Anyone have handle on Wedge Door Window Adjustment?
Discussion
I've been looking at how to adjust the door glass on my '85 280i. The problem I'm trying to solve is that the top front "corner" of the glass contacts the windshield frame. I really need to "rotate" the glass just a bit clockwise as you're facing the glass from the outside. One way I see to do this would be to slot the 4 bolts in the middle'ish of the door that secure the lift arms/scissors so I can rotate the arm location to change the attitude of the rail that holds the glass??? I've got a good understanding of the simple workings of this window system, I think, but I don't see an otherwise built-in facility for the adjustment want to make. I've worked on numerous other cars where there have been nifty provisions for all types of careful adjustment.
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
- SJ
'67 Lotus Elan S3
'76 TVR 2500M
'85 TVR 280i
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
- SJ
'67 Lotus Elan S3
'76 TVR 2500M
'85 TVR 280i
Edited by m2500tvr on Sunday 29th October 03:31
I elongated those four holes too, it doesn't give you much though because of that big cross frame. I would check the seating of the glass in it's holder channel as stated above if yours is that far out. You can get a bit of adj by moving the the vertical channels at the base of the door, 10mm bolts I think.
Re-check your height adj before slamming the door, I know someone that lost a window. It will need readjusting if you play with the other bits.
I assume your door adj is good? Check that first or you'll be doing it over.
Re-check your height adj before slamming the door, I know someone that lost a window. It will need readjusting if you play with the other bits.
I assume your door adj is good? Check that first or you'll be doing it over.
Adjusting the door is a two man job.
The door slides on the big metal bar that runs thro the middle of and exposes the hinge bolts.
You have to keep undoeing stuff till it slides back to expose the bolts. (the two plates at the trailing end of the door for a start)
Adjust in the direction you need push back door along the big metal bar then close gently to check. Not too difficult, you'll probably get it in two goes. Grease hinge, synthetic Grease with a pointy adapter.
The door slides on the big metal bar that runs thro the middle of and exposes the hinge bolts.
You have to keep undoeing stuff till it slides back to expose the bolts. (the two plates at the trailing end of the door for a start)
Adjust in the direction you need push back door along the big metal bar then close gently to check. Not too difficult, you'll probably get it in two goes. Grease hinge, synthetic Grease with a pointy adapter.
You need to lift or lower the motor (4 bolts)part to get any rotation of the window, any adjustment by rotating it will have no real effect on the window. The window rotation is the height difference between the motor mount bolts and the rear door channel. The problem is likely to be wear on the sliding bush attached to the other end of the scissor mechanism. The bottom one is quite thin and wears away in the rust build up in the runner. It would be easier to reposition the rear slider plate on the door up a bit to rotate the window position. Having stripped down a door this afternoon to change the motor I have realized that to get rid of all the play in it, the whole thing needs changing; new complete assemblies (inc motors) are only £23. Moving the glass around in the metal plate (assuming its pushed in flat)will have no effect as the scissor arms are not anchored to it, both ends simply slide in the channels.
Edited by dw350i on Sunday 29th October 16:20
Thanks to everyone for all the posts.
As a bit of background, it appears that the window glass had been replaced. When I bought the car there were some pieces of glass on the floor. Opening up the door, more glass chunks. The glass has been glued to the channel that the glass sits in. It does seem that a reasonable solution would be to reposition the glass in its rail/channel. I don't know how easy it would be to unglue the glass from the channel, but I could try. Anyone with ideas on freeing the glass from this adhesive?
Good point about door adjustment. I'm pretty familiar with what has to go on here. I think the door fit is good. It closes well and all the shut lines are good - at least as good as I think they're going to get - and the door edges fit flat to the body work. Again, I think fit is pretty good.
So rotating the motor won't help, it sounds like. But moving it up or down might help?
"The window rotation is the height difference between the motor mount bolts and the rear door channel. The problem is likely to be wear on the sliding bush attached to the other end of the scissor mechanism. The bottom one is quite thin and wears away in the rust build up in the runner. It would be easier to reposition the rear slider plate on the door up a bit to rotate the window position."
Interesting. Rear slider plate? That's the one rearward on the door held in place by two nuts? In this channel runs the scissor arm that connects from this rear slide channel to the upper, forward slide channel? On my car this rear, lower slide channel is indeed very rusty. I could easily imagine the plastic sliding bush having been abraded away by the rusty channel. So to "rotate" the glass I need to change the position of this rear, lower scissor slider?
New motors and scissors assemblies are available? Replacement might be a good idea. Where can I get new parts? I sould also use new channel packing, too. Oh, does anyone know where to get that chromed plastic finishing trim strip used on the outside of the door window opening?
- SJ
'67 Lotus Elan S3
'76 TVR 2500M
'85 TVR 280i
As a bit of background, it appears that the window glass had been replaced. When I bought the car there were some pieces of glass on the floor. Opening up the door, more glass chunks. The glass has been glued to the channel that the glass sits in. It does seem that a reasonable solution would be to reposition the glass in its rail/channel. I don't know how easy it would be to unglue the glass from the channel, but I could try. Anyone with ideas on freeing the glass from this adhesive?
Good point about door adjustment. I'm pretty familiar with what has to go on here. I think the door fit is good. It closes well and all the shut lines are good - at least as good as I think they're going to get - and the door edges fit flat to the body work. Again, I think fit is pretty good.
So rotating the motor won't help, it sounds like. But moving it up or down might help?
"The window rotation is the height difference between the motor mount bolts and the rear door channel. The problem is likely to be wear on the sliding bush attached to the other end of the scissor mechanism. The bottom one is quite thin and wears away in the rust build up in the runner. It would be easier to reposition the rear slider plate on the door up a bit to rotate the window position."
Interesting. Rear slider plate? That's the one rearward on the door held in place by two nuts? In this channel runs the scissor arm that connects from this rear slide channel to the upper, forward slide channel? On my car this rear, lower slide channel is indeed very rusty. I could easily imagine the plastic sliding bush having been abraded away by the rusty channel. So to "rotate" the glass I need to change the position of this rear, lower scissor slider?
New motors and scissors assemblies are available? Replacement might be a good idea. Where can I get new parts? I sould also use new channel packing, too. Oh, does anyone know where to get that chromed plastic finishing trim strip used on the outside of the door window opening?
- SJ
'67 Lotus Elan S3
'76 TVR 2500M
'85 TVR 280i
dw350i said:
I am taking the old mechanism round to the parts supplier monday to check that the ones they have for an SD1 are exactly the same. Will supply details when known.
These window bits are from the Rover SD1? That won't make it easy here in the US, but I've gotten used to doin' what I've gotta do with the 280i. Please let me know how it goes.
Thanks.
- SJ
Window mechanisms from www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/rover/sd1_india/electrical
are indeed the right ones. Fitted it, all angles correct and the window operation is perfect and now very smooth.
are indeed the right ones. Fitted it, all angles correct and the window operation is perfect and now very smooth.
hi. i´ve the same problem on 1 of my wedges, too.
1. the 4 fixing bolts of the lifting motor cannot me tightend well cause the fibreglass is worn. when i move down the window the complete motor-assembly moves/tilts.
2. my window was raplaced by former owner with an aftermarket brand (not tripple X). from the first view, it looks like the shape of this glass is differnt to the original one..and maybe thats the main problem.
1. the 4 fixing bolts of the lifting motor cannot me tightend well cause the fibreglass is worn. when i move down the window the complete motor-assembly moves/tilts.
2. my window was raplaced by former owner with an aftermarket brand (not tripple X). from the first view, it looks like the shape of this glass is differnt to the original one..and maybe thats the main problem.
dw350i said:
Window mechanisms from www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/rover/sd1_india/electrical
are indeed the right ones. Fitted it, all angles correct and the window operation is perfect and now very smooth.
are indeed the right ones. Fitted it, all angles correct and the window operation is perfect and now very smooth.
Great! Thanks. I'm going to order some sets (I should probably check in with Marshall first
). Looking through the Rimmer Bros. site, I saw some other bits that looked liked ones TVR may have sourced from Rover that I wasn't previously sure of the source: the clutch master and slave cylinders, the instrument fiber optic lamp unit. Are these bits, in fact, the ones used on the TVR Wedges? I can get the Girling clutch cylinders and rebuild kits in the US, but I can't get either the slave cylinders or rebuild kits for them here. I'd like to at least have a a few slave cylinder rebuild kits on hand. Any other Rover SD1-sourced bits I should order while I'm at it? Maybe another LH tail-lamp assembly. That SD1 parts find in India is interesting. Wow.
Now to find a good source for 2.8i Cologne, Granada, etc., parts.
- SJ
Edited by m2500tvr on Tuesday 31st October 04:19
Edited by m2500tvr on Tuesday 31st October 04:45
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