problem with center console illumination
Discussion
hi. all my center console switches aren´t illuminated at night, but the lamp in the fibre-optic distributor is on. do the fibre-optics loose their ability to "transport" the light? i opened the disributor and placed a bright torch in front of the lenses, but still everything stays dark. are these fibre-optics and/or this distributor still available?
Is there any light visible at the ends of the black optic fibres when they are pulled out of the white plastic switch holders? On mine someone had fitted all the white plastic parts upside down so the light was shining into the wrong end of each switch. New parts are available from www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ They are off Rover SD1 cars.
If the fibres snap, the light generally won't jump the gap.
You can buy modern fibres to replace them with; also I believe that the original lamp was a high-brightness type. Most people fit any old 2W thing and then wonder why there's no illumination... I suspect you could probably fit a high-brightness MES-based LED cluster in its place and it'd (a) run cool and (b) never blow.
You can buy modern fibres to replace them with; also I believe that the original lamp was a high-brightness type. Most people fit any old 2W thing and then wonder why there's no illumination... I suspect you could probably fit a high-brightness MES-based LED cluster in its place and it'd (a) run cool and (b) never blow.
wedg1e said:
If the fibres snap, the light generally won't jump the gap.
You can buy modern fibres to replace them with; also I believe that the original lamp was a high-brightness type. Most people fit any old 2W thing and then wonder why there's no illumination... I suspect you could probably fit a high-brightness MES-based LED cluster in its place and it'd (a) run cool and (b) never blow.
..and (c) give out more than half a candle per fibreYou can buy modern fibres to replace them with; also I believe that the original lamp was a high-brightness type. Most people fit any old 2W thing and then wonder why there's no illumination... I suspect you could probably fit a high-brightness MES-based LED cluster in its place and it'd (a) run cool and (b) never blow.
Do you know what the wattage was on the correct bulbs?
dw350i said:
Correct bulb is 12volt 5 watt, mini golfball shape bulb.
I just consulted the SD1 Haynes book of lies and can confirm 5 Watts. I have thought about making a new one using modern technology fibres / optics / sources, but there are enough things above this on "the list" to prevent me ever doing it!Quote - "light in distributor is on, but no lights at end of fibre. opened the center console to check it. all white plastic parts are fitted, that the fibre shines from the top onto the switches."
The optic is only bright enough to light the letter box window where the switch name is. If the name is at the bottom of the switch - you need to turn the white plastic optic holder (on back the switch) to the bottom. The switch name will glow enough to see. The optic is not strong enough to light the whole switch from the top.
All parts SD1 also RR to circa 94
David
The optic is only bright enough to light the letter box window where the switch name is. If the name is at the bottom of the switch - you need to turn the white plastic optic holder (on back the switch) to the bottom. The switch name will glow enough to see. The optic is not strong enough to light the whole switch from the top.
All parts SD1 also RR to circa 94
David
I made some mods to my centre console lights today following ideas discussed on this topic. I ditched the original bulb setup and replaced it with a group of 4 white LED's. Maplins do a set of 4 automotive ones, which come with all the necessary resisters, wiring, holders etc for £4.99. Could have bought the parts cheaper I'm sure and then soldered them up myself, but for 5 quid I just decided to buy them ready made.
I took the original bulb holder off the bottom of the fiber optic distributer to start with. Then, I cut a round piece of plastic to insert into distributer, and drilled 4 holes in it for the LED's. Fitted them, used a glue gun to hold it in place and did some simple wiring. Took about 30 mins I guess.
The results were more than satisfactory. I took some before and after picture. The before pictures with the original bulb aren't worth showing as the switch lights could hardly be seen, but as you can see from the "after" picture, I now have lights!!! I know the picture is crap, but thats just because I was using a camera phone with a very dim torch to add a little ambient light.
Well worth the 5 quid in my opinion, and can always be put back to original since I didn't chop any original parts up.
I took the original bulb holder off the bottom of the fiber optic distributer to start with. Then, I cut a round piece of plastic to insert into distributer, and drilled 4 holes in it for the LED's. Fitted them, used a glue gun to hold it in place and did some simple wiring. Took about 30 mins I guess.
The results were more than satisfactory. I took some before and after picture. The before pictures with the original bulb aren't worth showing as the switch lights could hardly be seen, but as you can see from the "after" picture, I now have lights!!! I know the picture is crap, but thats just because I was using a camera phone with a very dim torch to add a little ambient light.
Well worth the 5 quid in my opinion, and can always be put back to original since I didn't chop any original parts up.
Well done that man! I was thinking of ditching the "distributor" as I was concerned with the difficulty of matching the LED light into the fibres. Though it adds a bit of wiring I was going to go for mounting small LEDs directly in the switch but your solution looks good!
BTW I can read some of the labelling on the heater controls, mine are just coloured bands giving no information on function, can you tell me the orientation meant for (LOL) demisting?
BTW I can read some of the labelling on the heater controls, mine are just coloured bands giving no information on function, can you tell me the orientation meant for (LOL) demisting?
leorest said:
Well done that man! I was thinking of ditching the "distributor" as I was concerned with the difficulty of matching the LED light into the fibres. Though it adds a bit of wiring I was going to go for mounting small LEDs directly in the switch but your solution looks good!
BTW I can read some of the labelling on the heater controls, mine are just coloured bands giving no information on function, can you tell me the orientation meant for (LOL) demisting?
BTW I can read some of the labelling on the heater controls, mine are just coloured bands giving no information on function, can you tell me the orientation meant for (LOL) demisting?
Lol, demisting indeed! I actually made the stickers myself, but based them on the originals. On my car, turning the right hand dial to the right fully position is the demist option. Turning it to the middle seems to be demist and central vents, and turning it to the left fully is off. Off position doesn't seem to do much since air still comes out (has to go somewhere I guess), but demist does seem to direct all the air to the windscreen.
I'm actually going to sort the demister out as one of my next jobs. I plan to install 5 or 6 powerful PC case fans into the underside of the demister rail behind the dashboard. The actual fan is a 3 speed unit, even though the switch only has 2 settings. I've put an additional toggle switch to flick between speed 2 and speed 3, so I'm going to wire up my PC fans so they come on during the speed 3 setting.
Hi. first i want to say thank you for all your replys. BUT:
The original system should have worked somehow when the cars had been new?....so i dont see any reason to start modifiying it. the only thing i asked (or i need) is: to bring back the ORIGINAL system in a acceptable working order.
i dont think that all rover sd1 and tvr-buyers would have had accepted a non-working -system when their cars had been new?
The original system should have worked somehow when the cars had been new?....so i dont see any reason to start modifiying it. the only thing i asked (or i need) is: to bring back the ORIGINAL system in a acceptable working order.
i dont think that all rover sd1 and tvr-buyers would have had accepted a non-working -system when their cars had been new?
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff