Rear brake pad replacement...B&sta£ds!!!!!
Rear brake pad replacement...B&sta£ds!!!!!
Author
Discussion

matt-man

Original Poster:

2,667 posts

248 months

Tuesday 9th May 2006
quotequote all
Crikey....knew my rear pads were a little 'low' on the rear, so got some today and got working on it tonight!

WHAT A JOB! The pins did not want to come out! Half a can of plus Gas later (fantastic product if noone uses it to get out rusty bolts etc) and some shouting and screaming, me and dad managed to get them out! 2 hours to get the pads out on one side! got the other to look forward to now...

What a great example of how TVR obviously forgot to design the car to be worked on!

Are they always this bad????

blaineuk

2,615 posts

276 months

Tuesday 9th May 2006
quotequote all
did mine in less than an hour, but it looks like the brakes have been sorted in the past and the pins came out easily

jmorgan

36,010 posts

313 months

Tuesday 9th May 2006
quotequote all
Got the T shirt etc. Although I did drop the diff as it was going off for a referb so I have to say I cheated a bit. That was fun. Good idea though, assemble the mechanicals the drop the body on

wedg1e

27,035 posts

294 months

Wednesday 10th May 2006
quotequote all
Stop moaning: they're a bloody sight easier to work on, on the TVR, than they ever were on a Jaguar.

FrenchTVR

1,844 posts

296 months

Wednesday 10th May 2006
quotequote all
wedg1e said:
Stop moaning: they're a bloody sight easier to work on, on the TVR, than they ever were on a Jaguar.


Oh

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

271 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
What aboout the rears on a Rover P6? You have to sit there all afternoon winding the pistons back in by hand because they are on a ratcheted thread. And typically it's a quarter turn at a time, and it sometimes takes a minute to re-engage the tool on the piston! Grrr...

matt-man

Original Poster:

2,667 posts

248 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
well that does sound like a lot of fun!!!

Update on the brakes though...managed to get the pads out, but having trouble getting one of the pots in...

also, whats the minimum width the disk should be on the rear???

trackcar

6,453 posts

255 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
FrenchTVR said:
wedg1e said:
Stop moaning: they're a bloody sight easier to work on, on the TVR, than they ever were on a Jaguar.


Oh


chop a hole in the boot floor on those

badredwedge

3,450 posts

257 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
trackcar said:
FrenchTVR said:
wedg1e said:
Stop moaning: they're a bloody sight easier to work on, on the TVR, than they ever were on a Jaguar.


Oh


chop a hole in the boot floor on those

No need with alot of Jags. If its old enough to need rear shoes the boot floor will have rusted away.

matt-man

Original Poster:

2,667 posts

248 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
a big hole in the floor would make it a damn site easier!

Looking at the disks, they have kind of 'fins' i guess yo would call them on the outside of the disk....a couple of places have been chipped off slightly through the agro geting the pads out! Is this right?

I want to get her sorted and get out in the sun! cant see that happening too soon.....GAY!!

number 7

4,113 posts

291 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
matt-man said:
aLooking at the disks, they have kind of 'fins' i guess yo would call them on the outside of the disk....a couple of places have been chipped off slightly through the agro geting the pads out! Is this right?

I want to get her sorted and get out in the sun! cant see that happening too soon.....GAY!!


By fins do you mean the unworn outer edge of the disc? If so it doesn't matter ifc they get knocked off as it's not part of the swept area. Discs usually have the min. thickness stamped into the outer edge somewhere - whether it's legible because of corrosion is another matter.

Right, just checked an old rear disc, the good news is that it is marked for min.thickness, the bad news is that its illegible, and the worse news is that it's marked on the inner face around the bolt holes, so unreadable in situ. This worn one is 12mm thick (thin?). Try checking an XJ manual.

7.

matt-man

Original Poster:

2,667 posts

248 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
thanks for that 7.....my dads just come in and dropped into our local motorfactors who says that apparently the thickness is new is 13mm and shagged disks are 11 mm....

By fins i do mean the unswept edge so i could be lucky....lets hope so!

Im skint on the old motion lotion/beer tokens again! And its three weeks till payday

number 7

4,113 posts

291 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
matt-man said:
thanks for that 7.....my dads just come in and dropped into our local motorfactors who says that apparently the thickness is new is 13mm and shagged disks are 11 mm....

By fins i do mean the unswept edge so i could be lucky....lets hope so!

Im skint on the old motion lotion/beer tokens again! And its three weeks till payday


Although the discs themselves are not expensive, removing them involves taking off the main and handbrake calipers, which is a PITA. Consequently, some people leave it until they need to take the diff out, which makes the whole job much easier.

7.

wedg1e

27,035 posts

294 months

Thursday 11th May 2006
quotequote all
Chopping a hole in a Jag boot floor wouldn't help: the diff and brakes were mounted inside a pressed-steel subframe. The frame had hand-sized holes in it through which you were supposed to work on the brakes...

So the relatively open-plan chassis of a TVR is far preferable...