Leading link bushes
Discussion
Has anyone replaced these on a Wedge? If so any tips / advice would be appreciated.
I'm replacing the ARB mounting and drop link bushes at the mo, and figured I might as well sort the 'do-nuts' out as well (Wishbone bushes are OK).
I've checked the bible, and it's pretty vague on this..
Can it be done without splitting the bottom ball joint and track rod end from the hub carrier?
I've got the ARB off (had to drill the split pins though as they were solid!)
I'm replacing the ARB mounting and drop link bushes at the mo, and figured I might as well sort the 'do-nuts' out as well (Wishbone bushes are OK).
I've checked the bible, and it's pretty vague on this..
Can it be done without splitting the bottom ball joint and track rod end from the hub carrier?
I've got the ARB off (had to drill the split pins though as they were solid!)
The forward facing link is bolted to the bottom part of the front upright. Two bolts will undo it, and no need to touch the bottom balljoint. But to put it back as before, you either need to mark it before taking it off (distance from upright towards the front where the 'donuts'are located). Or get the wheelalignment setup afterwards. The donuts are best replaced by poly-type material as the original part looks like foam..... and not worth a penny.
Rob
Rob
The original Cortina rubbers were two different densities of rubber (and thus different colours) and worked best a certain way round - obviously compression and rebound damping differed. Polys will almost certainly change that characteristic, though if the rubbers were shot anyway it'll probably still be an improvement.
Last time I got some from Ford they were £silly and about a month's wait... and that was last century.
Last time I got some from Ford they were £silly and about a month's wait... and that was last century.
Finally got them off..
Split the track rod ends from the steering arms, and this gave me a little more room to play.
Just spoken with Richard Thorpe, and he's going to align the suspension for me on Friday (He said that it was a good job I'd only done the ARB and tie bars in Poly, as if I'd done the wishbones he'd advise not driving the car
. Apparently the wishbone bushes are metalistic, and poly is a downgrade!)
Split the track rod ends from the steering arms, and this gave me a little more room to play.
Just spoken with Richard Thorpe, and he's going to align the suspension for me on Friday (He said that it was a good job I'd only done the ARB and tie bars in Poly, as if I'd done the wishbones he'd advise not driving the car
. Apparently the wishbone bushes are metalistic, and poly is a downgrade!)convert said:
Finally got them off..
Split the track rod ends from the steering arms, and this gave me a little more room to play.
Just spoken with Richard Thorpe, and he's going to align the suspension for me on Friday (He said that it was a good job I'd only done the ARB and tie bars in Poly, as if I'd done the wishbones he'd advise not driving the car. Apparently the wishbone bushes are metalistic, and poly is a downgrade!)
Where can you get the metalistic ones? Split the track rod ends from the steering arms, and this gave me a little more room to play.
Just spoken with Richard Thorpe, and he's going to align the suspension for me on Friday (He said that it was a good job I'd only done the ARB and tie bars in Poly, as if I'd done the wishbones he'd advise not driving the car
. Apparently the wishbone bushes are metalistic, and poly is a downgrade!)Metalastik was the brand name; the bushes are known as 'bonded rubber' and several companies still make them, with availability through the likes of RS. Whether they stock any in the particular sizes you'd need for the TVR is another matter.
Ford specialists can still supply a few of them (Cortina, Granada).
Ford specialists can still supply a few of them (Cortina, Granada).
convert said:
Apparently the wishbone bushes are metalistic, and poly is a downgrade!)
Would like to know more of that. Replaced mine with polybushes: all of them, including the wishbones. Think that the poly ones you can get in several grades, and assume that these are equal or an upgrade to the original when bought as a kit (perhaps even of RT). The originals were still ok, by the way. At least the poly version I installed felt 'harder' then the original... And the polybushes were very hard to get in, the old ones came out without a big hassle. And the car feels ok (not worse, perhaps a bit better but just) after installation, and it is difficult to say due to what it improved as I replaced all balljoints (all lot less judder in the steering wheel) when doing the bushes.
Rob
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