves an oil bath and dropping the exhaust). So I bought and installed a remote oil filter. I unhooked one of the oil cooler lines at the cooler, cranked over the engine (HT lead unhooked) and got oil from the hose. That seemed to establish the direction of flow, so I plumbed: engine --> to filter-in/filter-out --> cooler --> engine. I even learned to make up those neat racer type alloy connectors over braided stainless hose.
However, when I start the motor, I get a small oil weep at the cooler connection (so it must have some pressure) but only minimal pressure on the gauge, plus an occasionally flicker of pressure. The oil in the sump is full and remains alarmingly clean, no other leaks.
How long should it take to refill the cooler and new filter and come up to normal pressure? Since this is a basic Ford, I doubt it needs a Vaseline pack and I've always gotten my pressure back on the gauge after a couple of seconds of running.
What else could I have messed up? It would seem that even if the filter/cooler loop was not flowing, I should have pressure at the engine. (I doubt I damaged the oil pump when I cranked it to establish the direction of flow as I only cranked it for a few seconds with a full sump.) Thanks Grady
However, when I start the motor, I get a small oil weep at the cooler connection (so it must have some pressure) but only minimal pressure on the gauge, plus an occasionally flicker of pressure. The oil in the sump is full and remains alarmingly clean, no other leaks.
How long should it take to refill the cooler and new filter and come up to normal pressure? Since this is a basic Ford, I doubt it needs a Vaseline pack and I've always gotten my pressure back on the gauge after a couple of seconds of running.
What else could I have messed up? It would seem that even if the filter/cooler loop was not flowing, I should have pressure at the engine. (I doubt I damaged the oil pump when I cranked it to establish the direction of flow as I only cranked it for a few seconds with a full sump.) Thanks Grady
Think that oil coolers should be thermostat controlled! Meaning that with the right temperature your system should work (=thermostat open). With thermostat closed: NO OIL FLOW through the cooler, and thus no oil going back into the engine from the cooler/filter up stream. I do hope I am wrong in my logic.
Rob
Rob
That's assuming one has an oil thermostat which I don't think I do... Progress tonight...
Loosened filter: full and contents under some pressure! = clog/blockage on downstream
Gauge/sender: Worked before, didn't disturb it and if I remove the lead, it jumps to far side = Not the gauge or sender
Clog in new work: Unplumbed link by link back to the inlet at the cooler. No clog = filter hooked up OK and no blockages in new/changed hoses/fittings.
Ran motor for a couple of seconds: Oil gushed out of hose = Pump OK
Plan for tomorrow: Replace blanking cap at old filter site with new filter and see what happens. I doubt the cooler is clogged unless it been that way forever??? It would be almost impossible to remove the return line at the engine w/o removing the engine.
Question: The blanking plate is 1/2" concaved and contemplated 2 hoses exiting it to/from the remote filter. I plugged those ports off. Could the plate have created some flow "block" whereby the oil can't circulate out one hole and in from the other at the inner sandwich plate for the cooler? (It would have to be a flow issues and not a physical block). Would a flat plate be better? I can't see inside the sandwich plate area w/o pulling the engine.
Time for a BP lowering adult beverage... G'Night all
>> Edited by grady on Tuesday 11th April 04:56
Loosened filter: full and contents under some pressure! = clog/blockage on downstream
Gauge/sender: Worked before, didn't disturb it and if I remove the lead, it jumps to far side = Not the gauge or sender
Clog in new work: Unplumbed link by link back to the inlet at the cooler. No clog = filter hooked up OK and no blockages in new/changed hoses/fittings.
Ran motor for a couple of seconds: Oil gushed out of hose = Pump OK
Plan for tomorrow: Replace blanking cap at old filter site with new filter and see what happens. I doubt the cooler is clogged unless it been that way forever??? It would be almost impossible to remove the return line at the engine w/o removing the engine.
Question: The blanking plate is 1/2" concaved and contemplated 2 hoses exiting it to/from the remote filter. I plugged those ports off. Could the plate have created some flow "block" whereby the oil can't circulate out one hole and in from the other at the inner sandwich plate for the cooler? (It would have to be a flow issues and not a physical block). Would a flat plate be better? I can't see inside the sandwich plate area w/o pulling the engine.
Time for a BP lowering adult beverage... G'Night all
>> Edited by grady on Tuesday 11th April 04:56
Grady,
I've just read this quickly,
It sounds like you could have given the oil a "bypass" at the blanking plate.
Or, I hate to suggest this, but did you reverse the hoses on the filter. (Some filters and some remote adapters have valves)
I'm sure you checked this, but thought I'd mention it.
Jeff
I've just read this quickly,
It sounds like you could have given the oil a "bypass" at the blanking plate.
Or, I hate to suggest this, but did you reverse the hoses on the filter. (Some filters and some remote adapters have valves)
I'm sure you checked this, but thought I'd mention it.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff,
Off to remove the blanking plate and see what happens....
>> Edited by grady on Tuesday 11th April 14:47
jeff m said:
Grady,
I've just read this quickly,
It sounds like you could have given the oil a "bypass" at the blanking plate.
I'm thinking you are correct but don't see how/whyThe new blanking plate sits outside of the the steel fitting that was sandwiched between the block and the filter and provided the ports for the cooler.
Or, I hate to suggest this, but did you reverse the hoses on the filter. (Some filters and some remote adapters have valves)
Unless they cast the in/out wrong on the filter mount, I don't think so. I have definitely established that 1) there is positive oil flow (I have a floor full to prove) and 2) it's flowing in the correct direction.
Jeff
Off to remove the blanking plate and see what happens....
>> Edited by grady on Tuesday 11th April 14:47
That was the problem... The blankety, blankety blanking plate.
Which way does the oil flow in a V-6? Out from the center into the filter and then back in around the center screw or the other way?
I'm thinking of making up - or finding a plate with a short loop b/c I still have a filter which requires I drop the exhaust to change!
Which way does the oil flow in a V-6? Out from the center into the filter and then back in around the center screw or the other way?
I'm thinking of making up - or finding a plate with a short loop b/c I still have a filter which requires I drop the exhaust to change!
Grady,
You need an adapter plate.
You'll probabley need to drop the exhaust once more to fit it.
These guys probably have one
www.cantonracingproducts.com/adapters/remote_filter.html
or maybe Team Blitz
A local "speed shop" should have 'em, but sometimes it's a complete kit, Canton will sell you just the plate, much cheaper.
Re the direction of flow, usually from the outer to inner, but, TVR it's anybodies guess!
What exhaust do you have?
Jeff
You need an adapter plate.
You'll probabley need to drop the exhaust once more to fit it.
These guys probably have one
www.cantonracingproducts.com/adapters/remote_filter.html
or maybe Team Blitz
A local "speed shop" should have 'em, but sometimes it's a complete kit, Canton will sell you just the plate, much cheaper.
Re the direction of flow, usually from the outer to inner, but, TVR it's anybodies guess!
What exhaust do you have?
Jeff
It was an adapter type, but I had to plug the ports b/c there wasn't room to fit the plumbing between the side of the block and the frame & passenger side cockpit plastic. Might have fit without the 1" oil cooler take-off. So I accidently converted it from an adaptor type to a blanking type. 
I thought my car was very stock and am surprised that no one else w/ a V-6 has the same filter changing problems. Was an oil cooler standard or did someone add it??? I also have UK(?) swept back - not US(?)swept forward - type exhaust manifolds so that may explain it???
Anyway, someone on the group (Marshall?) suggested (months ago) I use the cooler lines and for now it all seems to work. At least I have good pressure, the oil is circulating b/c the oil hoses/tubes get HOT and at least one honking filter is change-able w/o dismantling the car.
Plus I can now make stainless hose to AN-Aeroquip fittings
Note to self: Add this new life-skill to CV
I thought my car was very stock and am surprised that no one else w/ a V-6 has the same filter changing problems. Was an oil cooler standard or did someone add it??? I also have UK(?) swept back - not US(?)swept forward - type exhaust manifolds so that may explain it???
Anyway, someone on the group (Marshall?) suggested (months ago) I use the cooler lines and for now it all seems to work. At least I have good pressure, the oil is circulating b/c the oil hoses/tubes get HOT and at least one honking filter is change-able w/o dismantling the car.
Plus I can now make stainless hose to AN-Aeroquip fittings
Note to self: Add this new life-skill to CV
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