thought I'd fixed it

[uglymug]

Yo Guys - a couple of days ago I managed to get the new engine running, but had to stop it as the new core plug was leaking. Done that. As I have put new manifolds on I found that the wires going to the starter ( white/red + white/green ) had melted onto the manifold so repaired it. Made it longer to go around manifold. Also took a few nights to fabricate new exhaust.
The engine starts to run , but as soon as I turn back on the ignition switch and stop the cranking, the engine stops. Have tryed another ignition switch but no good. Tryed to check the steering modules diodes and main/fuel relays but they seem OK. Any ideas !!

[wedg1e]

Well it does sound like the main injectors aren't firing, just the cold start. Is the trigger wire from the ignition amp to the ECU OK? There's a bullet connector in the (white/black?) wire at the front l/h of the engine bay that drops to bits...

[uglymug]

Hi Ian, All the inj's are working and the CSI is disconnected. The ECU trigger is fine. It must be something to do with the cranking sequence.

[wedg1e]

Link out the fuel pump relay and see if it starts?

[uglymug]

How do you do that?

[wedg1e]

Idenify which relay it is for a start! The relay will probably have the terminals numbered so you can see which is which: poke a wire link into the socket between 30/51 and 87. That simulates the relay contacts closing and the pump should run as soon as you turn the ignition on.

[uglymug]

Hi Ian, I will try that now. But turn the ignition on, flick throttle and inj's click, push airflow meter and the pump runs. Is this saying that side of the pump is working OK tho?

[wedg1e]

uglymug said:

Hi Ian, I will try that now. But turn the ignition on, flick throttle and inj's click, push airflow meter and the pump runs. Is this saying that side of the pump is working OK tho?

Er.. it would suggest that, yes. I'd be more inclined to think it's something to do with the ignition, especially since you have the ballasted coil. It gets a bypass feed from the starter solenoid during cranking, which is why it starts when you turn the key, then when you release it there sould be another feed that passes through the resistor during normal running. If it isn't there then it'll die as you're seeing..
I don't have a cct diagram for the ballasted version here but it ought to be fairly simple...

[uglymug]

Hi Ian, does that mean the solenoid ( which has the white/green feed wire to it ) is cooked.

[Wedg1e]

uglymug said:

Hi Ian, does that mean the solenoid ( which has the white/green feed wire to it ) is cooked.

Hmmm. Could be, can you hang a multimeter off it and see what the output is?