Discussion
I'm gathering parts for a Megasquirt conversion, but would like to retain the option of sticking the old one back in if it all goes pear shaped.
So, I'm after and old(knackered) ECU that I can rob the main connector off. This will enable me to make up a lead to go from my existing connection to my new ECU. Can anyone help?
Cheers
Allan
So, I'm after and old(knackered) ECU that I can rob the main connector off. This will enable me to make up a lead to go from my existing connection to my new ECU. Can anyone help?
Cheers
Allan
I have a sheet with which pins on the megasquirt fit the lucus connector if any use, still waiting to do it myself and luckily have an old efi that i can salvage the connectors from
I also thought about doing it so that it would be easily put back to original, but it seems too much hassle, and the efi system would probably benifit from a complete re wire from ecu to engine and sensors anyway, plus it's not too many connectors.
BTW if you look at the pin configurations of the lucas I think you can still use the afm as part of the system, and then do a further upgrade late to replace with an air temp switch ? (can't remember which sensor as in a pile of info somewhere)
In the end I think the better way would be to bin the flapper injectors and injector pack and get later hot wire injectors and rail readily available from later Rangies (or in my shed
) as these are more reliable and flow better. My intention is to go this way along with running an eddis setup to control the spark, but it is all time and money for what in my case would hopefully boost my output from 260 to 300 hp at fly - but why it's running reasonably well just don't have the heart to rip it all apart
I also thought about doing it so that it would be easily put back to original, but it seems too much hassle, and the efi system would probably benifit from a complete re wire from ecu to engine and sensors anyway, plus it's not too many connectors.
BTW if you look at the pin configurations of the lucas I think you can still use the afm as part of the system, and then do a further upgrade late to replace with an air temp switch ? (can't remember which sensor as in a pile of info somewhere)
In the end I think the better way would be to bin the flapper injectors and injector pack and get later hot wire injectors and rail readily available from later Rangies (or in my shed
) as these are more reliable and flow better. My intention is to go this way along with running an eddis setup to control the spark, but it is all time and money for what in my case would hopefully boost my output from 260 to 300 hp at fly - but why it's running reasonably well just don't have the heart to rip it all apart rev-erend said:
So are you saying that Megasquirt cannot supply a ECU plug for it's own ECU ?
MS provides it's own connector and wires ( which you then attach to your sensors / injectors), but the normal problem is connecting to existing systems. I believe there was someone in Aus trying to manufacture a connector lead for MS to Lucus, ( but you would still have to connect directly to the fuel pump relay and other odd connections)
Still think OMEX might be the best way in the long term, but more expensive
I believe there was someone in Aus trying to manufacture a connector lead for MS to Lucus, ( but you would still have to connect directly to the fuel pump relay and other odd connections)
This is what I was hoping to do. All I was looking for was the connection from the actuaul ECU box so that I could make up a crossover lead.
I plan to ditch the AFM as it is not required, air temp sensor somewhere undecided yet. If all goes according to plan then I'll sell the AFM and ECU as a matched pair.
The plan is to start with the dizzy, then convert to EDIS system.
This is what I was hoping to do. All I was looking for was the connection from the actuaul ECU box so that I could make up a crossover lead.
I plan to ditch the AFM as it is not required, air temp sensor somewhere undecided yet. If all goes according to plan then I'll sell the AFM and ECU as a matched pair.
The plan is to start with the dizzy, then convert to EDIS system.
Yeah that was how I was going to do it, stage by stage, get the fuelling working ,then bin the afm, then attack the ignition side
Good luck as you'll probably finish it way before me, as I need to rebush the whole suspension and replace rear shocks and refurb driveshafts first before throwing the extra power through it all.
Good luck as you'll probably finish it way before me, as I need to rebush the whole suspension and replace rear shocks and refurb driveshafts first before throwing the extra power through it all.
gsx600 said:
Yeah that was how I was going to do it, stage by stage, get the fuelling working ,then bin the afm, then attack the ignition side
Good luck as you'll probably finish it way before me, as I need to rebush the whole suspension and replace rear shocks and refurb driveshafts first before throwing the extra power through it all.
Good luck as you'll probably finish it way before me, as I need to rebush the whole suspension and replace rear shocks and refurb driveshafts first before throwing the extra power through it all.
With my knowledge of electronics(nil) I'd be better off doing the rebushing job you're away to start.
deetes said:
I believe there was someone in Aus trying to manufacture a connector lead for MS to Lucus, ( but you would still have to connect directly to the fuel pump relay and other odd connections)
That may have been me !
Work and family has kept me away from the car but I still intend to go the MS route. My intention was to make a DB37 to Lucas connector so as to keep all other wiring the same. It shouldn't be too difficult if you have the pin out connections of the Lucas ECU and also the MS connections. AFAIK the MS gives a fuel pump output as with the Lucas and if you want to re-use the temp sensor from the AFM it's possible, although easy enough to remove the AFM and fit an alternative. You should be able to unplug the Lucas loom and fit the home made interface loom to connect straight to the MS, aside from maybe a tacho wire there shouldn't be any other odd connections.
Probably all easier said than done - I'm still trying to get the oxygen sensor working (will be used to give feedback to the MS) but athe moment can't even get it to connect to the laptop to program it to drive a gauge !
jchase said:
like this?
Or you could do this which looks like the Lucas ECU frame and connector with the MS interfaced inside - doing it either of these ways at least gives peace of mind that you can revert back to the Lucas if all goes awry.
Edited by chunder on Monday 20th November 12:05
![/quote]Work and family has kept me away from the car but I still intend to go the MS route. My intention was to make a DB37 to Lucas connector so as to keep all other wiring the same. It shouldn't be too difficult if you have the pin out connections of the Lucas ECU and also the MS connections. AFAIK the MS gives a fuel pump output as with the Lucas and if you want to re-use the temp sensor from the AFM it's possible, although easy enough to remove the AFM and fit an alternative. You should be able to unplug the Lucas loom and fit the home made interface loom to connect straight to the MS, aside from maybe a tacho wire there shouldn't be any other odd connections.
Probably all easier said than done - I'm still trying to get the oxygen sensor working (will be used to give feedback to the MS) but athe moment can't even get it to connect to the laptop to program it to drive a gauge ![/quote]
The problem is I can't seem to find any old Lucas 4CU's to butcher for either of the solutions that have been suggested.
I've put an advert in the classifieds to see if I can get hold of something.
Anyway, thanks for the ideas. I suppose you'll be having good Wedge about weather down there just now.
Cheers
Allan
Probably all easier said than done - I'm still trying to get the oxygen sensor working (will be used to give feedback to the MS) but athe moment can't even get it to connect to the laptop to program it to drive a gauge ![/quote]
The problem is I can't seem to find any old Lucas 4CU's to butcher for either of the solutions that have been suggested.
I've put an advert in the classifieds to see if I can get hold of something.
Anyway, thanks for the ideas. I suppose you'll be having good Wedge about weather down there just now.
Cheers
Allan
Hi Chunder,
Indeed it is a MegaSquirt inside a 4CU box - well it would be if it fit. The 'squirt also needs a vacuum pipe from the plenum, as it is a speed-density system. You can configure the 'squirt to run off the AFM, but then you loose accurate engine load information, as you have to rely on the Throttle pot - which is not so good.
-Jim
Indeed it is a MegaSquirt inside a 4CU box - well it would be if it fit. The 'squirt also needs a vacuum pipe from the plenum, as it is a speed-density system. You can configure the 'squirt to run off the AFM, but then you loose accurate engine load information, as you have to rely on the Throttle pot - which is not so good.
-Jim
jchase said:
Hi Chunder,
Indeed it is a MegaSquirt inside a 4CU box - well it would be if it fit. The 'squirt also needs a vacuum pipe from the plenum, as it is a speed-density system. You can configure the 'squirt to run off the AFM, but then you loose accurate engine load information, as you have to rely on the Throttle pot - which is not so good.
-Jim
Indeed it is a MegaSquirt inside a 4CU box - well it would be if it fit. The 'squirt also needs a vacuum pipe from the plenum, as it is a speed-density system. You can configure the 'squirt to run off the AFM, but then you loose accurate engine load information, as you have to rely on the Throttle pot - which is not so good.
-Jim
Hi Jim, yes true, vac pipe also required, although I imagine it could be tee'd off the fuel pressure regulator so it's not a long run.
I received a replacement LC-1 yesterday so will fit this weekend and hopefully program to the AFR gauge. Assuming this proves that fuelling is all over the place I'll then go full steam ahead with the MS.
Indeedy, AFR guage is a must. Mine was indicating lean at higher speeds, and since the car is on the second engine I didn't want to chance anything! Its not so bad during the summer, but winter weather it goes very lean - I am guessing the temperature compensation is screwed up.
-Jim
-Jim
chunder said:
deetes said:
I suppose you'll be having good Wedge about weather down there just now.
Cheers
Allan
Cheers
Allan
No, it's too windy.
Plus with fuel now at 40 pence a litre for 98RON I have to be careful how often I go for a blast
I can remember, unfortunately, when it was that price for a gallon.
Edited by deetes on Tuesday 21st November 15:01
Just fitted the gauge and got the replacement LC-1 working.
Seems to be very accurate as the slightest movement of the flap bypass screw shows immediately. On a run it showed running fairly rich throughout the load and rev range. Cranked the AFM flap spring tighter two turns, then altered idle settings as revs rose considerably but the change when driving was immediate. Much more driveable at low speed and even under full power not leaning out. Actually noticeably quicker too - there's a roundabout I can come off and flor it in second and I know just where I normally hit 100 - this time I was late on the gas and still hit 100 and the change to 3rd 20 yards in front of the normal spot.
Still running slightly rich but I reckon one more spring notch will have it leaning out at the top of the range but will give it a go now that I can !
Also now back with a strange hiccup round 2500rpm in 2nd only - like fuel starvation. Gauge doesn't move - maybe it's too quick to register. Not the AFM or TPS as I have checked and reistance change is completely linear with no sudden jumps - maybe a ECU or timing thing as never happens any other gear or revs !
Obviously more work to do - the pleasures of wedge ownership.
Seems to be very accurate as the slightest movement of the flap bypass screw shows immediately. On a run it showed running fairly rich throughout the load and rev range. Cranked the AFM flap spring tighter two turns, then altered idle settings as revs rose considerably but the change when driving was immediate. Much more driveable at low speed and even under full power not leaning out. Actually noticeably quicker too - there's a roundabout I can come off and flor it in second and I know just where I normally hit 100 - this time I was late on the gas and still hit 100 and the change to 3rd 20 yards in front of the normal spot.
Still running slightly rich but I reckon one more spring notch will have it leaning out at the top of the range but will give it a go now that I can !
Also now back with a strange hiccup round 2500rpm in 2nd only - like fuel starvation. Gauge doesn't move - maybe it's too quick to register. Not the AFM or TPS as I have checked and reistance change is completely linear with no sudden jumps - maybe a ECU or timing thing as never happens any other gear or revs !
Obviously more work to do - the pleasures of wedge ownership.
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