Door Hinge Bearings
Discussion
Has anyone tried this job? As I understand the bible you have to undo the fasteners on the door shut panel and the door pulls away leaving the hinge post exposed, so you can get at the nut on top of the hinge and then disassemble the hinge.It does not seem possible to undo the hinge post bolts. Has this been tried?
No wonder the doors drop as the bush wears out, they made this massive, solid hinge and then put in a miserable little nylon bush to take the load! Top and bottom bronze bushes with a grease point would be a "proper job" I have about 1/2 inch play at the doorlatch on the drivers door!Anyone tried to make a horseshoe shaped shim to be introduced where the bush flange should be, before it wore out? that could take up some play for a while
perhaps?
No wonder the doors drop as the bush wears out, they made this massive, solid hinge and then put in a miserable little nylon bush to take the load! Top and bottom bronze bushes with a grease point would be a "proper job" I have about 1/2 inch play at the doorlatch on the drivers door!Anyone tried to make a horseshoe shaped shim to be introduced where the bush flange should be, before it wore out? that could take up some play for a while
perhaps?
Just done the drivers side on my 350 and it's a pig.
You need to remove the window and it's runners so you can move the door shell along the frame about an inch otherwise you cannot pull out the hinge pin.
To remove the top hinge requires removal of the dash unless you have fingers like snipe nose pliers with the strength of Arnie. The bottom hinge is a lot easier with access by pulling the carpet and sound deadening back. Take lots of care when realigning the door as it's really easy to chip the paint on the leading edge of the door or the back of the front wing.
The "bearings" are indeed nylon bushes. I have a drawing for these if anyone wants to make some out of phosphor bronze etc, email me through my profile.
You need to remove the window and it's runners so you can move the door shell along the frame about an inch otherwise you cannot pull out the hinge pin.
To remove the top hinge requires removal of the dash unless you have fingers like snipe nose pliers with the strength of Arnie. The bottom hinge is a lot easier with access by pulling the carpet and sound deadening back. Take lots of care when realigning the door as it's really easy to chip the paint on the leading edge of the door or the back of the front wing.
The "bearings" are indeed nylon bushes. I have a drawing for these if anyone wants to make some out of phosphor bronze etc, email me through my profile.
IIRC if you remove the sill cover and jack the car up you can get the hinge pin out from the bottom.
On the S1 Tasmin it was possible to get the hinges off the bodyshell without TOO much grief as I recall; however it was nearly 10 years ago
when I did it... maybe it needs a ratchet spanner, I can't remember.
I can feel another 'Wedgeneering' product coming on...
On the S1 Tasmin it was possible to get the hinges off the bodyshell without TOO much grief as I recall; however it was nearly 10 years ago
when I did it... maybe it needs a ratchet spanner, I can't remember. I can feel another 'Wedgeneering' product coming on...
leorest said:
Cant remember where I heard this and can't vouch for it's truth but I heard the bearings were plastic bushes. If so they could easily be remanufactured using Nylon, Delrin etc.
Just searched TVRcarparts.com and found DOOR HINGE BUSH at £4.54
Hope that helps
Leo
Just searched TVRcarparts.com and found DOOR HINGE BUSH at £4.54
Hope that helps
Leo
If you use nylon, don't use petroleum-derived grease or oil as the nylon will swell and seize he bearing. Black Acetal would be my preferrence...
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