Rear Brake Access
Discussion
A conversation with a club member a few years ago. A hole in the rear parcel shelf can be done but sealing up the hole with, for example, with an aluminum panel has to be a very secure job due to the pressures involved whilst driving. Re water ingress and all that.
Another roundtoit on my list due to awful garage access for what is a simple jobs for most people.
Another roundtoit on my list due to awful garage access for what is a simple jobs for most people.
Not sure the best to go on this one. My handbrake failed its MOT last time out and I'm thinking that rather do just the rear brakes go and do an overhaul on the whole lot - drop the rear out completely. Chopping out the boot was an idea to which I'll leave the chopping to access the rear diff mounts only.
Thanx guys for the feedback anyway..
Thanx guys for the feedback anyway..
GV said:
Not sure the best to go on this one. My handbrake failed its MOT last time out and I'm thinking that rather do just the rear brakes go and do an overhaul on the whole lot - drop the rear out completely. Chopping out the boot was an idea to which I'll leave the chopping to access the rear diff mounts only.
Thanx guys for the feedback anyway..
Thanx guys for the feedback anyway..
See previous posts re diff removal - if you are lucky there is no need for any holes to remove diff. but I guess it does make it easier.
Be sure you have a way of lowering the diff assy its a fair weight.
As above response hole for brake access would have to be in shelf or bulk head behind seats.
David
Edited by djc1001 on Sunday 19th November 10:21
Sorry guys I don't get this at all. I just don't see how chopping an access hole is going to help. It works on the old Jag's but not sure it will work on a Wedge. Aren't the 2 petrol tanks under the rear parcel shelf???
Personally I don't think it's worth it. I've removed the calipers and dropped the whole diff assembly and IMHO neither job is so bad that I would start cutting holes. I have drilled 2 holes in the boot to access the top diff mounts, but these are only about 25mm diameter, just enough to get a socket on the bolt. Cheers Steve
Personally I don't think it's worth it. I've removed the calipers and dropped the whole diff assembly and IMHO neither job is so bad that I would start cutting holes. I have drilled 2 holes in the boot to access the top diff mounts, but these are only about 25mm diameter, just enough to get a socket on the bolt. Cheers Steve
There is a lot of garages that make access holes in the boot parcel shelf and use a plate of alloy to cover it.
Ive got 2 holes in mine to access the bolts for the rear shocks and its easy to cover them up to seal them fron the wet, they are over 2inches in diam.
If you dont meed to take the diff out and you want to do the brakes and handbrake it can bo done.
My handbrake faild the mot last year, it was all the rust on the calliper hindge, ohh and the pads feel appart
Well its still not the best due to the silly system in the SEAC but it pulls up the weight required for the mot.
Cambelt
Ive got 2 holes in mine to access the bolts for the rear shocks and its easy to cover them up to seal them fron the wet, they are over 2inches in diam.
If you dont meed to take the diff out and you want to do the brakes and handbrake it can bo done.
My handbrake faild the mot last year, it was all the rust on the calliper hindge, ohh and the pads feel appart
Well its still not the best due to the silly system in the SEAC but it pulls up the weight required for the mot.
Cambelt
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