Brown Trouser Moment
Discussion
Bit of a lucky escape the other day chaps. 'Twas nice and sunny over in East Anglia, so I decided to give the wedge a run over to the coast. She was running absolutely fine, so on an empty stretch of private test track I opened her up to about 120 leptons.
As a roundabout approached, I backed off in plenty of time, always mindful of not relying on your brakes in an older car. It was a good job I did - when I prodded the brakes I found no pedal pressure at all! 
Fortunately, the road was fairly clear of traffic and I managed to get round the roundabout and coast to a halt and wait for a friendly recovery man!
To cut a long story short, the o/s/r brake is binding on very hard, and an extended run like that had boiled the fluid. So (and this is where your help comes in, fellow Wedgers) who can tell me a good place to get hold of a new rear caliper? And, whilst I'm at it, are there any worthwhile upgrades to the rear brakes?
As a roundabout approached, I backed off in plenty of time, always mindful of not relying on your brakes in an older car. It was a good job I did - when I prodded the brakes I found no pedal pressure at all! Fortunately, the road was fairly clear of traffic and I managed to get round the roundabout and coast to a halt and wait for a friendly recovery man! To cut a long story short, the o/s/r brake is binding on very hard, and an extended run like that had boiled the fluid. So (and this is where your help comes in, fellow Wedgers) who can tell me a good place to get hold of a new rear caliper? And, whilst I'm at it, are there any worthwhile upgrades to the rear brakes?
Glad you survived your moment you can always call at the dry cleaners, he is a simple upgrade DOT 5.1
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=256586&f=12&h=0
Had the same thing with my 350 was not even going fast but old fluid (I had just picked up the car) and a binding brake was a combination I dont want to repeat, go on give it a go.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=256586&f=12&h=0
Had the same thing with my 350 was not even going fast but old fluid (I had just picked up the car) and a binding brake was a combination I dont want to repeat, go on give it a go.
just because the brake is binding doesnt mean a new brake caliper. I have many times corrected a binding caliper. It is normally lack off use / corrosion that causes this. I would remove the brake pads and spray the piston with WD40 then leave it for a while to penetrate. Clean off the exposed area of the piston and inspect for corrosion. then using a g clamp or Mole grips or Pipe Pliers try to squeeze the piston back in to the caliper. Repeating this several times often releases the piston thus fixing the binding pad. If however you are not confident in doing this or fiddling with brakes then perhaps you could get some help.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
castorcamber said:
I would remove the brake pads and spray the piston with WD40 then leave it for a while to penetrate. Clean off the exposed area of the piston and inspect for corrosion. then using a g clamp or Mole grips or Pipe Pliers try to squeeze the piston back in to the caliper.
Ever tried this on the rear calipers on a Wedge? Sorry, shouldn't laugh, but they really are a bitch of a job to gat to and change. Since I originally did mine I have also had cause to drop the rear diff assembly and next time I need to do the rear calipers, that will be my preferred method.Let me get this right. You have a 20 year old car which on your own admission you bought as probably the cheapest wedge in the world, you drive at 120 mph, the brakes fail and you nearly kill yourself and you want to replace ONE caliper. That itself is cause for concern (I drive on the same roads )but for other people to suggest spraying things with WD40 or changing to dot 5 beggers belief. Change BOTH calipers and the fluid should be changed regularly not after the brakes fail, brake fluid absorbs water especially while it is parked in your damp garage all winter. Exchange fully reconditioned rear calipers are around £100 each tops and while you are at it change the handbrake mechanisms. If you dont know where to get them call or email me. Surely your life must be worth that much and if it isn't other road users are. You only get one go with brakes sTeVeR
thegamekeeper said:
Let me get this right. You have a 20 year old car which on your own admission you bought as probably the cheapest wedge in the world, you drive at 120 mph, the brakes fail and you nearly kill yourself and you want to replace ONE caliper. That itself is cause for concern (I drive on the same roads )but for other people to suggest spraying things with WD40 or changing to dot 5 beggers belief. Change BOTH calipers and the fluid should be changed regularly not after the brakes fail, brake fluid absorbs water especially while it is parked in your damp garage all winter. Exchange fully reconditioned rear calipers are around £100 each tops and while you are at it change the handbrake mechanisms. If you dont know where to get them call or email me. Surely your life must be worth that much and if it isn't other road users are. You only get one go with brakes sTeVeR
Bit harsh but
I have to agree 
Anything related to safety should be replaced in pairs - shocks, springs, brake pads etc.
thegamekeeper said:
but for other people to suggest changing to dot 5 beggers belief. sTeVeR
The change to 5.1 was NOT
suggested as a magic cure all, but as a worthwhile cost effective extra upgrade along with parts replacement when needed. and it BEGGERS BELIEF that you would belittle such a worthwhile and simple change . dArReN
Well you might find that the binding isn't down to the caliper at all - or at least not the pistons. Have a look at where the metal 'tabs' on the pads are retained by the pins. Quite often you'll get some rust build-up preventing the pads from moving freely back and forth. Also the pins can get a little rusty. Take out the pins, clean off the rust from the pins and the caliper area around them. Check that the pistons move freely. Reassemble.
Whenever working on the brakes ALWAYS press down on the brake pedal before you drive, to take up any slack in the pads (and also look underneath for leaks!).
Whenever working on the brakes ALWAYS press down on the brake pedal before you drive, to take up any slack in the pads (and also look underneath for leaks!).
I dont think there is any need to shout and get hot headed. I have never in my experience found changing to a different fluid will cure a rusty, sticking brake piston, if its worked for you in the past then I can only apologise for suggesting something as safe as replacing dangerous brake components. Your ONLY suggestion was dot 5.1 which in my opinion, and like any posting on here its merely an opinion, would in most cases not cure the problem.If you feel belittled by my suggestions please read my post again, I support your view on brake fluid be it dot 3, dot 4, dot 5.1 or silicon it needs to be changed like engine oil, at the recommended periodic intervals, but it is still my opinion that it will not cure a sticking piston.
Once again if I have belittled you I apologise but I am entitled to my opinion the same as everyone else. When I read your post I was in the middle of preparing information for a motoring journalist who is doing an article on maintanance or TVR Wedges for Practical Classics, I will give this some consideration but I still am not convinced that dot anything is the answer sTeVeR
Once again if I have belittled you I apologise but I am entitled to my opinion the same as everyone else. When I read your post I was in the middle of preparing information for a motoring journalist who is doing an article on maintanance or TVR Wedges for Practical Classics, I will give this some consideration but I still am not convinced that dot anything is the answer sTeVeR
As for mikeb 's response if they are corroded then new pistons and seal kits are available for around £20. As for the gamekeepers comment, then if you have more money than sense then carry on and replace both calipers, hey and if you run out of petrol replace the petrol tank as well.
As i stated in my first comment if you are not confident in doing this then try to get some help.
As i stated in my first comment if you are not confident in doing this then try to get some help.
As mentioned on an old thread some time ago, my car was doing just this last year. But not all the time.
We all drive high performance cars, and correct maintenance is appropriate. But so is driving within your limits, the prevailing conditions, with regard to other road users, AND be prepared.
When this was happening to me, I was able to pump the brakes rapidly and thus obtain a good braking response quickly. I can't recall having a proper thorough brown trouser moment as I was always able to cope with it and had room to spare. If you ('you' in the generic, not specific, sense) drive on the limit and leave braking to the ultimately last moment possible, then you are leaving yourself open to a nasty surprise. Which won't really be a surprise at all!
I don't put myself above all others in the driving stakes - I'm sure I've made some pretty bad maneouvres in the past. But as you get older, that self preservation trigger seems to become stronger, and I tend to associate lunatic drving more with Golf GTi and other hot and hotter hatches than real enthusiasts such as us with our lovely Wedges. Barring some exceptions, I have always found drivers of proper high performance cars to be more caring and more aware and alert on the road and not given to the madness that inhabits the minds of a plethora of hot hatch and old Sierra drivers.
The problem with my car? At the end of the day, I just had it fixed.
We all drive high performance cars, and correct maintenance is appropriate. But so is driving within your limits, the prevailing conditions, with regard to other road users, AND be prepared.
When this was happening to me, I was able to pump the brakes rapidly and thus obtain a good braking response quickly. I can't recall having a proper thorough brown trouser moment as I was always able to cope with it and had room to spare. If you ('you' in the generic, not specific, sense) drive on the limit and leave braking to the ultimately last moment possible, then you are leaving yourself open to a nasty surprise. Which won't really be a surprise at all!
I don't put myself above all others in the driving stakes - I'm sure I've made some pretty bad maneouvres in the past. But as you get older, that self preservation trigger seems to become stronger, and I tend to associate lunatic drving more with Golf GTi and other hot and hotter hatches than real enthusiasts such as us with our lovely Wedges. Barring some exceptions, I have always found drivers of proper high performance cars to be more caring and more aware and alert on the road and not given to the madness that inhabits the minds of a plethora of hot hatch and old Sierra drivers.
The problem with my car? At the end of the day, I just had it fixed.
thegamekeeper said:
I have never in my experience found changing to a different fluid will cure a rusty, sticking brake piston, if its worked for you in the past then I can only apologise for suggesting something as safe as replacing dangerous brake components. Your ONLY suggestion was dot 5.1 which in my opinion, and like any posting on here its merely an opinion, would in most cases not cure the problem. sTeVeR
I do not and would not suggest that a change of fluid would cure a rusty anything. Darksides last question was "any worthwhile upgrades ?" my suggestion was a response to that.
Just to clarify MY opinion. If you have a problem with any part of your braking system get the part replaced refurbed / repaired, in pairs is best for the sake of balance, afterall if one has failed the other wont be far behind. Change the fluid and use 5.1 you may as well, it may make no difference, but it just might, one day it may mean you stop in time.
There is no point in a car that will do 130 odd MPH if it wont stop when you want it to.
As for Deans comment on WD40. Alot of Wedges spend alot of time stood still in the garage. WD40 is a good way to free of things that may be stuck, Dean does not suggest that WD40 will repair rusty pistons.
If my comments have been misunderstood then I apologise, I was a little busy yesterday keeping our fleet of fourteen 32 tonne Concrete Mixers and eight 44 tonne artics maintained and up to the very exacting standards of the D.O.T
DaRrEn
>> Edited by badredwedge on Wednesday 12th April 16:55
oooooOOOOOOooooohhh indeed!
One other tip I have regarding driving style, I have taken to touching the brakes - just a quick dab - to make sure they 'are there' after a prolonged run, e.g. when coming off at a motorway slip road with a roundabout at the end. It gives me more confidence that I can brake late and hard some 200 yards later when I get to the roundabout.
One other tip I have regarding driving style, I have taken to touching the brakes - just a quick dab - to make sure they 'are there' after a prolonged run, e.g. when coming off at a motorway slip road with a roundabout at the end. It gives me more confidence that I can brake late and hard some 200 yards later when I get to the roundabout.
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