exhaust manifold
Discussion
the stainless manifold on my 390 has a small crack in it which ticks when cold at idle
does any one know if the 390 manifolds were stainless from new or is it an aftermarket thing ?
is there any thing i need to know before i take it off and tig repair it ?
how difficult is removal - it looks straightforward but advice from people who have done it before is always helpful
thanks in advance
does any one know if the 390 manifolds were stainless from new or is it an aftermarket thing ?
is there any thing i need to know before i take it off and tig repair it ?
how difficult is removal - it looks straightforward but advice from people who have done it before is always helpful
thanks in advance
When I took mine off, I had to remove the starter motor and AFM, and jack the engine up, rotating it on one mount with one bolt in (The opposite one to the manifold you are removing) so that it would clear the chassis. When you do up the O ring compensators (PITA) you need to loosen the centre box mounts, so it has some play, and do them up together, which on my stainless system leaves the whole lot under quite a bit of tension - no wonder they crack! (I have stainless manifolds and centre box from ACT, and rear section from RT ). I found that you need M8 aero lock nuts to stop the O ring compenstors working loose, nothing else seems to work (I didn't try wire locking the nuts).
-Jim
-Jim
They wouldn't have been s/s from new, that's for sure 
My car has a s/s system from the bellhousing backwards; the two headers have the last six inches in s/s but the 4-branches are in mild. And they corrode. They also ground out, which is why they have more patches than a Microsoft product...
My car has a s/s system from the bellhousing backwards; the two headers have the last six inches in s/s but the 4-branches are in mild. And they corrode. They also ground out, which is why they have more patches than a Microsoft product...
If it's the side with the longer pipe (i.e. the olive is the furthest back) you'll also need to have the car jacked up 9+ inches to get sufficient clearance underneath to remove/replace it.
If you can do this weld in situ then it'll save a lot of pain! Sometimes taking off a front wheel is all you need.
If you can do this weld in situ then it'll save a lot of pain! Sometimes taking off a front wheel is all you need.
thanks for the info guys
i can't weld it in situ unfortunately as i'm not the worlds greatest tig welder
and as such need to be sitting comfortably with the piece in front of me to avoid the old
jabbing the tungsten in the weld pool problem
my hands shake a tiny bit whilst holding the torch probably from too much vodka and lemonade
in my mispent yoof
if it can't be fixed mark at tower view says he might have another one kicking around
fortunately the rhs one was renewed last year
i can't weld it in situ unfortunately as i'm not the worlds greatest tig welder
and as such need to be sitting comfortably with the piece in front of me to avoid the old
jabbing the tungsten in the weld pool problem
my hands shake a tiny bit whilst holding the torch probably from too much vodka and lemonade
in my mispent yoof
if it can't be fixed mark at tower view says he might have another one kicking around
fortunately the rhs one was renewed last year
wedg1e said:
They wouldn't have been s/s from new, that's for sure
My car has a s/s system from the bellhousing backwards; the two headers have the last six inches in s/s but the 4-branches are in mild. And they corrode. They also ground out, which is why they have more patches than a Microsoft product...
My car has a s/s system from the bellhousing backwards; the two headers have the last six inches in s/s but the 4-branches are in mild. And they corrode. They also ground out, which is why they have more patches than a Microsoft product...
Mine's like a quilt from the W.I. too! Too much
down the country lanes. Seems worse since I put on a few pounds! 
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